Sidewinder

What is the difference between the hitch weight ratings for weight carrying and weight distributing?

My hitch is rated 5,000 lbs. weight carring and 10,000 lbs. weight distributing. If I was to tow a 9,000 lb. boat (with surge brakes - so it is not possible to use a weight distributing setup) would I still be OK?

The actual hitch must be strong enough to tow 10,000 lbs. no matter what the configuration so I assume the difference is just safety not strength.

And if the hitch is strong enough for 10,000 lbs. then why should I replace it with one with a 10,000 lb. weight CARRYING rating?? No matter which I use I CANNOT use a distributing setup on this boat trailer.

Any opinions? (Like I needed to ask)

P.J

Surge brakes are crap. (no offense) Anyway you can swap out to an electric set up?

I tow about 9K total wothout a WDH, don't really care either causeI know people that tow almost double that without one either.

I would say your okay, others will likely nay say.

RustyJC

Without weight distributing bars, the 500 lb tongue weight/5000 lb trailer weight ratings apply. But you already knew that, I suspect.

Rusty

Sidewinder

Yes I know about electric brakes AND I know about the weight ratings AND I know surge brakes are crap and I have been towing the boat for two years already BUT why is the weight rating different? Anyone know?

With the weight distributing hitch setup you can pull 10,000lbs of weight. That means that the strength of the hitch and the bolts and the frame and the hitch pin and the coupler and everything else must be strong enough for 10,000 lbs. Why is it NOT OK to pull 10,000 lbs. with a weight carrying hitch setup (assuming the properly rated ball and coupler). All of the hardware would be the same.

I'm thinking maybe it has something to do with tongue weight and that it would be too high without the distributing bars for the 10-15% of the total load - but I don't really know.

I just don't see what the difference is?

If I got a hitch rated for 10,000 lbs. weight carrying is it stronger? If it is then why can I use the one I have now for 10,000 lbs. weight distributing?

I think I'm confusing myself.

NHDiesel

To think about weight carrying and weight distributing, think about putting a 10-foot bar in your receiver. Stand at the end of the bar (away from the vehicle) and see what happens. You put a twisting motion on the receiver, which adds a lot of stress. (To get a good view, think about doing this on a car, not your CTD). Now stand on that same bar up where it enters the receiver. Same weight on the same bar, just distributed differently. The back of the car won't sag as much, and instead of a twisting motion on the receiver, you are putting a direct downward motion to it.

Its not so much how much it will "yank"...the 10,000 lbs. is the pulling force, not the downward force ("tongue weight"). The reason the trailer weight goes up is to keep people from putting too little tongue weight on the vehicle. The basic for a straight hitch is that the tongue weight should be 10% of the trailer weight. Thats why when the tongue weight is only 500 lbs., the trailer weight rating is reduced to 5,000 lbs. You wouldn't want a 500 lb. tongue weight with a 10,000 lb. trailer.

Jim

Fronty Owner

think of it like this.

in the above example (NHDiesel), you are creating a moment (2000 ft-lbs in this case) on your reciever. a weight distributing hitch will apply a negative moment centered at the ball. This will help counter the moment created by the load and the distance from the mounting point. It helps distribute the weight further forward (acts in front of the bumper) on the frame.

Bonshawman

Safety is one issue, beating up your rig is another. If you follow the guidelines you generally come out OK. The weight distributing hitch allows for disbursement along the frame of the truck, not just dead vert. weight on the hitch ball and receiver shaft. There are variables of road condition, speed, turns, hills, etc to consider as well.

I used to haul a 7500# truck on a 3,000# 6 ton 16' equipment trailer behind my F250. Depending on what link of the weight distributing chain links I chose to "bind" on, I could level that trailer/truck combo just right - measured front and rear wheel wells to ground - spot on. So my 10,500# load was real comfortable with an estimated 1,050# tongue weight.

Some people choose to ignore GVW and GCVW ratings and just load 'em up an go. If you have a warranty, that's now void if something happens. If you get in a wreck, good luck in court. Certainly some rules and regulations are a pain to deal with, but they are there for a reason - matching the right truck with the right tow set up to the right trailer with the right load = safety. Anything short of that is a risk, but it is not only YOUR risk, it is your fellow motorists too. How much risk are you comfortable with ?

DarkPaladin

So what is actually the capacity of my truck as far as towing? I'm a bit confused. What is max weight without a WD hitch, what is the max weight with a WD hitch? Typical 05 2500 QC 4x4 CTD. Unless I missed the actual section in the book, or read it wrong. I didn't see a max load capacity.

P.J

Should be Class IV, max 5k with 500lbs. tougne weight.

I think.

DarkPaladin

So what do I need to do to pull my buddy's 31' tagalong with my truck? I know that's more than 5k. I have a class IV hitch from the factory..

P.J

I suppose a Class V with WD hitch (to be really "legal").
Not really sure, I have never hooked up to anything that big...?

Sidewinder

That is exactly my original point. If I have a class V hitch rated for 10,000 lbs. weight carrying I would be leagle. If I have a class IV/V I would not. Both would be used without equalizing bars but both can PULL 10,000 lbs. Same tongue weight on the truck with both hitches and same load (assuming 9,000 Lbs from me original post) and no equalization. I still don't get it.

NHDiesel

I have never seen a class IV thats under 10K weight dist. capacity. Most are 12K (mine is). You could get a weight distributing drawbar setup if you want to pull his trailer, and use your hitch.

Is his trailer set up with weight distributing bars? If so, borrow his drawbar, put it in your Class IV reciever, and head out on vacation.

Check out this web site:
http://www.hitchfinder.com/drawtite/GTW_TW.htm

It estimates the typical 32' trailer at around 6400 lbs. Thats close enough that you could pull it without a weight distribution setup with a Class IV hitch. Use a weight distributing setup if you really want to feel safe. For what its worth, I pull 5000-6000 lbs. on a pretty regular basis with my Class IV without dist. bars, and I hardly know its back there.

Jim

NHDiesel

Dark, to answer your other question 9what YOUR truck can tow), according to the Dodge web site, you can tow 13,100 lbs. with an automatic transmission.

2005 RAM 2500
ST, Quad Cab, 4x4, 6.25 Ft, 5.9L Cummins Turbo Diesel Engine - 610 lb-ft, 4-Speed Automatic Transmission
With 4.10 Axle Ratio You Can Tow 13100 lbs
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating(GVWR)[i]=9000
Payload[i]=2235
Curb Weight[i]=6765
Curb WeightFront/Rear=4153/2612
GAWR[i]Front/Rear=5200/6000
Gross Combination Weight Rating(GCWR)[i]=20000

With 3.73 Axle Ratio You Can Tow 13100 lbs
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating(GVWR)[i]=9000
Payload[i]=2235
Curb Weight[i]=6765
Curb WeightFront/Rear=4153/2612
GAWR[i]Front/Rear=5200/6000
Gross Combination Weight Rating(GCWR)[i]=20000

Jim

DarkPaladin

Thanks for the info. I wasn;t sure how to get the numbers right. Exactly what I needed. He has the bars with his hitch setup. So I would just borrow his whole thing and slide into my receiver. I shouldn't have too much trouble, he does use a ford to pull his. ))