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Gooseneck Hitch Questions

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Old 12-01-2008 | 04:25 AM
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TexasHardcore's Avatar
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Gooseneck Hitch Questions

Hey guys, I've been hunting for a Gooseneck Lowboy Trailer for hauling all my old cars and misc stuff around. I've been borrowing my dad's Flatbed Bumper Pull Trailer for the past few years, but we live far apart and I need something of my own, and I want something that my friends can't borrow

My truck has the Reese 5th Wheel Rails in the bed (no hitch). I've been looking at the aftermarket Reese, Curt, Valley, & DrawTite brand Gooseneck Hitch Adapters that pin into the existing 5th Wheel Rails. Just curious if you guys have any issues or concerns with this setup as opposed to something else.

I don't plan to spend alot of money on this, as I'm looking for a cheap trailer that needs some work. I've found a few, but I figure I ought to be prepared should I find myself going to pick one up soon. As for the hitch, I have considered getting a piece of 1/2" steel plate and bolting it to the rails with about 8-10 Grade 8 Bolts, and mounting a ball in the plate. I figure this would be not only stronger than the aftermarket "pin-on" types, but won't have any slop. I don't care about cutting a hole in the floor of the bed, so is there a cheaper/better solution?

One more question... Is there a certain place the axles should be on a trailer to make it more stable? I've seen some heavy equipment trailers with the axles very far back, and most others are centered. Is there a calculation or any guidelines to this? I've found a few trailers that look funky in the pictures, as if the axles seem further back than they should be.
Any input is appreciated. Thanks.
Old 12-01-2008 | 07:05 AM
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The placement of your axles is important for the load of the trailer, but the distance between the forward trailer axle and the aft tow vehicle axle (the bridge) is important as well as it will impact the transfer of weight to the pin/ball. That is why you see many TT's with moveable axles. My 25' transfers around 22% to the town vehicle, my 45' transfer 33% (because the bridge is greater), so I need to load each trailer with that in mind. Just FYI.
Old 12-06-2008 | 11:05 PM
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Regarding the gn plate. I have the rail set up in my dually. The only issue I have with the GN ( I have a Valley) is that it puts me about 2" higher on the top of the ball to the ground vs a box hitch or drop ball. with some stock trailers it can pitch the nose up pretty good. I haven't had any clearance issues. It will also throw more weight on the rear axle and tires. It would all depend on your trailer set up. Some goosenecks are adjustable. I was going to weld a plate as well, but after looking at height they came out the same.
Zero issues with the fifth wheel.

Garry
Old 12-08-2008 | 06:25 PM
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Hey Texas Crew'd to bad all you do is drive a car 99% of the time. Hey bro wheres my bumper.
Old 12-08-2008 | 09:21 PM
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I use a Drawtite GN adaptor on rails, hauled plenty of weight and it has been just fine. It does pitch the nose up a little, but I have a 2wd so it sits perfect for me. Only problem is it can be noisy on bumpy roads.
Old 12-08-2008 | 10:36 PM
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I stopped at a hitch shop to look at their Gooseneck Adapters. Yeah, they make the ball sit pretty high up.

So today I went to the local junkyard and picked a hitch out of a burned F-350. It was a home-built job with 1/2" thick plate bolted through the bedfloor. and the ball was welded to the plate. Very strong, and very heavy.

It just so happens to fit on top of the rails in my bed, so I'm probably going to have a local shop plasma cut some slots, and some tabs, then I'll weld them up and it will be removeable with pins, like the aftermarket adapters. What's also good about it is that it sits a few inches lower than the aftermarket adapters.

Any of you guys with the rail kits and hitches in your truck think you could take a picture of one of the 4 tabs on the hitch that fits into the slots on the rails? I need a measurement of how deep they protrude from the bottom of the base.
Old 12-08-2008 | 10:37 PM
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Also, when I mount this thing. Should the ball be centered directly over the axles? or in front of the axles? If so, how much?
Old 12-08-2008 | 11:58 PM
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I THINK its 6 in foward of the center of the axel but you better check that one.

Rob
Old 12-09-2008 | 05:04 AM
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From: hills of cali forn ya
copy on that- we have a one ton single rear and tow 22,000 with a gooseneck (hide a ball) six inches forward of the rear axle center. puts the drag weight load on center of the axle....


i fyou are doing hay, I woudl adjust the dolly wheels forward about three feet. if you are sticking just to cars, no worries. weight spreads out with movement absorbtion. good luck!

jealous in ny....saw your sig
Old 12-09-2008 | 06:09 PM
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Thanks. Looks like I'll probably sell this plate I have and buy the Draw-tite/Reese plate that fits my rails. Found a local hitch shop that sells it for about $40 less than anyone else. Probably too much work to get the big thick plate plasma cut and tabs welded in to make it removable.
Old 12-09-2008 | 10:54 PM
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From: El Paso, Tx / Ingram, Tx
Dragup, I'll get it this weekend if all goes right. It's hell when our wives drive the trucks.

I've always set mine 3" forward of center.
Old 12-10-2008 | 01:32 AM
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Found a gooseneck trailer in North East TX. Probably going to pick up a drawtite hitch that pins into my rails and head up there to get the trailer.

Thanks for the info guys.
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