P3 tells me I have no trailer brakes in the rain
#1
P3 tells me I have no trailer brakes in the rain
Any body have any advice on what to look for? Everytime I drive in the rain or real wet conditions my P3 tells me I have no trailer brakes even when I'm not pulling a trailer. I'm guessing water is getting in the plug or in the wiring under the bed. Anyone ever have this problem? Not real sure what to look for.
Thanks
Thanks
#2
Eli, do you still have the factory plug in the bumper? Did you add any others?
I'd look for any place where something may have tapped into the trailer plug harness heading to the rear of the truck. I had similar problems on the back of my 6 pin plug. Some water got in and started to corrode the pins on the back side, whenever it would get wet, it would make just enough contact to light up my trailer brake controller.
If it's all factory wiring, you're just going to have to chase that harness looking for bad spots.
I'd look for any place where something may have tapped into the trailer plug harness heading to the rear of the truck. I had similar problems on the back of my 6 pin plug. Some water got in and started to corrode the pins on the back side, whenever it would get wet, it would make just enough contact to light up my trailer brake controller.
If it's all factory wiring, you're just going to have to chase that harness looking for bad spots.
#3
Eli, do you still have the factory plug in the bumper? Did you add any others?
I'd look for any place where something may have tapped into the trailer plug harness heading to the rear of the truck. I had similar problems on the back of my 6 pin plug. Some water got in and started to corrode the pins on the back side, whenever it would get wet, it would make just enough contact to light up my trailer brake controller.
If it's all factory wiring, you're just going to have to chase that harness looking for bad spots.
I'd look for any place where something may have tapped into the trailer plug harness heading to the rear of the truck. I had similar problems on the back of my 6 pin plug. Some water got in and started to corrode the pins on the back side, whenever it would get wet, it would make just enough contact to light up my trailer brake controller.
If it's all factory wiring, you're just going to have to chase that harness looking for bad spots.
Whats a good fix? Lots of electical tape?
#4
Check the back of the 6-pin plug first. If that looks good, then I'd check where they spliced in for the bed plug. If that connection is all taped up, pull the tape and check the connections. Depending on how they spliced it in, you can wrap each splice individually, then re-wrap the whole thing.
The bad part about just taping the whole thing together is that when you have the tape around a bundle of wires, water can run down between the wires and fill up the gap where all the splices are.
If you have corrosion on the back of the 6-pin plug, you can clean/dry it all out, fill that area with dielectric grease, then tape it up. The grease will help keep the water out and prevent current from shorting between the pins.
The bad part about just taping the whole thing together is that when you have the tape around a bundle of wires, water can run down between the wires and fill up the gap where all the splices are.
If you have corrosion on the back of the 6-pin plug, you can clean/dry it all out, fill that area with dielectric grease, then tape it up. The grease will help keep the water out and prevent current from shorting between the pins.
#6
Check the splices on the wire to the in-bed plug.
You might want to install one of these at the splice point:
http://www.delcity.net/cartviewitem?item=73800&search=y
You might want to install one of these at the splice point:
http://www.delcity.net/cartviewitem?item=73800&search=y
#7
Another option would be to solder and indivicually shrink tube each wire.
If the previous owner used one of the kits that plugs into where the wiring harness plugs into the factory bumper socket, then I'd pull those connectors apart to clean them and pack with some dialectric grease.
If the previous owner used one of the kits that plugs into where the wiring harness plugs into the factory bumper socket, then I'd pull those connectors apart to clean them and pack with some dialectric grease.
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#8
Check the splices on the wire to the in-bed plug.
You might want to install one of these at the splice point:
http://www.delcity.net/cartviewitem?item=73800&search=y
You might want to install one of these at the splice point:
http://www.delcity.net/cartviewitem?item=73800&search=y
Another option would be to solder and indivicually shrink tube each wire.
