Factory towing package and the tekonsha brake controller?
#16
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well im a whipped dog at this point. The trailer checked out fine. installed the conteroller in another truck hooked it up and works fine. The guy helping me miss read the meter. i get nothing out of the prong for the brakes at the bumper. So back to square one
This truck has never pulled anything with brakes and its an 04 I checked all the fuses they are good. The lights work fine. i checked when i manualy pushed the gain the controler is sending volts to the blue wire under the dash to the factory connector but not down to the plug on the bumper. im about to just take it back to dodge to see if they can run it down. I dont want to start splicing wires this is an factory install.
I have also been told that the trailer break setup may be turned off in the truck computer.... man that sounds thin to me.
This truck has never pulled anything with brakes and its an 04 I checked all the fuses they are good. The lights work fine. i checked when i manualy pushed the gain the controler is sending volts to the blue wire under the dash to the factory connector but not down to the plug on the bumper. im about to just take it back to dodge to see if they can run it down. I dont want to start splicing wires this is an factory install.
I have also been told that the trailer break setup may be turned off in the truck computer.... man that sounds thin to me.
#17
With age comes the cage
If your showing 6 volts your hot at the controller, the blue wire from the controller goes to the truck harness then to the back bumper (no computer in that loop).. Any splices for an in bed harness along the way??
Edit for another thought:
The plug at the bumper plugs into the rear harness, Take the factory plug out of the bumper and disconnect it from the rear harness and test the voltage there..maybe a bad or corroded connection..
Edit for another thought:
The plug at the bumper plugs into the rear harness, Take the factory plug out of the bumper and disconnect it from the rear harness and test the voltage there..maybe a bad or corroded connection..
#18
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I did unplug the bumper plug at the rear harness. It appears to have corrosion on it. I assumed that this flat connector was just for the lights so I moved on. The harness is intact and has never been spliced or cut.
By the way I do appreciate all the help you guys are giving me.Thanks!
By the way I do appreciate all the help you guys are giving me.Thanks!
#19
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According to the wiring diagram.
Brake power leaves the controller and goes to the electric brake provision connector (pin 2) Under the dash.
Leaves there as a dark green wire and goes to connector C217 (pin 2).
Continues from there as a dark green wire to the trailer tow connector add-on (pin 7) behind the rear bumper.
Goes from there to the 7-way plug (pin 2) as a blue wire.
Brake power leaves the controller and goes to the electric brake provision connector (pin 2) Under the dash.
Leaves there as a dark green wire and goes to connector C217 (pin 2).
Continues from there as a dark green wire to the trailer tow connector add-on (pin 7) behind the rear bumper.
Goes from there to the 7-way plug (pin 2) as a blue wire.
#20
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According to the wiring diagram.
Brake power leaves the controller and goes to the electric brake provision connector (pin 2) Under the dash.
Leaves there as a dark green wire and goes to connector C217 (pin 2).
Continues from there as a dark green wire to the trailer tow connector add-on (pin 7) behind the rear bumper.
Goes from there to the 7-way plug (pin 2) as a blue wire.
Brake power leaves the controller and goes to the electric brake provision connector (pin 2) Under the dash.
Leaves there as a dark green wire and goes to connector C217 (pin 2).
Continues from there as a dark green wire to the trailer tow connector add-on (pin 7) behind the rear bumper.
Goes from there to the 7-way plug (pin 2) as a blue wire.
#21
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Well good news I found it. *** dodge!!!!!!!! They didn’t hook it up at the factory. There is a blue wire that runs to the plug to the back. Now where do I put this wire? I know I need to run it back in the cab and I guess splice it to one of the wires on the controller or behind the plug that was on the truck that I plugged my p3 into?
#22
With age comes the cage
This is starting to get interesting..
All of the wires blue or otherwise should be in an harness.. the back harness ties into the bumper plug and the front is tied into the under-dash plug (See attached pic) from that plug you tie into the brake controller with a custom harness or use the factory truck harness and tie it to the controller harness..
