Pyro Guage Won't work
09-08-2005, 08:02 AM
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Pyro Guage Won't work
My EGT gauge stopped working and I don't why. I'm not sure where it goes to. Is it before the turbo? I have no instructions on how it hooks up.
09-08-2005, 01:59 PM
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Try this site they will point you in the right direction.
http://www.piersdiesel.com/techpyrolnstall.htm
89-02 Dodge RAM
Pyrometer Installation Tips
No, this is not complete instructions on how to install gauges. However a common question is where to drill and tap for the pyrometer probe installation. First the exhaust manifold is a dual passage design with 3 cylinders feeding into a front and rear exhaust runner. A vertical wall separates the two exhaust runners. Thus the mounting hole cannot be drilled down the center of the manifold. It must be drilled in the center of either the front or rear exhaust runner. PDR recommeds using the rear exhaust runner.
An important part of the process will be removing all of the drill and tap shavings from within the manifold. There are a number of ways to do this. The most effective but also the most time consuming way is to remove the turbo for easy access into the inside of the manifold. Other tricks to remove shavings without removing the turbo include putting vasoline on the drill bit so the shavings stick to it, versus falling inside. Use a small rubber hose with make-shift attachment to a shop vac and suck them out. And use a small mechanics magnet that fits down the hole, and repeatedly remove shavings until the magnet comes out clean. Use as many tricks as you can.
Finally study the pictures below before starting to verify you have marked the proper location to drill and proper depth to tab for the pipe fittings. These are very important.
Locate a point 2 inches from the turbo mounting flange in the center of the manifold.
Move forward or rearward 5/8 inch and use a center punch to mark for drilling.
Start by drilling a small pilot hole
Drill a 11/32 inch hole if the probe uses a 1/8" NPT fitting
Drill a 7/16 inch hole if the probe uses a 1/4" NPT fitting
Tap hole to the proper depth using the with proper size tapered tap for your probe.
98, 24v, Ram 3500, SB Con O Fe Clutch, New NV4500 5 spd trans w all spline shaft, Edge Ez, all Iss Pro Gauges ,F.A.S.S, Air Raid Mass Air Flo Filter,Mod Air Box, L.E.D tail lamps.Jake brake, Western Hauler bed, 40gal aux fuel tank, low profile Polished aluminum tool box,25k Air Ride 5th wheel hitch,4" out pipe,Sirius satt radio,backup camera w 5"color monitor,freeze you out a/c and 3000 watts of Alpine Stereo.(Oh.... and ear plugs)and pulls a 42' Mobile Scout 412 SUT containing(Not at the same time) 02 Honda TRX250X,99 Yamaha 350 Warrior,88 Honda TRX250R,89 Honda TRX250R,97 Kawasaki KLF400 4x4 Bayou and a Dog. Giddy up! (first VP still hangin in there,On F.A.S.S. after lp departed the scene 4/ 05 *RIP*).131,000Miles & Going!
http://www.piersdiesel.com/techpyrolnstall.htm
89-02 Dodge RAM
Pyrometer Installation Tips
No, this is not complete instructions on how to install gauges. However a common question is where to drill and tap for the pyrometer probe installation. First the exhaust manifold is a dual passage design with 3 cylinders feeding into a front and rear exhaust runner. A vertical wall separates the two exhaust runners. Thus the mounting hole cannot be drilled down the center of the manifold. It must be drilled in the center of either the front or rear exhaust runner. PDR recommeds using the rear exhaust runner.
An important part of the process will be removing all of the drill and tap shavings from within the manifold. There are a number of ways to do this. The most effective but also the most time consuming way is to remove the turbo for easy access into the inside of the manifold. Other tricks to remove shavings without removing the turbo include putting vasoline on the drill bit so the shavings stick to it, versus falling inside. Use a small rubber hose with make-shift attachment to a shop vac and suck them out. And use a small mechanics magnet that fits down the hole, and repeatedly remove shavings until the magnet comes out clean. Use as many tricks as you can.
