Guys here are some thoughts for you all

Shanks on hitches is ALWAYS A BIG issue when it comes down for my dad to install gooseneck or trailer hitches. My agenda is, Is a bigger shank always better? I say no. In what way is a lets say, three inch sleeve shank like my gn hitch (which came with the ram) gonna save you from anything, when the diameter at the center of the ball is no bigger than 1 1/4, or/ 1 1/2 inches? The same concept for bumper pull trailers. I see no need for anything larger than a 1 1/4 inch shank, My personal dual purpose pintle has the 1 1/2 shank that came with it, but my regular receivers have just a one inch hole for a one inch shank. For a gooseneck, i see no need for anything larger than one and a quarter or one and a half as well for the same reasons that I have stated. What do you guys think about this? Im not saying im right on any of this, just wonderin what other folks think about this issue...

Are sleeve shanks better than screw on hitch *****? I say they are more for conveniance than anything else.. But im indifferent about either or, specially in my case since im stuck with what i already have...

Thanks!

Tx

 

I think that it comes down to where the shear point would be if it were to actually break.
I'm not an honest-to-God mechanical engineer mind you (although I did stay in a Holiday Inn Express), but in my days as a machinist I learned that the weakest part of any machined part will be where there is a sharp angle.
In this application, it would be where the machined shank meets the shoulder (the part that actually sits flush on your bumper).
The narrow part of the ball (neck) is made with a huge radius that is capable of withstanding many times more stress than the 90 degree angle on the shank.

If they add 1/4 to 1/2 inch of meat to the shank and this kinda equals things out. More times than not, your bumper is gonna give way and rip the steel before the ball breaks.


This "shear point" thoery is the main reason that I will never buy one of those units that you can swap the size ball without having to take off the rest of the assembly. They rely on a small, hardened steel pin to hold your trailer to your vehicle.
If you have access to a Machinist's Handbook, take a look at the shear strength of the size pins they use ... This is absolutely CRAZY !!! You would be relying on an 1/8 of an inch of hardened steel that is already in a easy to shear position.

PISTOL

 

Yes i agree with your statement...

On edit though, i think there is not an equal chance of shearing a ball at the heck of it before the diameter where the coupler sits, and shearing it at the base where the shank is, although its not impossible it can be sheared from up there as well. As far as the pin ***** go, ppl who buy those and i see i just wanna say R U Nutz?!?!?! a lil bitty pit holding all the trailer weight... uh uh, that cannot be right... nor safe....

Tx

 

On the Convert-a-*****, the roll pin isn't taking that much weight. The shank it sits on, takes it. The trailer hitch (depending on how it is made) will probably stretch/bend and come off the ball, before the pin would shear/bend. The ball would have to be pulled up with a lot of force. Most of the force will be down, not up, unless the trailer is light on the tognue and it bounces on a rough road.

FWIW.

 

The convert-a-***** have like a 2k rating. Even the mfg knows they are crap. The average american knows little or nothing about trailer safety. So they see how the ***** change, think it is neat, and plunk down the cash.

When I bought the drop for my truck I went to the U-Haul looking for a 5-6 inch drop, and asked the guy there if the had one with a 7500# rating, he said theirs were strong enough. Even though the stamp said 3500#...

 

I have seen the frame rip in a wreck and the ball was perfectly fine

 

bend this.

 

Actually, a friend of mine who works for a utilities company was pulling a piece of equipment (can't remember what it was) back to town about 3 weeks ago and they had a big water tank also. They figured it was about 18,000 lbs on a regular style pintle. They must have had a light tongue and some rough roads, but it broke the safety pin and snapped the end off the bolt that the jaw pivots on. Somehow the bolt didn't fall out so it just twisted the jaw out of the way. The trailer tipped on its side and drug them into the ditch via the safety chains and locked up brakes. No injuries so that was good. I should get a picture of the hitch, it's some pretty nasty carnage! I asked him how the trailer was loaded and he said that they (2 other veteran guys riding with him) loaded it like they always did, and the water tank was on the front.

So actually you can bend that


sorryforstealingthreadbutitwasagoodopportunitytosh areastory

 

i wouldnt want to be anywhere close when something like that bends......

 

Just to clarify I don't have the craptacular convert-a-noballs...

I have a class V 5 inch drop bar with a 2" ball on a 1 1/4" shank... which is bigger than the taper below the ball, something I had wondered about.

Thanks for asking TX.

 

Now that leads me to another question

I dont have ANY experience with my rig with bolt on receivers, nor do i know of a class five bein installed in any, I think ive put about three class 4s on fords, and one on a dodge..

Is a class five a 2.5 inch square tube for receiver? or is this just a ford thing for the "towing" package... i dont recall seein 2.5 inch receivers anywhere, and IMHO I think for a 3/4 ton they would be useless, if you need to tow that much weight, go gooseneck, and save the suspension, headaches, and risks for damage that way....

Respectfully

Tx

 

I believe most Class V hitches have a 2-1/2" reciever instead of a 2" receiver. Okay...maybe not most...but at least some. I believe the Reese Class V uses a 2-1/2" receiver.

 

For steel of a given type, hardness and temper more diameter provides more 'strength', but there are HUGE differences due to type, hardness, and temper of steels.