new engine heavy haul no egt gauge
ask for the ghost or a 56 block 
08-19-2004 | 05:21 AM
#32
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From: Battle Creek Michigan
Originally posted by RustyJC
A specific heat of 0.660 BTU/lb/degF for 100% ethylene glycol just means that it only takes 0.660 BTU to raise the temperature of 1 pound of ethylene glycol 1 degree Fahrenheit at 200 degF coolant temperature. On the other hand, it takes 1.0052 BTU to raise the temperature of 1 pound of pure water 1 degree Fahrenheit, again at 200 degF. This means that the ethylene glycol can only absorb about 66% as much heat as pure water from the combustion process for a given coolant temperature rise and flow rate. The combustion heat isn't being transferred to the coolant to the extent that it would be with plain water or (almost as efficient at 0.914 BTU/lb/degF) a 60% water/40% ethylene glycol mix. Therefore, your engine quite possibly gets roasted.
Not to get too technical, but if you know the flow rate of the coolant through the engine (in pounds per minute) and the temperature rise from the water pump inlet to the back side of the thermostat (in degrees Fahrenheit), you can calculate how much heat is being rejected from the engine to the coolant each minute if you know the specific heat of whatever's circulating through the cooling jackets.
Rejected Heat (BTU/minute) = Flow (lbs/minute) x Temperature Rise (degF) x Specific Heat of Coolant (BTU/lb/degF)
Rusty
A specific heat of 0.660 BTU/lb/degF for 100% ethylene glycol just means that it only takes 0.660 BTU to raise the temperature of 1 pound of ethylene glycol 1 degree Fahrenheit at 200 degF coolant temperature. On the other hand, it takes 1.0052 BTU to raise the temperature of 1 pound of pure water 1 degree Fahrenheit, again at 200 degF. This means that the ethylene glycol can only absorb about 66% as much heat as pure water from the combustion process for a given coolant temperature rise and flow rate. The combustion heat isn't being transferred to the coolant to the extent that it would be with plain water or (almost as efficient at 0.914 BTU/lb/degF) a 60% water/40% ethylene glycol mix. Therefore, your engine quite possibly gets roasted.
Not to get too technical, but if you know the flow rate of the coolant through the engine (in pounds per minute) and the temperature rise from the water pump inlet to the back side of the thermostat (in degrees Fahrenheit), you can calculate how much heat is being rejected from the engine to the coolant each minute if you know the specific heat of whatever's circulating through the cooling jackets.
Rejected Heat (BTU/minute) = Flow (lbs/minute) x Temperature Rise (degF) x Specific Heat of Coolant (BTU/lb/degF)
Rusty
printing a copy of this to hand deliver to my dodge dealership
thank you
08-20-2004 | 07:03 PM
#34
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From: Battle Creek Michigan
ya know, i might consider a new one but i am into this one so deep i can't hardly do it. biggest let down/loss would be the aftermarket tanny/lockup torqe converter. i have driven the new ones with the 48r and they just don't hold a candle to this one and i'm too old (or to lazy) to do the clutch and shift thing.
12-08-2004 | 01:47 PM
#35
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Herb, Running real tight on time here, so did not have time to check all the posts, and someone might have told you, but I have seen where it was recommended to partially plug the tailpipe and let the engine idle while you were drilling the hole. In fact, a friend just told me a couple of days ago of doing this, and said it just BLASTS the chips out as you drill. I put mine in POST turbo, and most of the time mine is at 600 - 700 deg. unless I am pulling a major load up a steep hill or crank in substantial box. Then, all I have to do is hit the tow button or back off a bit to keep it under 950. The box actually seems to be the biggest influence, but then only if I am really on it.
Mike
Mike
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