Divide 5500 by 240, not by 120.

 

Hehe ok thanks that makes more sense.

 

If you are even considering running more than 1 item (like a refrigerator) off the generator, get the wall mounted transfer switch setup with the plug adpated that the 240 VAC 30 amp line hooks into from the generator. The bigggest problem I see is where people hook all this stuff up to a 2K - 3.5KW unit then overload it. Where I live, up by the Oregon border, it is not uncommon to lose power from a few hours to 5 days a winter (at one time) and often several times in the winter. I went ahead and bit the bullet and got the Honda 6500 rig with electric start and 120 / 240 output and hooked up the transfer switch to the house circuit panel. This is the best way to go, but can cost some money for the transfer switch. You also have to consider what you are running and the start up draw for total wattage requirements. A microwave, for instance can draw 1500 KW to start. If you have a 3000 watt system, you're half gone already. Coleman is OK, but noisy and not real fuel efficient. Being in the country and on a well, there is not much of an option but to have a backup power source.

 

I agree with Nor Cal, about a transfer switch, It is a necessary safety device which will also prevent back feeding of the grid, which protects anyone else working with/on the power system, as well as isolates the loads to just your house. have you tried Northern Tool? they have lots of different sizes of smaller generators.

 

Do a search on generac generators and you will find that they build them for several companies like Sears and many others. Some of their models use the Briggs and Honda motors(and a cummins )but they do build their own motor which is like a Honda copy. I have a Sears unit with the Generac motor and it is a nice running engine. Not as quiet as a true Honda but nowhere near as loud as a Briggs/Tec. It is a 7500 watt 15hp that I have ran 14 hours straight on 6 gallons running lights, a/c and other stuff at the track.

A word of advice, buy one bigger that you thing you will need. That way if your needs grow down the road it can handle the job.

Stay away from Coleman, they are not what they used to be. Now a days, they just for those who think they need a generator and never really use it or rely on it.

 

That is the problem with some cheap generators,they wont give you a heavy duty enough plug to handle the full output of the generator. Sometimes it is the gens output,they advertise the peak maxiumum output,but they will size the recepticle to the continous maximum output,which is the only output you shoud rely on anyway.

Even though you only have a 3 prong twistlock,you can run it to your home thru a transfer switch.While i am no electrician,I did wire my own home,which in 10 yrs hasnt caught fire yet,and passes UL inspection..In the case of your gen,you would run the red,and black wires to the transfer switch as usual,and the white(neatral) and ground wires (green) or bare,would be tied together at some point.In this case it will not hurt a thing,but you should find someone who knows what they are doing to help you or hire it out. If your not qualified,get an electrician to do a trasfer panel,and switch,and when its all done,I test the loads with an amp probe,to balance them to the generators legs,and not overload it.A little info on the 4th wire,as I was told by my electrician friend.The 4th wire was added yrs go,to keep ppl form getting very tiny shocks from applainces that used both 240 and 120 V,they would run the neatral thru the ground wire on a 3 wire 240 plug.An example would be a light bulb in an electric oven.It is 120V,the oven is 240V,so the used the ground wire to carry the small amount of returning current of the lightbulb. I guess in csome rare cases,ppl with wet bare feet were getting tiny shocks when the light was on,and it was due to the ground wires voltage drop,the oven even though grounded thru the wire,would have a small charge of usually less than 1-2volts,but it tingled a few ppl.Same with the dryers,that is why they went to a 4 plug system to isolate the Neatral from the ground wire.

 

Patrick - Bummer autosignature!

L8r,........dogger

 

I have been read mostly favorably reviews about this generator. It seems perfect for RVers. 3000/3300 watts, 72lbs, and DSP electronics vs analog for Yamaha/Honda, about $1000.. They are on their 4th Gen.
Service does not seem widely availabel, but you can get a $50 return on hte 2 year warranty.
Comments?

 

i had a 5000 watt powermate it was ok once i got it started it was hard to start and very noisey i sold it for the same price i paid for it and i went and got a onan 5000 much nicer

 

the 120/220 volt 4 prong outlet on a coleman shou;d be 20amp per leg(2ea 120v 20 amp circuit)
Clark

 

Do you know why Honda's cost so much? Because they're worth it.

If the power doesn't go out much and the generator is going to be more of a luxury item than a regularly used tool then a lesser quality most likely will work for you.

If you live where there's natural gas go that route. Unless earthquakes are a problem in your area.

Gas goes bad, is dangerous to store any amount of it takes up space in your garage and and if you don't have power maybe the gas stations don't either. One option is Propane You can get a 100 or 150 gallon tank (if you have delivery service) and it won't go bad and you'll have enough to last you quite a while without power.



If you don't have delivery service stock up on 25lb cylinders. Run your generator and BBQ off of them. The switch someone mentioned above is a good thing.

 

Look at Tractor Supply also. They have a knock off brand in there that several members have tried and have had good success with and it's in the same price range. I had an electrician install a manual transfer switch and I added a male 50 amp plug on a pigtail to plug in the generator. Then I made up a 35 foot extension cord so all I have to do is plug it in and throw the switch. As far as storing gas, I use two 5 gallon safety cans, buy premium fuel and add some Stabil to them. In the spring I use that gas in the lawn mower and replace it in the winter. I've been doing it that way for years and haven't had any issues so far.

 

If I can offer some unsolicited advice, buy something good once. You will not regret buying a quality item once its bought.

"The bitterness of poor quality lingers long after the sweetness of a low price"

 

2nd that------i have a coleman 3500 cont and 3800 surg with a brigs 9tq motor that has been beat to death and still works great but is loud and uses alot of gas on long outtages. i went to home depot and got a 8500 coleman with a yamaha motor and ya just cant ever tell if its going to run or not. But the pick of the litter is my 2 camo eu2000's i got 1 year ago. These things rock. I use these for the hunting club and camping and they are my go to genny now. I had a storm outtage in the middle of the summer and i ran 1 for 6 days straight. I have a extended fuel tanks for both and they will run for 3 days on 5 gal v/s 25 gal on the smaller coleman. I can stand next to them and carry on a conversation they are so queit. With one eu i can run a double dr fridge plenty of lights and a big screen tv and all my computer stuff with routers. They have over 1000 hours and still going strong.