Towing and Hauling / RV Discuss towing and hauling here. Share your tips and tricks. RV and camping discussion welcome.

Rear Suspension

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 09-26-2005 | 11:04 AM
  #1  
cartrl's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
From: Iowa
Rear Suspension

I currently have a 5 inch spacer between my rear axle and leaf springs. I tow a 5er and as it is now it tows at a nose up attitude. I found a service bulletin from Dodge that would lower the curb height of the truck but they are asking 800 dollars for it and the service department (local) can't give me a description of the parts but say it is a good part #. Does anyone know of a website or where I can find a shorter (possibly 4 inch) spacer and new u-bolts. Thanks.
Old 09-26-2005 | 04:38 PM
  #2  
NHDiesel's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 468
Likes: 0
From: Milan, New Hampshire
Check any 4x4 performance shop. Just look for blocks that are 2" lower than what you have now...that should level it out. Blocks and U-bolts should be under $100, and they are easy to install.

Jim
Old 09-28-2005 | 10:36 AM
  #3  
P Kennedy's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 615
Likes: 1
From: Ft. McMurray Alberta
So OK I am confused you state your truck or your trailer is nose up while towing, if the truck is nose up it won't solve the problem going to smaller axle blocks. If you go to shorter axle blocks to lower the trailer you may increase the angle of the truck and reduce weight off of the truck steering axle. You need to load the trailer but before lowering the landing gear measure your truck height unladen then raise landing gear and measure again. Measuring the upper 5th height to ground while loaded on truck, then measure with truck unhooked off trailer the height of upper 5th wheel to ground when trailer is level (springs equal distance from frame and equalizer level to frame). This will give you an accurate measurement of how much lower the trailer must be to trail level and I think you will find 2-3" is not enough that you will be trying to take out of the truck. PK
Old 09-28-2005 | 12:59 PM
  #4  
cartrl's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
From: Iowa
Thanks for the response. Its not the truck that is at nose up when trailer is hooked up its the front of the trailer. The height of the front of the truck is 4" lower than the height of the rear of the truck when hooked up. If I drop my hitch any more then I risk hitting the very back of the bed rail to the underside of the neck on 5th wheel when going over uneven terrain. If I raise the hitch then My front attitude of the 5th wheel is even worse.
The service bulletin also says that dropping the spacer by 1 7/8" will cause a drop in the curb height of the vehicle by several inches. TSB 02-001-01.
Old 09-28-2005 | 10:55 PM
  #5  
SuperGewl's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,915
Likes: 0
From: Beaverton, Oregon
What's the hitch weight of your fiver? Do you have the 5vr at it's lowest point on the axel tree? You have to be very careful about lowering the 5vr hitch becasue you need anminumu of 6 inches between the bottem of the 5vr and the top of the bed roails to help keep from hitting them.
Have you tried moving more of your 5vr load to the front to help bring down the back of the truck?
Old 09-28-2005 | 11:20 PM
  #6  
P Kennedy's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 615
Likes: 1
From: Ft. McMurray Alberta
I don't care what the service bulletin says, if you take 1 7/8" out of the rear axle spacers (basically 2") you will drop the truck 2" and your hitch will drop 2" unless a leaf out of the springs is also removed. That is also why I suggested the measurements and methods to check proper level of your trailer, they are designed despite many who don't care that the trailer and it chassis ride level within itself. This reduces wear, stress and gives a better ride to your trailer and the dealers don't care as they are more than too happy to take your money after purchase to help correct your problems. If your truck is a dually and you don't need the over loads to carry a lighter pin weight take them out and it will solve a lot of the problem and ride better. My buddy told me the same story and when we accurately checked his laden vs unladen measuements he was suprised the truck settled 3.75 inches with only 2100 lbs on the hitch. Pulled the over loads and it settled almost 6" with the same load but it also swayed a little more in the corners but not as much as my single wheel 3/4 ton. Sometimes 4 little blocks on the trailer are far more effective than messing with the truck suspension. If your truck is a 2 wheel drive dually it is engineered to ride slightly high on the back even under heavy load for the front end geometry for good alignmentand tire wear. PK
Old 09-29-2005 | 03:31 PM
  #7  
TRCM's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 698
Likes: 1
From: Newport News, VA
It'd be much safer and much cheaper to raise the trailer than to lower the truck.
Old 09-30-2005 | 11:13 AM
  #8  
Eskimo's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 839
Likes: 0
From: Central PA
Originally Posted by TRCM
It'd be much safer and much cheaper to raise the trailer than to lower the truck.
I seriously beg to differ on that one. How is raising the CoG of anything safer than lowering it?

I'd LOVE to drop the back of my truck about 2", it make it easier to get in & out of the bed.. Only thing stopping me is finding suitable blocks (3" wide STEEL), and no one being able to tell me the diameter of the centering pin in the springs, and if it attaches to the "lift" block. (If I'm gonna do it, the overloads are coming off, and the lower overload (the thick on on the bottom of the pack) is getting flipped over.

My wife gets carsick from the bouncing of the truck if it's lightly loaded or unloaded, and frankly, with my back, I'd prefer a smoother ride. I'd make up the load capacity with airbags.
Old 09-30-2005 | 02:04 PM
  #9  
rfcom's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
From: Lethbridge, AB
A couple answers

I couldn't find suitable blocks, so I made my own out of 3" square steel tube. The block needs a pin on one side and a hole on the other, just under 3/4" dia. IIRC. The overloads are removed too. If you have the means to cut and weld, it's a pretty easy job. You also need shorter U-bolts.

Jim
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mtnman006
3rd Gen High Performance and Accessories (5.9L Only)
24
09-08-2009 03:14 PM
SolidJunkMM
2nd Gen. Dodge Ram - No Drivetrain
3
11-01-2003 09:31 AM
dma251
HELP!
3
06-19-2003 04:17 AM
General Diesel Discussion
3
02-19-2003 01:35 PM
spots
Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only
23
02-13-2003 10:58 AM



Quick Reply: Rear Suspension



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:46 PM.