eileeneh

Thanks Bob (he's my friend and special advisor!). It's true--North Mountain is not an easy mountain! Many people told me not to take my trailer (24-foot fifth wheel) but many others said to do it, so I went ahead because it was most effective for my overall plan to continue on rather than backtrack. This is the ONLY place where I actually had to stop because of the 280. In the other two locations I hit 280 just as I arrived at at the top, so I could keep going. This happened a total of 3 times out of 85 days, and only one time where I actually had to stop. But it may be worse in the West (I don't know yet--this was my first trip towing and I was in Maine, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia and Quebec. I still haven't had time to re-read the posts because I've been out working on my trailer all day! However, perhaps this little piece of info will help. . .

Thanks, Eileen

J BODY

Information is KING!!! that's a pretty good grade, but with the weight you're pulling i'm a bit surprised at the temp. I'm also still curious as to the mph and rpm you were at. I'm going off paper info on the 48re and I was told that you indeed do have lock up capability in MANUAL second, but I can't see 280 with lockup engaged. Anyone with a 48re out there that can verify this info?? If you do run into that situation again, try manual second and see if you get the rpm drop associated when lockup engages.

eileeneh

I'm rather certain I had it in manual 2nd. I normally do that when I am ascending, and I use it for descending too if necessary. I think I even put it in 1st sometimes (it was tough going up that mountain--but I tend to be "soft" about pushing the truck and giving it lots of fuel; it's my first diesel).

Eileen

ib516

You obviously have an aftermarket gauge installed in your truck. Since it is in the hot line going out of the converter to the cooler, you're seeing a normal spike in the fluid temp. You cannot compare your fluid temp max readings to others on the forum, since they may have the temp sensor mounted in a different location (in the pan for example). The pan mounted sensor would read a lower temp in the same situation where yours reads a high temp.

280* is hot, but unless the "Trans Temp" light comes on, and/or the "O/D OFF" lights up, I wouldn't stress too much. I would however, recommend a fluid change. Keep in mind there are two different types of fluid changes. The first, likely to be performed by a transmission shop, is called a "transmission service", or "fluid and filter change". This involves dropping the transmission pan, changing a panel type filter and refilling the transmission. This only changes about 1/3 of the fluid in the transmission. Cost should be $40-50.

The second type is a transmission "flush". This is the one that many of the quick lube places will try to sell you on. This involves hooking up a machine inline with the transmission cooler lines, and capturing the old fluid as it is pumped through the cooler lines by the normal action of the transmission circulating fluid, and replacing it with new fluid. This changes 100% of the transmission fluid, but does not change the filter inside the transmission. Cost is about $70-90.

I would recommend a "service" every 15,000 miles, and don't worry about the "flush".

In either case, ENSURE THAT ONLY ATF+4 FLUID IS PUT IN YOUR TRANSMISSION, NOTHING ELSE!

eileeneh

Thanks (I don't know your name). It costs $150 to have a transmission flush at a Dodge dealer! I don't know if other places use the Dodge transmission fluid, but I can check. I wasn't too thrilled about spending $150 so soon, but the "service" is not so bad.

Does this mean that every time my temp spikes to 280 I have to have a transmission "service"? My truck only has 10,000 miles now, and I probably won't be doing more than 10,000 per year, but that will include mountains normally (ie, higher temps). Does one EVER have to have the actual flush?

Thanks, Eileen

eileeneh

PS--what is the O/D lighting up? This must mean overdrive? I didn't know a light like that existed, and I don't know what it means.

Thanks, Eileen

J BODY

I pulled my pan two years ago when I bought my truck (26K) to take a look. Installed a filter, verified the bands were OK, and have only flushed the trans since. I'm coming up on 90k, so I might drop the pan this time. Both the flush and filter/pan debris inspect/band adjust have their own benefits.

ib516

In my 2002, there is a button on the end of the shift lever that locks out, or turns off the overdrive (O/D). There is a light on the imstrument panel that lights up to tell you that O/D is locked out or turned off.

It says in the manual that if the transmission gets too hot, it will shift from 4th to 3rd (from overdrive - 4th to drive - 3rd), and light up the O/D OFF light.

O/D is just another gear in the transmission that allows the engine to turn slower to maintain the same speed, in order to get better fuel economy. Think of it like riding a "10 speed" bike. O/D is like the gear where you pedal really slow, and the bike moves fast; but you couldn't climb a long hill in that gear without switching to a gear that allows you to pedal faster but you go slower, and you can climb that hill. Your trucks transmission is much the same, except it only has 4 gears. They are 1, 2, 3, and 4, sometimes referred to as 1, 2, D, and O/D, same thing. It would be much easier to understand if they all were like the system GM uses where the shifter has positions for 1, 2, 3, and D, with "D" being the overdrive position. To lockout overdrive, you simply move the gear selector to 3 instead of D. Dodge chose to have 1, 2, and D on the shifter, then have the OD ability as a separate switch (the button on end of shift lever).

Hope this helps!

ib516

No, every time you hit 280* you don't need a service, unless that temp is sustained for long periods. Every year would be a good idea though, especially if the vehicle (like yours) is used for pulling a trailer.

ATF+4 transmission fluid is synthetic, and is what comes in your truck from the factory. Synthetic oils are generally considered to be superior performers in extreme (like when it gets hot) conditions when compared to regular oil. Problem is, until very recently, DC (Diamler Chrysler) would not release the "rights" to ATF+4 so noone else but DC could legally manufacture ATF+4. That means if the transmission shop you get a service done at doesn't buy it from the Dodge dealer, they will use their own "universal" transmission fluid. I have read of Dodge trucks behaving strangely (shuddering, poor shift quality, etc.) if anything other than ATF+4 was added to them. Most "universal" automatic transmission fluid (ATF) is not synthetic, and doesn't meet the standards that ATF+4 does. ATF+4 isn't as cheap as regular universal ATF either.

eileeneh

Thanks everyone. I'm starting to understand some of this a little better. The language is still foreign to me, but it's getting clearer. I need to spend the winter trying to understand my truck a little better, I think. I'm going to look for a place to have the trans fluid changed with the correct fluid. I'm also putting a fuel preservative (Stabil--I couldn't find one by Lucas which was recommended by the person who put my gauges in) in the truck because I will drive my 16 year old Toyota during the winter. If anyone has any qualms about Stabil, please let me know. I can use less of it than the CarQuest brand (Stabil was recommended at NAPA).

Thanks, Eileen

Silverjay

My truck has 130k on it, 120k of whick I don't really know how it was treated. I have been thinking about putting a Gorened TC and VB in it before I start towing (6-8k trailer). Is this needed, or am I being overly concerned about the tranny? Would the new TC and VB effect the RPM range for OD and lockup?

JKM

I know the hill your talking about! The cobequid (i know i just spelled that wrong) pass is nothing to sniff at either!