Ok guys, I've been lurking in the shadows on here awhile. Posted a few times, but used this forum for answers, always got good ones so I'll try again. In the process of shopping for my first RV. Truck in sig will pull it, although I'll probably add airbags and an Edge w/ Attitude, and exhaust at some time. My big question is, is it possible to have a FW with a cross bed tool box. My tool box sticks up above the rails about 3". It's a long bed truck, and I really don't want to get a new tool box. We're going to a show this weekend to look and I would like some opinions that aren't based on whether or not they make a commission. Not going to go too big on trailer size, probably 26' to 30' range. I've pulled trailers all my life, so experience isn't a big issue. It's also why I would prefer a FW over a TT. Let me know opinions, pros/cons, etc... Thanks in advance. I'll try to be more sociable in the future to get to know everyone better.

 

No.. The 5ver will touch the toolbox in a tight uneven turn. Just ditch the crossover and got with a Toolbox that sits on the truck box floor. I just go one for my sons new truck last week. $40 used. I had to drill out the lock and replace it as there was no keys.

Having said that you could jack the pinbox up to give you clearance but that would make the trailer sit high in the front. I wouldn't do it though.

 

I guess I could put my tool box in my son's truck. Just hate changing things once I've got it set up. Would I benefit from a slider for when I'm backing?

 

My experience with 5th wheels is that they generally sit about 6-8 inches off (above) the side rails. This may or may not give you the clearance you need for your tool box.

Also, I don't know about other types of 5th wheel hitches, but my PullRite's head can be fitted or adjusted with about 5 or 6 different height options. I can't remember exactly without looking.

I would think that with the toolbox being only 3 inches above the side rails, you could rig it without having to go to the more expensive slider hitch.

 

You don't need a slider with the long box. Just get different tool box.

 

Definitely do not try and use an over-the-rails tool box. It may not hit it when level, but just wait for your first excursion up into a fuel stop when you are turned so the corner of the fiver is over the box and you hit the ramp going up into the station. OUCH.

You do not want to get the fiver too high over the rails - - you will all ready be high due to having a 4x4. Need six inches minimum. And, no to the slider with a LB - - don't need it. Be sure to watch what fiver you get - - the pinweight will be critical using a 2500. Extremely easy to go way over the GVWR on the 2500. Load up with fuel in your truck and add whatever else you will carry. Go weigh the truck, then add about 150# for a hitch plus whatever in additional people. Then subtract that number from your rated GVWR - - that is what you have left for pinweight. I think you will be somewhat shocked.

Bob
ps: if you buy a different tool box, consider the RDS tool box/aux fuel tank available at Northern tools. Not a whole lot of room in the tool box but that extra fuel is sure nice on trips. And it sits below the rails. But, you can't put a full sheet of plywood under it. BOO

On edit - - I just reconsidered my "ps" - - forget it. That extra fuel is NOT what you need adding more weight in the bed of the truck. DUH me.

 

Everything "FiverBob" said. A lot of people do not pay attention to the gross weights.

 

While you do need to watch the GVWR with the 2500 there are some things to remember. If you look at the same model year there's on a couple of differences between a 2500 SRW and a 3500 SRW. The 3500 has one extra leaf spring, a different badge on the front, and sticker in the door that has a higher GVWR. This assumes that the comparison is between trucks with the same engine, transmission, and rear axle ratio. By adding air bags and after market shocks there's no difference except on paper and the letter of the law. Your call. I also added the exhaust brake to my 2500. I stay under the GVWR for a 3500 SRW and also watch the GCWR and stay well under that. I've got a about 10,000 miles traveling with this combo this year and I have found the truck and 5th wheel pulls, stops and turns better than my old 29' TT.

 

For 2000, there were no 3500 SRW. If I recall correctly, there's a fair bit of difference between GVWR on a 2500 SRW and 3500 DRW.

 

Most definitely there's a big difference between a SRW and DRW. I'll be a little more specific here. My 2006 Dodge 2500 SRW has a GVWR of 9,000lbs. Everything else being equal the 3500 SRW has a GVWR of 9,900lbs. So, for a couple of hundred dollars I added air bags and new rear shocks and feel very comfortable that I'm not putting undue stress on my truck. I've weighed my truck, truck and 5th wheel as I towed it home from the dealer, and finally weighed it again loaded with our stuff. I'm under the 9,900lbs GVWR for a SRW 3500 and under the 20k GCWR. Could I be pulled over and ticketed for violating my sticker on the door jamb of my truck, yes.

At some point in the future I'll buy a new truck. At that point it'll be a 3500 DRW, no doubt about it. For now I believe I've done enough research about the capabilities of my vehicle to know I'm safe with my load.

 

It's not about capabilities .. . it's about the guy with the red and blue lights on top of his vehicle or the guy writing the insurance policy.

Trust me. . I push the envelope. These trucks will pull anything you can hitch to em. Stopping what you hitch to them is questionable. Dealing with THE MAN is a whole nother story.
Please be careful, be smart.

 

I've got 8.5 inches of clearance and on rare occasions I have used almost all of it!

 

I have a conventional truck tool box and even though I have plenty of clearance going down the road in a strait line, as mentioned, one turn into a fuel stop or rv spot at the wrong angle and your going to be spending a whole lot more in repairing the front corner of your rv than you will be on a different tool box. It's only a couple of bolts so instead of getting a new box, I just take mine out when I tow the rv.

 

Sounds like I need to start shopping a toolbox and doing some weight calculations. Thanks for all the advice. I've got a friend who just bought an 09 F250 and a 40' toy hauler. I told him he was nuts, not enough truck. We aren't looking to go big, just comfortable. I'll do a search, but any help on weight calculations is appreciated.

 

As I said earlier look for a used box. My kids was $40. As for pin weight... The 2500 has very little "usable load" because the weight of the truck is so great. The difference between a 2500 and 3500 is 4 tires on the rear axle and an extra leaf. The brakes are the same, clutch the same, the rear axle (if a standard) the same.The 2500 can actually tow more than a 3500 because the truck is lighter. It cannot carry as much (pin weight) as the rear axle is limited by what the tires can carry. Your tires LT245/75R16E are rated for 3042lbs at 80 psi, if you are close to this you may consider going to LT265?75R16E that are rated for 3415Lbs at 80 psi. While NOTHING, not air bags or extra leafs can legally increase what the door pillar says, many on here have stated that so long as you do not exceed what your tires are rated for you won't be bothered. My current RV has a pin weight that puts me very close to my stock tire limit, so over my GVWR but still under my GAWR so I went to the 265's to have a margin of safety.