blew # 5 and 6 piston hauling load to west coast. dodge replaced engine at a dealership in Tuscon Ar . now i have to take a carriage to Calif with my gasser and a 16 foot flatbed and then load the gasser and trailer up on the 46' gooseneck (also left in Tuscon) and bring back to MI.
Actually, i am gointg to go thru Tuscon on the way to Ca -switch the 16' trailer to the Deisel and tow it to Ca for a break-in then retreive the gasser and trailer on the way back.
My problem with this is that Dodge will not reinstall the pyrometer so i will be towing back without the egt gauge and am concerned about overheating and losing another engine.
I originally had the pyro installed by cummins in Grand Rapids Mi
and found out after the "meltdown" that it had been installed post turbo instead of pre turbo, thus giving me an inaccurate temp reading in the cab. Also found a 35% radiator restriction and nearly straight mixture of antifreeze . I had just had the cooling system serviced-- flushed --and new coolant, at my local Dodge dealer about a month prior to this trip.
hate not to use overdrive but may be the only way to do this saftly ?

 

Do you have time to driil and tap the manifold yourself for the EGT, it doesn't take that long, or take it to a local shop to do it. At least then you would know how hot you are running. Might put you out some time but there is something to be said for piece of mind.

 

i did not do the last one for fear i would get metal shavings into the tubo, be nice if i could find a local shop with the Know how to do it right.
but then, last time i had it done at a cummins shop and ?

 

I would take the tools and install the pyro yourself before hitting the road. Or have someone install it for you.
Might be a nice break in the trip...if its not too hot there.

 

where is a diagram/intruction for this install? will copy and take along. see if i can find a local to do it. mecanic at dodge may steer me to a local, seems dumb that dodge would not do it while disassemled.

 

I am thinking the reason Dodge wouldnt do it is that the engine came complete and would mean disassembling the exh to do it , reason Cummins didnt install it preturbo is that all OEM install the pyro post turbo. if you had ask them to install it preturbo , they would have done that for you, but at the additional cost of removing the turbo and exh. manifold and doing it right , yes I know you do not need to remove the exh. man. , I have done jobs that require a pyro on each exh. port on the manifold for research on natural gas ISB engines . so anything can be done , you just have to express what or how you want the job done and pay the additional cost of doing that job.

 

blame myself---i did not know how it should have been done at the time it was installed. guess i thought taking it to cummins instead of a shade tree mecanic (no offense to st mecanics) they would know the best way to install.
but then too , i thought when i payed top dollar to my local dodge dealer to have the cooling system flushed and new fluid installed (months before the service was due) that they would have noticed a 35% restriction in the radiator and that they would have added water to the antifreeze when the put the new coolant back in.
seems if we are going to own a vehicle maybe we should attend a tech school so we know what to tell the mechanics we employee how to do what we want done .

 

Herb, what did you go with, a long block replacement? What were your egt's with the 300 injectors? What injectors are in the new motor? How many miles with the 300's in the old motor? Were your engine temps high with 35% coolant restriction to the motor? What effect did consentrated coolant have? Was over heating, over fueling or under lubing cause of failure?

what break-in procedures did dodge recomend for your new unit?
inquiring minds whant to know! thanks and good luck....sty

 

from conversations i have had with them over the phone, they put in a short block. the egt's were running 900-950 most of the time (keep in mind that the pyro was post turbo ) so the actual temp was probably 1200-1250 ? . hot enough that the exhaust manifold was split all the way down to the exhaust pipe. water temps on the factory temp gauge were reading 200-210, altho the check engine lights came on twice the day before the "meltdown" but went off after stopping and letting it rest for a while. the lights never came on the day it finally quit.
the mecanics at the dealership said when he checked the radiator fluid that straight antifreeze does not allow the engine to sweat or to cool properly
i told the dealer that i wanted to stop there on my way to Ca and hook a 16" trailer with one horse buggy on it to break it in before i started back to MI with the 53" trailer with gasser and empty trailer on board, they seemed to think that was a good plan
i was not given a diagnosis of whether it was overheating-overfueling or underlubricating that caused the problem.
i had just put the 300 injectors in a week or so before this trip and they are reinstalling the injectors from the old engine to the new
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...571353-med.jpg

 

Just a thought Herb, Is there any members down that way that could possibly help with locating a shop or even help you with the install? I would be kind of leery running a new engine without any gauges.
Tom

 

Do you remember if the egt's were any lower before running the 300's? With a short block replacement I'd think abit about using the old head after being hot enough to split the cast manifold and wonder about the flow and spray of the injectors. It seems possible the check engine lite isn't reliable and given your old head assemble is going back in service on the new block [is it a #56?], without more diagnosis I agree with Mntom . I wouldn't be comfortable putting it back to work without the means to monitor vital signs.

Probably a combo of cooling and fueling.and timing. I siezed a 6.9 in a ford once when it cracked a fuel fitting going up the mountain, ran lean going down, over heated and collapsed a lifter, lost oil pressure , grabbed a bearing and siezed at the bottom of a 6 mile down hill run. Found a plugged oil cooler too during autopsy![truckopsy].

Anyway, thanks for the info, I was thinking of going with a similar set up as yours to avoid comp fueling/defueling vp44 issues. How much buggy wieght do you pull?

 

IF THERE IS I WOULD SURE APPREACIATE A POST OR AN E MAIL

 

BUGGYS WILL AVERAGE 1,000 POUNDS EACH , AND THAT IS ON THE HEAVY SIDE-- I FIGURE WITH THE TRAILER I WAS PULLING 11,500.
I HAVE BEEN ASSURED BY MANUFACTURER (BOSCH) SELLER AND LOTS OF FOLKS ON THIS FORUM THAT THE 300S ARE NOT AGGRESSIVE ENOUGH TO HAVE CAUSED THIS PROBLEM. SURE HOPE THEY ARE RIGHT.
I SURE WOULD BE A LOT MORE CONTENT IF I KNEW WHAT CAUSED THE PROBLEM FOR SURE BUT THERE ARE A NUMBER OF VARIABLES THAT I DO NOT FEEL COMFORTABLE DISCUSSING WITH DODGE.

 

Search the internet for a local Banks dealer. They can and install the pyro in the exhaust manifold for you. I had mine done here for $130. I figure that Banks stands behind their stuff that's why it cost so much. They did NOT pull the Turbo but completely disconnected it and put a blank in then drilled and tapped the hole. then he vacummed and used a magenet to get out any left over shavingins. When he pulled the blank out from between the manifold and turbo it was clean. I took pictures that way if the turbo goes and DC says it's becuse of the pyro they willl have to prove it and I have the pics, then Banks will hve to pay for it if DC does prove it to be true.

 

Does that seem high to everyone? After reading other posts that temp should not hurt anything. Someone must have the real answer.