royta

I bought my truck in July of 2004, and it had the original pick up box. If I remember correctly, the rear end was slightly higher than the front just like all 4WD CTD's of that year.

In Jan of 2005, I had a service body installed, a very heavy rear bumper built for it, and a ladder rack installed. Right now, the rear of my truck sits an inch or two below the front. The factory overloads are now slightly touching, and when I go over a speed bump, or a slow dip in a residential street, the rear will bounce no less than three times. I've got to get this truck off those overloads.

Here are some measurements so you can get an idea of how low the rear end actually is. I have the 4 5/8" cast blocks, the ones with the bounce stop platform. The bumpstop mounts to the frame and is 3". I only have 2.5" between the bumpstop and the platform on the spring block. Unfortunately, I have no idea what that measurement was with the factory bed. Anybody out there have a measurement on a stock truck? Here is a link to a pic of the spring block and the spring assembly.

Firestone Ride-Rite bags will not only level it out nicely, but their design should allow them to raise the rear to the factory ride height, which is slightly higher than the front. Then I could raise the front to match the rear, giving it that ever so cool lifted electrical contractor truck look . I have a concern though. I believe (I could be wrong) the bags are only designed to help the springs, not replace them. If I had so much pressure in the bags to raise the rear to factory height (an inch or so above the front), then I'm wondering if the rear springs will actually be suspended by the air bags. In other words, I'm wondering if the bags would be doing 100% of the work, instead of only helping out the springs.

I also would like to get the overall height of the bags too. Both the Ride-Rite 2071's and the Ride-Rite 2220's. Could somebody please measure for me?


Thanks for the help.


-Roy

GOTMEAT

It won't take much pressure to lift that bed. However since you have a static increase in weight on the rear I would go to a spring shop to get some more leaves. You have essentially decreased your spring capacity.

duner

couple of air bags should fix it right up and if the rear end bounces three times you most likely need shocks. good luck

royta

I've thought about the shocks, but I've already removed the bottom mounting bolts on them, and there is A LOT of resistance when cycling them. I was thinking the bouncing was because I'm bouncing off the overloads.

Fueling around

OK lets start with your concern about always having the bags under pressure and assisting the springs.

I mounted my Ride-Rites when the truck was empty. A couple days later the slide-in camper was added and stayed in the pickup ALL summer. I didn't detect any problem. If I did the bags would have gone back. They are designed for 100% duty.

My suggestions is to put the truck (front & rear) at the height you intend to run. Lift the rear axle up to wheel & tire height. Mount the airbags per directions. The directions assume you are starting at the designed ride height

http://www.fsip.com/riderite/applica...ch/dodge.shtml#
I don't have factory overloads so used kit 2071 per the guide.
A buddy of mine wanted to dump the factory overloads, but instead spending $$ to rebuild the spring pack, he installed kit 2220 and cut off the overloads about 2" past the air bag mount.


Shocks? If they're stock, replace them. If aftermarket and a few years old still probably ready for replacement.

Shanajustin

I'm with 'meat on this. A friend of mine runs two 2nd gen CTD's for his auto lift service buisness.

One is a 3/4 ton 2wd with a heavy "Reading" service bed. He had the rear re-sprung to accomodate the weight, which restored stock ride height and cargo capacity. He is very pleased with the result and so was I when I drove the truck for him making deliveries.

The other is a 97 1 ton dually 2wd with a custom 2' stretch in the frame and a VERY heavy 10' steel plate flatbed with a 3 ton hoist crane with an 18' boom. He also had that rear re-sprung and loves it. You just about can't overload that truck. Without the hoist on the truck, it would take more than 4000#'s pin weight to set that truck level. As outfitted with crane it runs down the road smooth and flat, well controlled.

scottsjeeprolet

I had the same problem with my crappy F350 service truck, it has a 4000# crane on one side of the utility body and used to lean really bad, had it to the spring shop 2 times to increase the leafs but no help. Installed the Air lift bags and now the truck is level. truck weighs 11000#. No problems in 3 years.

royta

That makes a lot of sense. The 2220 have three different mounting configurations, depending on the distance between the frame and the axle. It makes sense to lift the truck by the frame, and then mount the bags at the height you want the truck always running at, not mount the bags at the squatted height. What I've gathered so far on another THREAD, my truck is sitting 2.5" low, so if I mounted the bags at the current height, the bags would extended 2.5" more than they needed to be. Thanks for the idea.



Your idea makes a lot of sense too, and has been the reason why I didn't do the bags back in Jan 2005 when I had my truck outfitted with the new body. However, just starting out the business, I only spent money where I had to. I'll call a few spring shops and price out what it would cost to add to the load carrying capacity of my existing spring packs, and how much it would be to replace altogether. Although, air bags might get the same thing done (air or steel - springs are springs), and more than likely much cheaper. Plus, there's the ability to pump them up when I hook a trailer to the hitch.

royta

He probably should have just left them. It's not like they were in the way, or causing any harm.

scottsjeeprolet

i got the AirLift from Jegs for about $300. that's a lot cheaper than the spring shop charged for only one visit.

Fueling around

On a severe bounce the springs would contact. He only wanted bags to support the rear.
The mounting looked good and no regrets after 10 years.
I mave have mispoke on which kit he used. The bag mounted on the overload spring not directly on the axle.

BTW, you do want the bags as far outboard as possible. It gives better control.

royta

I know, that's the problem with the 2220 ride-rite bags. I wonder how much difference it would actually make, compared to the 2071.

TORQUE

I have the Firestone rear air bags(2071) on for 3+years, over top of the overloads. They are great when hauling heavy loads like my trailer, just add or remove air as required, back end never sags down. It rides smooth with the load on, but a little choppy with no weight on, so you may have to deflate bags somewhat when empty.

I usually also have a full load in box, either quad, or dog and firewood, gear, outboard, fuel etc, with 14' boat on boatrack on continually thru summer. I would highly recommend them.

XLR8R

I have overloads on my '98 2500HD service truck, airbags on my '05 2500 service truck: they both do the job, but I like how the airbags work and ride better.

royta

I bought the 2220 Ride Rite airbags. There is a rear brake line valve that is getting in the way of the left air bag. See this THREAD. I'm hoping somebody can lend a hand with the part number needed so I can remove the brake valve.

Thanks.

Roy