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Home wiring for the RV

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Old 03-22-2007 | 07:06 PM
  #31  
Tim Holt's Avatar
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From: Corinth Texas
All you have to do Dan, is remove your neutral lead, and the green bond wire to be sure you loose all the neutral lead and go plug in your RV and find out yourself what happens.

I have invited you to prove it out yourself several times. So its not about agreeing on this. I want you to find out for yourself.

Your not that far from where I live. Come to Destiny Dallas and ask the guy in slot 51 what happens. The electrical engineer that had to inspect it and give cause. The electrician that did the repairs to the line and the park management. All of them explained to us just like I explained it to you.

Dont take my word for it, ask the pros.

And while your here I will be glad to wire you up a circuit with similar loads and pull the neutral while the circuit is live. Have volt meters in place and everything ready to go for a live demo if you want. Then with you watching and reading exactly what happens, maybe you can get a better understanding of how a circuit can change. Shouldnt take me more than 30 minutes to wire it all up for you.
Old 03-23-2007 | 08:48 PM
  #32  
duner's Avatar
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From: az
the dangers of a floating or open neutral can ruin your day. rv's aren't wired like houses. the inverters have to be taken into consideration also. not
to be mistaken with converters.
Old 03-23-2007 | 09:36 PM
  #33  
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From: long island new york
ok ladies and gentleman i am hear i my self am a lic electrician
1 there are 2 types of rv outlets, 1 is a 125v 30 amp that means 2 wires plus ground awg # 10 or greater (larger) depends on length of run,1 hot wire , 1 neut wire & 1 ground wire all #10 or larger
the other is a 125/250v 50amp this means 4 wires 2 hots 1 neut,1 ground both hot wires MUST be on different phases in order to get 250 v the 125 part means that there are 125 v items inside the camper ie micro fridge the ac unit the big item not many rv have 50 amps dezl pushers ,alot of class a are 125v 30 amp
Old 03-23-2007 | 09:37 PM
  #34  
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From: long island new york
also i would run a #6 awg wire depending on length
Old 03-23-2007 | 11:36 PM
  #35  
Tim Holt's Avatar
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From: Corinth Texas
Originally Posted by irocin350
ok ladies and gentleman i am hear i my self am a lic electrician
1 there are 2 types of rv outlets, 1 is a 125v 30 amp that means 2 wires plus ground awg # 10 or greater (larger) depends on length of run,1 hot wire , 1 neut wire & 1 ground wire all #10 or larger
the other is a 125/250v 50amp this means 4 wires 2 hots 1 neut,1 ground both hot wires MUST be on different phases in order to get 250 v the 125 part means that there are 125 v items inside the camper ie micro fridge the ac unit the big item not many rv have 50 amps dezl pushers ,alot of class a are 125v 30 amp

Thats correct on the motor coaches. But most of the big 5th wheel travel trailers are 50 amp 240V hookups. Those are the ones that we see the most with surge damage. Mostly because the plugs are pushed in or pulled out with the load switch (or breaker) ON. I have seen some of those 4 pole plugs burned so bad that the pins look like the jagged edge of a steak knife. If people would just simply turn off the power before handling the plug.
Old 04-22-2007 | 07:31 PM
  #36  
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From: Waycross, GA
Most smaller coaches are 30a because they have 1 air conditioner, larger units have 2 air conditioners and therefore have a 50a service, as for the light bulb wired inline with an A/C unit @ 240v it is not voltage but AMPs that blow the bulb, the bulb never sees 240v. This is based on over 30 years as an electrician.
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