Finally study the pictures below before starting to verify you have marked the proper location to drill and proper depth to tab for the pipe fittings. These are very important.
Locate a point 2 inches from the turbo mounting flange in the center of the manifold.
Move forward or rearward 5/8 inch and use a center punch to mark for drilling.
Start by drilling a small pilot hole
Drill a 11/32 inch hole if the probe uses a 1/8" NPT fitting
Drill a 7/16 inch hole if the probe uses a 1/4" NPT fitting
Tap hole to the proper depth using the with proper size tapered tap for your probe.
98, 24v, Ram 3500, SB Con O Fe Clutch, New NV4500 5 spd trans w all spline shaft, Edge Ez, all Iss Pro Gauges ,F.A.S.S, Air Raid Mass Air Flo Filter,Mod Air Box, L.E.D tail lamps.Jake brake, Western Hauler bed, 40gal aux fuel tank, low profile Polished aluminum tool box,25k Air Ride 5th wheel hitch,4" out pipe,Sirius satt radio,backup camera w 5"color monitor,freeze you out a/c and 3000 watts of Alpine Stereo.(Oh.... and ear plugs)and pulls a 42' Mobile Scout 412 SUT containing(Not at the same time) 02 Honda TRX250X,99 Yamaha 350 Warrior,88 Honda TRX250R,89 Honda TRX250R,97 Kawasaki KLF400 4x4 Bayou and a Dog. Giddy up! (first VP still hangin in there,On F.A.S.S. after lp departed the scene 4/ 05 *RIP*).131,000Miles & Going!
09-09-2005, 04:28 AM
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Look at your exhaust manifold and follow it down to the turbo. Somewhere down there will be a fitting bolted right into it with a thick wire coming out of it. That's your probe. Your problem is probably the power wire that powers the guage. It will not work without it. I'd start by finding the power wire and make sure it hasn't come loose or broken or even blown a fuse....
09-11-2005, 05:52 PM
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I traced the 2 wires and it runs from the guage to the exhaust downpipe where theres a connection. 2 wires from the guage go into connector. probe comes out and is tapped into the exhaust downpipe. There is no power wire. Don't know what to do
09-11-2005, 08:03 PM
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Hmmm. I was sure there was a power wire to my guage. Maybe I'm thinking of one of the other guages. 
My next step would be to remove the probe and make sure it has not broken off. Other than that I'd say trace the probe wire carefully and look for kinks or breaks and if that all looks fine then your guage may have pooped out on you....
My next step would be to remove the probe and make sure it has not broken off. Other than that I'd say trace the probe wire carefully and look for kinks or breaks and if that all looks fine then your guage may have pooped out on you....
09-13-2005, 08:12 AM
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I guess the probe or the connector was tweaked or something I don't know/ I fooled around with it and now the guage works. With that fixed and the probe going in to the exhaust downpipe, what readings should I be looking for?
09-13-2005, 01:10 PM
#7
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Dodgezilla is right there should be six wires going into the back of the gauge if it is an Autometer. I can't say for the others.
Two go to the pyrometer in the exhaust.
One goes to a switched power supply, preferably on the ign. side of the ignition switch.
One goes to the dash lights so the light in the gauge is dimmable and two are grounds.
The ground for the power to the gauge needs to go directly to the engine block. The ground for the light can go anywhere convenient under the dash. All connections are polarity sensitive except the light. Another words + to + and - to - or ground. If the gauge is Autometer they have a very helpful web site.
Two go to the pyrometer in the exhaust.
One goes to a switched power supply, preferably on the ign. side of the ignition switch.
One goes to the dash lights so the light in the gauge is dimmable and two are grounds.
The ground for the power to the gauge needs to go directly to the engine block. The ground for the light can go anywhere convenient under the dash. All connections are polarity sensitive except the light. Another words + to + and - to - or ground. If the gauge is Autometer they have a very helpful web site.
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