If the previous owner used one of the kits that plugs into where the wiring harness plugs into the factory bumper socket, then I'd pull those connectors apart to clean them and pack with some dialectric grease.
If the previous owner used one of the kits that plugs into where the wiring harness plugs into the factory bumper socket, then I'd pull those connectors apart to clean them and pack with some dialectric grease.
#9
The junction box's are used on trailers to connect the truck harness to the trailer wires. The benefit of this is it allows a watertight junction for adding, removal and or testing of circuits.. A member on here used one for his in bed harness tie in points
Like Jeff mentioned always solder and heat shrink connections under the truck as road salts raise havoc with things..
Glad to see your enjoying that global warming in TX too!!
Here is some pics of the box's in use under the 5500 bed:
Like Jeff mentioned always solder and heat shrink connections under the truck as road salts raise havoc with things..
Glad to see your enjoying that global warming in TX too!!
Here is some pics of the box's in use under the 5500 bed:
#10
I finally was able to get under the truck and do some investigating. First I took the bed plug apart and found no corrosion or evidence of water. Next I followed the wires down to where they are spliced in to the factory harness and found that the wires are spliced in using the blue 3m splice clips that I hate. I am thinking this where I am getting the short.
I have been thinking about switching the bed plug to the bigger 7 pin and saw Colo_River_Ram talking about this "Valley "V30137" In Bed Harness" that plugs into factory connectors but I couldn't find the factory connectors while under the truck. Did I just overlook them? Can anyone tell me where this harness plugs in.
I would much rather use something like this instead of the splice clips.
thanks guys
I have been thinking about switching the bed plug to the bigger 7 pin and saw Colo_River_Ram talking about this "Valley "V30137" In Bed Harness" that plugs into factory connectors but I couldn't find the factory connectors while under the truck. Did I just overlook them? Can anyone tell me where this harness plugs in.
I would much rather use something like this instead of the splice clips.
thanks guys
#12
So will I still be able to use the socket that is on the bumper?
Also what would you think would be a good way to seal up the wires that had the splice taps on them once I remove them.
#13
There is a "liquid" tape that work well. Just brush it on. Several coats will last a long, long time.
#14
Yes to all of the above comments..
I hate those blue taps as well they are job security for mechanics. be sure to check the wires these were tapped into, if corrosion is present you might have to remove a section of wire and solder / heat-shrink them.
The in-bed harness is nice, all waterproof connection like the factory one. I got my in bed harness here:
http://www.etrailer.com/product.aspx?pc=V30137
Here is what it looks like installed in the bed, the harness has plenty of length for up too an 8' bed and has split loom shielding on it.
I hate those blue taps as well they are job security for mechanics. be sure to check the wires these were tapped into, if corrosion is present you might have to remove a section of wire and solder / heat-shrink them.
The in-bed harness is nice, all waterproof connection like the factory one. I got my in bed harness here:
http://www.etrailer.com/product.aspx?pc=V30137
Here is what it looks like installed in the bed, the harness has plenty of length for up too an 8' bed and has split loom shielding on it.
#15
Yes to all of the above comments..
I hate those blue taps as well they are job security for mechanics. be sure to check the wires these were tapped into, if corrosion is present you might have to remove a section of wire and solder / heat-shrink them.
The in-bed harness is nice, all waterproof connection like the factory one. I got my in bed harness here:
http://www.etrailer.com/product.aspx?pc=V30137
Here is what it looks like installed in the bed, the harness has plenty of length for up too an 8' bed and has split loom shielding on it.
I hate those blue taps as well they are job security for mechanics. be sure to check the wires these were tapped into, if corrosion is present you might have to remove a section of wire and solder / heat-shrink them.
The in-bed harness is nice, all waterproof connection like the factory one. I got my in bed harness here:
http://www.etrailer.com/product.aspx?pc=V30137
Here is what it looks like installed in the bed, the harness has plenty of length for up too an 8' bed and has split loom shielding on it.