If the blue wire is not in a harness it leads me to believe this truck did not have the factory tow package and someone added the OEM aftermarket harness to it..Which Would give you a separate blue for brake and red for battery wire to route up front..The B/U on these units is tied into the LR light assembly and the L/R and taillights are tied into the 4 prong which you said was taken out.. could you give us some more input on this...
All of the wires blue or otherwise should be in an harness.. the back harness ties into the bumper plug and the front is tied into the under-dash plug (See attached pic) from that plug you tie into the brake controller with a custom harness or use the factory truck harness and tie it to the controller harness..
If the blue wire is not in a harness it leads me to believe this truck did not have the factory tow package and someone added the OEM aftermarket harness to it..Which Would give you a separate blue for brake and red for battery wire to route up front..The B/U on these units is tied into the LR light assembly and the L/R and taillights are tied into the 4 prong which you said was taken out.. could you give us some more input on this...
![Name: plug.jpg
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#23
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well i guess i would have to agree. Well i just pulled the dealer sticker from when it was new. you are right this was installed by the dealer but they didnt charge me for it so i guess i shouldnt complain.
Now where do i splice it? on the plug from the controler in the photo that would be the blue wire that is coming out of the white clip (that is what is from the P3).....or do i splice it in on the wire that is going into the blue factory plastic get up thats attached to the brakeing switch.(the one that was on the truck)
The 4 prong wasnt taken out i just unplugged it to check it out and it had what i thought was corrosion on it. So i cleaned it up and its in good shape now.
Now where do i splice it? on the plug from the controler in the photo that would be the blue wire that is coming out of the white clip (that is what is from the P3).....or do i splice it in on the wire that is going into the blue factory plastic get up thats attached to the brakeing switch.(the one that was on the truck)
The 4 prong wasnt taken out i just unplugged it to check it out and it had what i thought was corrosion on it. So i cleaned it up and its in good shape now.
#24
With age comes the cage
OK sounds like you have the blue trailer connector in the truck. You could tie the blue wire into the plug itself with the proper spade plug, there might even be a a spare in it with a pig tail (the plug is clipped into place and can be partially removed for inspection).. Or you could or just splice the blue wire to the controller harness itself..
To the right of the white box in the picture is a rubber boot with a round rubber pull cord (engine side) push it into the engine compartment then drill a hole in the plug for the blue wire to go through then reinstall it.. I like to use split wire loom for protection this allows room for more wires to go through in the future as well..
You should have an additional red wire (from the rear harness) with a fuse that needs to go to the battery to supply 12v to the trailer.. you can wire this hot or put a continuous duty relay in the circuit that shuts off with the engine to prevent truck battery drain..
I recommend you solder and heat shrink all connections as it save problems along the side of the road.. Use some di-electric grease on the 4 way connections as well. Any parts store should have a small tube of it
Here is something else for you to think about while your in the "Getting Wired" mode these trucks do not like any heavy or shorted loads on the Trailer Turn or Tail circuits, the fuse don't always catch things in time you might want to consider adding one of these Modulites to the system a pdf of the instruction is on the right side of the link if you want to read them prior to ordering:
http://www.etrailer.com/p-119176.html
The modulite gets it power from a fused battery circuit the trucks 4 way plug in your case would be used to switch the modulite. The modulite output would be wired into the 7 round (Via the flat four) along with the blue/ brake and red/battery wire.
I have an in bed harness for the GN as well:
http://accessories.etrailer.com/sear...7%22&x=17&y=16
Hope this makes sense as the brain is fried tonight
Let me know if you have any more questions
To the right of the white box in the picture is a rubber boot with a round rubber pull cord (engine side) push it into the engine compartment then drill a hole in the plug for the blue wire to go through then reinstall it.. I like to use split wire loom for protection this allows room for more wires to go through in the future as well..
