How much of a pain is it to move the springs to the top of the axle on a 24' pull behind? I'd like to get it a little higher. Anyone done this?

 

Haven't done it yet but looking at it as I have a 25 ft 5er and am getting a new truck which is higher than my current one. You will need 4 jackstands and a good jack. You want to get NEW U-Bolts to replace the ones you are removing. You will also probably need new spring perchs welded to the axle so you don't turn the brakes upside down. (Do this and if the return spring breaks the shoes fall out to contact the drum and then burn up the shoes and magnets. Had this happen on a utility trailer someone else built. Also when I serviced the bearings on my 5er each axle had a broken return spring.) Probably want someone who can help you lift the axles out. Like I said I haven't done it but I will be doing it in the next few weeks.

 

I'd like to see a little report on how it goes. Good luck.

 

I've done this to two trailers both about 30' that were used in rough terrain. It is a relatively simple job if you have good jacks and stands as well as a welder to weld the new spring perches on the top of the axle. Jack up and support the trailer, put a floor jack under the axle then remove the tire then the leaf spring. Weld on your new perch and reinstall spring. I do them one side at a time so the axle cannot get out of alignment. Get new hardware too, its cheap and speeds up the job.

Brian

 

Where can I get the spring perchs? Is that the same thing as the u-bolt plates I see at farm supply stores?

 

Spring perches are the small pieces that provide a flat spot for the spring to perch. They are welded to the axle tube and you can get them at any store that sells trailer suspension parts as they are common. You should be able to reuse the ubolt plates.

Brian

 

Just did it 2 weeks ago. This is the second trailer I have done it to. I also jacked one side at a time. Bought the spring perches from a local trailer repair/supply business. On both of my trailers it would have been a bad idea to flip the axles over and use the original spring perches - since the axles on both had an arch built into them. Took about 3 1/2 hours by myself. Also re-used all hardware. Works easiest to jack up one side, put floor jack under axle, pull the tires off that side, unbolt u-bolts, drop axle some, unbolt springs, weld perches, put back together, then repeat on other side.

 

It's not that bad... I did it about 2 months ago to my 16 footer. As mentioned above, the most important thing to do is to weld new perches to the top side of the axles. Virtually all trailer axles have positive camber built into them by slightly bowing the axle tube. If you just roll the axles over, you'll end up with negative camber and horrible tire wear. Since my trailer was an older one and all the hardware was firmly set in it's ways.... I just used the blue-tipped wrench remove the old ubolts. New u-bolts were $7 for a package of two (included new nuts) and new perches were about $2.50 each.

$40 and a little of my time.....

 

I had it done to my fiver about 3 years ago. For the kit from Dexter Axle and the labor it cost $240. With my trailer weighing 11,500 pounds and having two axles, I felt better leaving the job to the pros. My mechanical abilities are limited.

DeWain

 

Thanks for the tip about the camber. I had no idea.

 

If you need more, I added 4 inch channel between springs and frame in about 5 hours on a 33' low rider tt....sty

 

"blue-tipped wrench".....that's funny! Kinda like a rope wrench only for steel?

 

OK, I give...

What's a rope wrench?

 

I just had it done a 26 ft Dutchman TT. I had about 2 inches max, now I have about 5 inchs between the tire and the wheel well. I had it done and it coast me $200.
Hope this helps
Paul

 

Probably a good idea to have your axles realligned after flipping them.