JustRamIt91

I'm trying to figure out where a good place to start would be. With the new, faster spinning turbo HE351CW. The waste gate will be wired shut, and aside from my right foot, i need more control over it. Where would i want to start? Timing is really advanced and fuel is turned up. Would i want to play with the afc or get a tighter spring? Fuel comes on way too fast and boost skyrockets quicker than a snap.

Thanks,
nick

Crossy's son

Stock fuel pin?

A combination of backing the starwheel as far as possible, along with backing the smoke screw out as far as possible will definely slow fuel rate down. You may even want to machine the inside of the AFC cap down so you can get the fuel pin up higher....

Tighter afc spring would definely help too.

wannadiesel

That turbo is NOT going to work for you with no waste gate. Get the waste gate working and stop farting around with the pump tuning.

JustRamIt91

Humm... what should i do about the linkage? Get some small universals or heim joints? Its at about a 45* angle right now just because of my charge set-up. I'll get pictures as soon as i find my camera.

I haven't done anything to the pump but im sure i need to do something.

JustRamIt91

wanna, any ideas on how to hook up a linkage?

wannadiesel

Can you post a pic of how it looks now?

JustRamIt91

wanna i tried to get some pictures, but every one i took (with my phone) wouldn't show what i was trying to express.

I took 92smokin blacky's idea of using a spring. I went to the HELP! section of pepboys and found a few springs laying on the floor, took those along with a throttle return spring and a package of different springs. Turns out the smaller, but tighter spring seems to be working well. It partially opens the waste gate until about 10psi and then holds it there until about 23 where it lets it loose and no matter how much fuel i throw at it with my right foot it seems to handle it all and doesn't smoke at all!!

Another thing i may consider is going to the heaviest spring and see how that performs, because lets face it if i can't get the pin to drop i won't be getting the benefits from this turbo.

Although after a few hole-shots and 50-80 acceleration cycles it does seem equal to if not a little faster than the old turbo but with LESS psi. Does this seem right? I assume thats what were going for here, less psi and egts but same power output because of the increased flow.

wannadiesel

Sounds like you are on the right track.

crossy

and the T clamps and beads on ends have allowed fittings to stay put?.

JustRamIt91

"when you do something right people may not notice that you've done anything at all" Crossy, it WORKED SOO well that it wasn't even a concern of mine!

Nope! Seems that the beads that you rolled into the u-bend worked so well that i'm getting by with just the worm clamps. The guy whose shop i goto hasn't been in all week, i wonder if he is ok... i like picking things up in person rather than ordering and waiting for a few days.

JustRamIt91

ok so i've put some more miles on the new turbo... i have a few questions/problems. Previously running my filtered waste oil and with current pump mods, i get a huge cloud of smoke with start-up and it smells of burnt oil. This being said, i hope the turbo isn't leaking oil. I haven't removed down pipe to inspect for oil leaks.

I know i need the drain gasket for the turbo, can't find a local cummins dealer. The drain oil leaks some, and it is splashing onto the down pipe and this may be the smell i am noticing.

Doing the scientific finger-swipe test on the end of the exhaust pipe yields a dirty, black finger. i think this is just soot because unburnt oil should be more liquid, or the heat is burning this oil and turning it into soot.

The spring controlled waste gate seems to be working well... not to my likeness but well none the less. Its too loud whit normal driving conditions. It seems the waste gate opens partially around 4-6 psi boost and doesn't spool as quick as when it was binding previously. It does, however stay within my preferred operating area of 10-25psi, i'd hope for 30 maybe by shortening the spring.

My question to you would be, How does drive pressure correlate to boost psi? If i was to use a variable spring combo(small and big) how would i want it to operate. Would i want a stiffer spring with more travel or a lesser spring with less travel?

thanks

pwrtripls1

Can you just install an adjustable J-hook on the waist gate? You can very easily fine tune your turbo with those. It holds the gate closed till there is enough drive pressure to push it open and over power the spring. If you want more boost just tighten the nut that increases spring load.

dzl_damon

where can on of those be had? Looks super simple for my HE351cw install even though I was going to make a bracket to mount my wastegate too and make it work off boost. This just looks to ridiculously simple. Other than your spool up will be slightly slower than a normal wastegate with a boost controller holding boost back even longer than normal.

pwrtripls1

Actualy it'll hold the flapper shut and spool as if the regular WG was hooked up. A regular WG works off of boost pressure to decide when to open. The j-hook works off drive pressure. Other than that they work the same.

Its usualy around $50 from Bully Dog. They were originaly designed for the 01-02 auto, but simple to install on most other model turbos.

JustRamIt91

thanks, it looks like a glorified setup that i have now. I'll have to look into making one of those :-)
I was thinking about getting some sort of S bend made from steel plate and use that to relocate the waste gate head. The cheap-o spring works ridiculously well for only costing $6 for the package.