You should have an additional red wire (from the rear harness) with a fuse that needs to go to the battery to supply 12v to the trailer.. you can wire this hot or put a continuous duty relay in the circuit that shuts off with the engine to prevent truck battery drain..
I recommend you solder and heat shrink all connections as it save problems along the side of the road.. Use some di-electric grease on the 4 way connections as well. Any parts store should have a small tube of it
Here is something else for you to think about while your in the "Getting Wired" mode these trucks do not like any heavy or shorted loads on the Trailer Turn or Tail circuits, the fuse don't always catch things in time you might want to consider adding one of these Modulites to the system a pdf of the instruction is on the right side of the link if you want to read them prior to ordering:
http://www.etrailer.com/p-119176.html
The modulite gets it power from a fused battery circuit the trucks 4 way plug in your case would be used to switch the modulite. The modulite output would be wired into the 7 round (Via the flat four) along with the blue/ brake and red/battery wire.
I have an in bed harness for the GN as well:
http://accessories.etrailer.com/sear...7%22&x=17&y=16
Hope this makes sense as the brain is fried tonight
![Laughing](https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/forums/images/smilies/laughing.gif)
#25
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"You should have an additional red wire (from the rear harness) with a fuse that needs to go to the battery to supply 12v to the trailer.. "
You are correct the red wire is already hooked up to the battery and has a 20 amp fuse in it. I hope to get this hooked up tonight and Im sure this will solve the mystery. I know the next one I get I will make sure it’s a factory installed not a dealer installed towing package. I guess I should have asked that question when I bought it new back in 04. However like my Dad always said the lessons you learn hard you never forget.
You are correct the red wire is already hooked up to the battery and has a 20 amp fuse in it. I hope to get this hooked up tonight and Im sure this will solve the mystery. I know the next one I get I will make sure it’s a factory installed not a dealer installed towing package. I guess I should have asked that question when I bought it new back in 04. However like my Dad always said the lessons you learn hard you never forget.
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#26
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Well i hooked up the blue wire to the back of the factory plug (its the green wire) and now the brakes work fine.
thanks for all the help guys i know it has been tiring for you to get bad info from me that makes it hard to help someone, but thanks for sticking with me
thanks for all the help guys i know it has been tiring for you to get bad info from me that makes it hard to help someone, but thanks for sticking with me
#29
With age comes the cage
Nice set up! You must a good pilot if you can land your planes on an enclosed aircraft carrier.. ![Laughing](https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/forums/images/smilies/laughing.gif)
Glad you got the thing working, tell me about the green wire was it a pigtail or did it go into the harness ? Most trucks that I've seen without the factory tow harness do not have the 4 way brake controller plug under the dash.
The aftermarket dodge kit is a good addition for the trucks lacking the factory harness as it gives you the OEM bumper connector that allows you to add an in bed harness down the road if needed..
Now where do we meet for the Free Beer and Pizza..
![Laughing](https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/forums/images/smilies/laughing.gif)
Glad you got the thing working, tell me about the green wire was it a pigtail or did it go into the harness ? Most trucks that I've seen without the factory tow harness do not have the 4 way brake controller plug under the dash.
The aftermarket dodge kit is a good addition for the trucks lacking the factory harness as it gives you the OEM bumper connector that allows you to add an in bed harness down the road if needed..
Now where do we meet for the Free Beer and Pizza..
![CoffeeTime](https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/forums/images/smilies/new1/coffeetime.gif)
#30
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I spliced it in to the green wire that was in the blue connector that was installed on the truck at what I assume was the factory. I purchased a connector for my controller that snapped in to that blue connector under the dash.
I was under the impression this was factory installed towing package. I bought it new off the lot with it installed. I have no idea I’m just glad to have it working.
I was under the impression this was factory installed towing package. I bought it new off the lot with it installed. I have no idea I’m just glad to have it working.
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