[quote author=Bart Timothy link=board=11;threadid=15548;start=0#146494 date=1054920369]<br><br>A 300W inverter, running at full rated output, will be drawing at least 25 amps - about the most you could ever expect a cigarette lighter plug to handle, let alone the associated circuitry with it. I'd say any application requiring more than 200 watts continuous operation should reqire the inverter wired directly to the battery.<br>[/quote]<br><br>My experience with the cigeratte lighter on the Dodge is that it will accept less power than that. The power outlet, is fused at 20 amp and at one point I used a little heater with a 20 amp draw on it. When it went out I thought it was just the fuse. It was but also the plug burned up and I had to replace that also. Not a fun job, what a pain. It will not carry a heavy load and the fuse will not protect it. The power/lighter sockets are for light loads only.

 

HaulininDixie,<br><br>Cigar(ette) lighter lead wire is not heavy, about 12 ga. which will handle the current for the lighter short term. As it draws current the wire heats and limits the current to lighter. This is OK for a lighter. When you try to draw the same amount of current using an inverter, it tends to crash. Also remember 20 amps x 12 volts = 240 watts. A 20 amp, 12 volt line will not run a 300 watt inverter. Also inverters are not 100 % efficient, some of 12 volt amps is converted into heat. <br><br>In my previous TT, I ran 10 ga wire directly from the battery to an outlet at the dinette. This gave an output close to 300 watts. It did not produce the surge wattage of 500 watts.

 

Sierra Phil, why would the negative lead be smaller than the positive? Unless it is considerably shorter? But if both leads are the same length does it not follow that both should be the same diameter?

 

Mexstan,<br><br>The ground is allowed to be one gauge size smaller than the Hot wire in direct current. The appliance has converted energy to another form hence the voltage drop. The appliance, in this case the inverter has resistance, once electrons are past the resistance they move freely back to the battery. Prior to the resistance they are pushed by EMF, volts. <br><br>If you check many electrical appliances have a smaller ground wire than the lead wire(s)<br><br>Go to Wally World check out their battery cables. The red positive 5ft is #2 AWG, the black negative 5ft is #4 AWG.

 

[quote author=Sierra Phil link=board=11;threadid=15548;start=15#146624 date=1054940329]<br>HaulininDixie,<br><br>Cigar(ette) lighter lead wire is not heavy, about 12 ga. which will handle the current for the lighter short term. As it draws current the wire heats and limits the current to lighter. This is OK for a lighter. When you try to draw the same amount of current using an inverter, it tends to crash. Also remember 20 amps x 12 volts = 240 watts. A 20 amp, 12 volt line will not run a 300 watt inverter. Also inverters are not 100 % efficient, some of 12 volt amps is converted into heat. <br><br>In my previous TT, I ran 10 ga wire directly from the battery to an outlet at the dinette. This gave an output close to 300 watts. It did not produce the surge wattage of 500 watts.<br>[/quote]<br><br>Actually that was what I was telling the other gentleman, that it would not even carry the 20 amps that the owners manual says it will, let alone the 25 amps that he was trying to use. The owners manual specs the lower outlet at 20 amps and it is built different than the upper outlet which is the cigaretter lighter. Another shortcoming is the brake circuit for the trailer. <br><br>Several manuals state that the '99 has the 30 amp system for three axles but the system on mine is not. I have been getting away with a problem that must be rewired with a heavier feed wire. Just discovered this problem a few days ago while working on something else. This is probably why my system always runs a couple of amps short of what Jorden says it should read.<br><br>I was in St. Lewis a few weeks ago and my heater core was leaking so I disconnected it. This time of year it should not have been a problem but the temp went to 21 degrees, a little cold returning to Alabama. I picked up a small heater for my feet and bundeled up good. It all went well until the 20 amp circuit went out. Would I do it again? You bet, it was cold :'(

 

I've noticed that at camping world you have to pay the $19.95 per year membership to enjoy the privilage of paying retail.

 

SP, your explanation makes sense. Thanks. Guess I was trying to apply AC logic to a DC circuit.

 

[quote author=duner link=board=11;threadid=15548;start=15#146687 date=1054951552]<br>I've noticed that at camping world you have to pay the $19.95 per year membership to enjoy the privilage of paying retail.<br>[/quote]<br><br>Yeah... isn't that great! :

 

President's Club price is not the retail price. The retail price is clearly posted and larger than smaller P.C. Price. The 10% discount off posted retail price P.C. Members receive is not all members receive for their annual dues. There are special catalogs sent to P.C. members at least once per month. These have additional specials P.C. Only. Coupons for free shipping, also for an additional 10% off on purchases. <br><br>The individual must decide for themselves whether the savings during the year will exceed the membership dues of $14.95 available to continuing members.<br><br>For those of us who find it convenient to use their on-line store due to our lack of full services RV stores within a reasonable distance, find the membership worthwhile.

 

Can you say bees nest.....<br><br>&quot;A 20 amp, 12 volt line will not run a 300 watt inverter.&quot;<br><br>The cigarette light or the power plug WILL power the 300 watt inverter. I do not plan to run 300 Watt maximum all the time. The playstation console is 7w. The TV has run in the cigarette light for over 6 months with no problems. Before this truck; I ran the TV through the cigarette lighter in my father-in-law's Durango all the way to Disney , about a 14 hour trip and no problems. The inverter will arrive today so I will post back with my success or failures.<br><br>Tim

 

Anybody have any experience with using either a modified sine wave versus a pure sign wave inverter for power tools? How about using a modified sine wave for sound systems? Would this produce a hum?
Trying to descide which one to purchase. Price wise would like the modifed sine wave but will go for the pure sign wave if it will prevent problems down the road.
Any brands to avoid?

 

Mexstan, being a HAM, your probably familiar with the debate on switching vs non-switching PS's. Its the same thing. Some guys swear by one and not the other. Heck, I've got one of each in the shack and don't have any problems with either one, other than the 20A ASTRON does a much better job holding the desk down than does the higher capacity ICOM. <br><br>I don't have any recommendations on manufacturers, but would think that at least with inverters, you get what you pay for. Last time I bought an audio amp, I did the old weight test. At least to my simple thinking, better amps weigh more. Similar thought process led to the the ASTRON, but I won't take that one on a plane with me.<br><br>Don't forget that when using those higher power inverters, you should have some extra batteries, or leave the engine running to avoid draining the RAMs batteries.

 

[quote author=bulabula link=board=11;threadid=15548;start=15#147569 date=1055209269]<br>other than the 20A ASTRON does a much better job holding the desk down than does the higher capacity ICOM. <br><br>[/quote]<br><br>You should see my 170 amp Astron hold the desk down ;D

 

I got the inverter installed and all works well. There is a message in fine print (who ever reads fine print?) that says if the inverter is to be used with over 240W to buy the cigarette lighter to battery adapter and straight wire it.......Its kinda nice that Tripp-Lite at least acknowledges this.<br><br>All in all my kids never want to get out of the truck now!! I am so looking forward to vacation.<br><br>Thanks all,<br><br>Tim

 

bulabula, yes I am familiar with both kinds of power supplies. Presently using a switching PS for two reasons. First, the price was a lot cheaper and second, it is about 1000 lbs lighter. (ok, I so exagerate a little) My rig does not seem to know the difference. So am leaning towards the cheaper inverter (not pure sine wave) but even in those the prices for a 1000-1500 watt seem to vary from about $350 to $1400.