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Jordan brake controller

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Old 12-20-2005 | 06:51 AM
  #16  
bigfoot's Avatar
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From: Cleburne TX
[QUOTE=FiverBob]Here is mine.
Bob

[/QUOT

Bob , Do you have something showing how the cable is hooked ?
Old 12-20-2005 | 09:15 AM
  #17  
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From: Sarasota, Florida
Originally Posted by Casey Balvert
Old 12-20-2005 | 09:18 AM
  #18  
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From: Sarasota, Florida
[QUOTE=bigfoot]
Originally Posted by FiverBob
Here is mine.
Bob

[/QUOT

Bob , Do you have something showing how the cable is hooked ?
No pic of it. Pretty simple. Look up at the top of the brake pedal to the round servo mechanism. You put on a round collar at the end of that cylinder, attach the holder and set the wire module in it - - then adjust. That position of the controller allows for a straight shot for the wire and easy access for an emergency and for monitoring the current draw.
Old 12-20-2005 | 12:34 PM
  #19  
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Mine should be here tomorrow or the next day. I have used a ton of diff controllers and have never seen one quite like this. Jim
Old 12-21-2005 | 07:31 AM
  #20  
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From: Cleburne TX
The best controller I ever had was one of those old hydraulic over electric. For you young folks you had to install a tee in the brake line and run the line into the cab.

Worked so smooth sometimes made you think the trailer brakes were not working.

Have not seen one of them in years .

Bob , thanks for the info if I run in to problems I'll PM you.
Old 12-21-2005 | 08:18 AM
  #21  
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From: Oregon
Originally Posted by bigfoot
The best controller I ever had was one of those old hydraulic over electric. For you young folks you had to install a tee in the brake line and run the line into the cab.

Worked so smooth sometimes made you think the trailer brakes were not working.

Have not seen one of them in years .

Bob , thanks for the info if I run in to problems I'll PM you.
I remember them....alot like the brakesmart we can't get!
Old 12-21-2005 | 10:31 AM
  #22  
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I use to install the old style. They worked great but I really liked installling the newer style as I really didn't want to tap into the brakes for insurance reasons. Installations sure has come a long ways since then. Back then we had to wire everything including fuses. I will be putting on the Jordon when it get's here and I am hoping it is as smooth as the old style. Jim
Old 12-21-2005 | 11:14 PM
  #23  
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From: Oregon
From the advise here, I got the Jordan and have been happy with it. I don't do a lot of towing, but when I have, it seems to work great.

Hopefully they have corrected this, but my complaint is during install. It has a bracket that fits over the tube that the brake slides on. Pretty technical terms here, maybe I should call it a do-dad. Anyway, the bracket was too large to properly tighten down. I had to put it in a vise and contort the entire thing several times to get it to stay on tight. I think I sent them an email afterward advising them of this issue. They should make the bracket sleeve smaller, you can expand it, then use the clamp to tighten it.

Anyway, I hope you don't have this issue, maybe they have fixed it.
Old 12-22-2005 | 12:39 AM
  #24  
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From: NC/SC
Originally Posted by bigfoot
The best controller I ever had was one of those old hydraulic over electric. For you young folks you had to install a tee in the brake line and run the line into the cab.

Worked so smooth sometimes made you think the trailer brakes were not working.

Have not seen one of them in years .

Bob , thanks for the info if I run in to problems I'll PM you.
I had one of those, Kelsey-Hayes model 81740, worked great back on the '70's. Recently bought a newer model 81740C that was manufactured on Oct 30, 1991 off Ebay and installed it in my truck when BrakeSmart failed to deliver.
It works even better than the earlier model and cost a fraction of a BrakeSmart, I paid $10.51+8.51 shipping and the tee cost $7.41 at NAPA.

And, there's no cable to unhook and hook when I tow, plus it never needs adjusting unless I tow a different trailer. This is a heavily built metal unit, in fact the only piece of plastic is the ****.

Hyspeed
Old 12-27-2005 | 01:43 PM
  #25  
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From: Alpena MI
I have the adj. pedals version also( need to address this when ordering) the clamp was a bit loose around the cylinder (as mentioned), rather than bend it, I just cut a thin shim and inserted behind the clamp. I would recommend attaching the shielded cable to the thin metal under the dash rather than the plastic itself. Other wise the shield/cable could twist at the attachment point and could change the cable tension on the unit.
Any ways, it does takes a little time to install, my old joints (62) could be why it took a little longer!!!!!
Old 12-31-2005 | 06:28 PM
  #26  
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From: Pavillion, Wyoming
I'm not sure where I heard this, but I think the hydraulic version isn't desireable on units with anti-lock brakes. I think that is why the designs have changed and no one makes the type that plumbs into the brake line. Please correct me if I am off track....

Steve
Old 01-01-2006 | 07:37 AM
  #27  
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From: Oregon
Steve,

It is also my understanding that it was the advent of anti-lock brakes that did away with the fluid pressure activated brake controllers.

I think that is why the Brakesmart uses an electronic pressure transducer that doesn't displace any fluid, unlike the old style where fluid pressure moved the ****.

Jeff
Old 01-04-2006 | 02:49 AM
  #28  
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From: Hawaii
I had a Jordan and it worked ok. I bought a Prodigy and like it much better. I really haven't noticed a difference between the smoothness of the two. It is just that the Prodigy is much easier to work with and I like the different boost settings. Also with the Prodigy's plug in connector installation only takes a few minutes.
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