My wife and I recently bought a 22ft Pilgrim TT - weights around 5K. About a year ago I put new springs on the truck in my signature, and went with the 3500# springs instead of the 4000# springs in hopes of a smoother ride. When I did that, I decided on a flatbed after installing the springs, and I'd guess it weighs in around 7 to 8 hundred pounds, but thats strictly a guess. Obviously now I wish I have went with the 4K spring option.

When we pulled our camper to Galveston last weekend, I used an equilizer draw hitch and the anti-sway bar only - not the equilizer bars and chains mainly because my camper did not have the latches to hook the chains to. Plus having a dual wheel one ton weight distribution in my mind wasn't an issue. When I'd get in traffic, it seemed even the smallest of cars coming up along side of me would send my trailer into a bit of side to side sway. Nothing that was bad or even noticable by my wife, but I could see it move in he mirror and feel it through the steering. I was expecting movement from going around big rigs, but it suprised me to do that on anything other than a motorcycle. I think I also have some slack I need to address in the steering that will likely help this issue, but I just don't like the camper moving and it causing me to wobble a bit inside my lane.

Will adding airbags help with this in any way? I know they are really for more capacity, but I could see where having them air'ed up tight would take some of the give out of the springs and stiffen everything up.

Just thinking out loud and need some real world advice - thanks!

-Jeff

 

You would get more bang for your buck by just getting the equalizer parts for your trailer & using the equalizer bars. Even on a 1 ton it will make the trailer feel more solid with the truck.

 

With or without the equalizer hitch system is a night and day difference when towing.

With the equalizer all hooked up, the trailer feels like it actually part of the truck. Steering is way better because of the weight transfer. The trailer tracks right behind the truck. Sway is greatly if not completely removed from the equation.

Sway depends on lot's of variables. How the weight in the trailer is distributed, height of the hitch itself, speed, road conditions, weather, etc, etc.

But if your set up properly, your towing experience will be a good one every time. I use my equalizer set up most of the times when I tow my cargo trailer(upwards of 10,000 lbs), it's not needed but it's there so why not use it. Even empty, the trailer is way more stable.

I have airbags also but they are used to keep the truck level more than anything while towing. They don't do anything for the ride quality unless you pull out all the leaf springs and go to an air ride system.

Jeff

 

I agree on the load leveling bars. I have a similar sized camper and the bars make a HUGE difference. Even thou the front may not move much with the camper hooked up or not, the weight does change and the bars will put more weight on the front and that improves the steering.

I also suspect you didn't have enough tension on the sway link.

Airbags will help side to side sway of the truck if you are experiencing that, but they wont do much if anything for the sway of the trailer.

 

I have air bags on my truck as the back is soft. When towing my TT (6,000 lbs) I could always feel some movement, even with 50 psi in the bags. Now that I went with the weight distribution bars (0 psi in the bags) and the Reese dual cam system to keep it locked behind the truck, it does not move, even with semi's going by. MUCH more safe and stable towing.

 

I bottomed the threads out like the sway bar instructions said. It cannot get any tighter!

I appreciate everyone's input. I'll have to find a set of those latches for the tongue and see what happens.

 

I think you'll be pleasantly surprised.

 

You need to run across the scales, first. Then de-rate your trucks capacity accordingly. Solo, with only fuel and the stuff you always carry. Airbags don't enter into this. Though an anti-roll bar on the rear axle would be helpful, IMO.

The trailer also needs to be weighed, empty (full water and propane plus necessary equipt, but not personal items, food, beer, etc). You need the tongue weight, especially.

Then take the pair across the scales in the same manner, with separate readings for all axles when loaded for travel:


(Ron Gratz over at rv.net)

Weighing #1 -- TT attached and Weight Distribution Activated

Let Front Axle Load be "FA1"

Let Rear Axle Load be "RA1"

Let TT Axles Load be "TT1"

Then, while in same position on scales, take
Weighing #2 -- TT attached and Weight Distribution Not Activated

Let Front Axle Load be "FA2"

Let Rear Axle Load be "RA2"

Let TT Axles Load be "TT2"

Then, drive off scales and drop TT. Return to scales and take
Weighing #3 -- TV only -- TT Not Attached

Let Front Axle Load be "FA3"

Let Rear Axle Load be "RA3"

From the above values, you can calculate:

TV weight = FA3 + RA3

Gross Combined Weight = (FA1 + RA1 + TT1)
- should also be equal to (FA2 + RA2 + TT2) if scale weights are correct

TT Weight = Gross Combined Weight - TV Weight

Tongue Weight = (FA2 + RA2) - (FA3 + RA3)

Load Transferred to TT Axles
when WD System in Activated = TT1 - TT2



The goal is to have the front end very close to the same height, and to not have added or subtracted weight from that axle (simplified; in general).

The trailer should be level for all readings, and TW should be between 12-15%.

And, there are two hitch types in WDH offerings: those that resist sway, and those that eliminate it. Between the two there is no comparison. The best hitch, like the best brake controller, is cheap, for when you need them, you REALLY need them.

A PULLRITE or PRO-PRIDE would be my choice (the Hensley I have will be sold at some point, as it does not have the ability to properly adjust for WD).

You need the empty weight of the truck as your baseline for all other measurements (and front fender height).

Good luck

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