Hey guys, I'm looking for information on electric trailer brakes. We bought a 2000 model dual tandem flatbed back in the spring and have just started to use it. You can just barely tell the brakes are holding with the box at full force. I checked all connections, but the trailer is still practically new, so that's not the problem. My box works great on other trailers, so I know that's not it.<br><br>We looked through the back of the drum covers and the shoes don't look worn much at all. I did see an adjuster when I looked in, so we jacked the trailer up and tightened the adjuster until the wheels started to show some friction when we spun them. This seemed to help the braking force a little bit. However, when we jacked up the same wheel again, it seemed to be totally free again.<br><br>So, do I need to adjust the brakes several times until I get them where they need to be, or am I missing something? I've never had to adjust our other trailers, but none of them have the 10,000 lb. axles like this one, so maybe the setup is different?<br><br>Thanks in advance.

 

Sounds like one or more of the wheels have open circuits. You need to verify voltage at each wheel with the brake controller on. Also verify you have the same voltage at all of the wheels. You may also have a bad wire(s) that are not transferring the necessary voltage to the wheel(s).<br>Got a voltmeter?<br><br>Chris

 

Like Chris said, check the voltages at each wheel. If the voltages are all low or intermittent, it could be simply a weak ground of the circuit (enough to run the lights, but not the brakes). The brakes pull more ampage than the lights, so a weak ground shows up there first. Be sure the ground has a good clean connection and is tight. Every GN or flatbed tounge pull I've ever bought I have had to ground. Most rely on the ball to make contact for ground, so I always run the trailer gound wire to a spot on the trailer chasis. HTH.

 

Thanks guys. I've got a multimeter, so I'll check the voltage at all wheels tonight and I'll let you know what I find. It does have a frame ground up on the neck, but I'll check it and make sure it's in good shape.

 

Another quick test is with a compass. Have someone hit the manual brake control and hold the compass near the wheel. Does it move the same amount on each wheel? <br><br>If you have the Jordan controller, it will tell you how much current your brake circuits are pulling. Real quick test to see that all magnets are pulling current. You can have voltage to the magnet, but have an open circuit, hence no magnet action.

 

Fiver Bob,<br>That's a great idea about the compass. I'm gonna write that one down for future reference. ;D<br><br>Chris

 

[quote author=Stamey link=board=11;threadid=17088;start=0#160318 date=1058318357]<br>Fiver Bob,<br>That's a great idea about the compass. I'm gonna write that one down for future reference. ;D<br><br>Chris<br>[/quote]<br><br>Luv that ole KISS principle, Chris. :-*<br>Happy Trails.

 

One thing that did not get mentioned.... I almost doubled my brake power but going over the trailer wiring system and soldering in place of the squeeze connectors. Also look at the size of the wires, could be just too small to carry the juice, especially on a long trailer. I am thinking of hooking up a jumper cable plug for the brake wires to keep it separate from the main pigtail and using heavier wire.

Something else I ran into. Check to see what the amperage draw is on the trailer and then check the wiring on the truck under the dash, see if you have the 15 amp system or the 30 amp system. If the trailer pulls 20 amp and the truck is wired for 15 amp that can cut the power greatly. My '99 has the 15 amp system. At some point they raised it to 30 amp.

 

HID's point of the current drawn is so accurate. I have the 3-1/2&quot; x 12 brakes. They draw right at 3 amps each magnet. So, when I push the button on my Jordan I am looking at 11.8amps. Then I know all four magnets are pulling the correct current. This does not mean the brakes are working due to some other malfunction, but at least I know the magnets are working. My normal hard stop requires about 7.8amps. It will lock up at 25mph on hard surface with 8.4amps.

 

I'm not much of an electrical guy at all (just ask my wife ), but I know a thing or two about gears and levers... You mentioned that you adjusted the brakes out to a point where you noticed increased friction, and they seemed to respond a little better, but upon re-inspection they were totally free? I don't hear anything electrical there, it's something mechanical. Examples could be the adjuster is/are shot, allowing them to relax, or that as someone else has mentioned, the pads are shot, i.e. glazed. Have the brakes ever worked well? Was the trailer delivered, or did you pull it home? I would almost bet the pads are glazed over, and you are just not seeing any braking force from them. Sort of like relying on ice to slow you down... Been there, done that, got the T-shirt too...

 

sounds like time to pull the wheels for manual inspection. Then trace it to the truck from there. Check/grease the bearings when you are in there. Retorque lug nuts after a few hundred miles (if u pull the wheels off the hubs)

 

[quote author=FiverBob link=board=11;threadid=17088;start=0#161124 date=1058481037]<br>HID's point of the current drawn is so accurate. I have the 3-1/2&quot; x 12 brakes. They draw right at 3 amps each magnet. So, when I push the button on my Jordan I am looking at 11.8amps. Then I know all four magnets are pulling the correct current. This does not mean the brakes are working due to some other malfunction, but at least I know the magnets are working. My normal hard stop requires about 7.8amps. It will lock up at 25mph on hard surface with 8.4amps.<br>[/quote]<br><br>Bob,<br>Do you mean volts? I don't know about the Jordan, but my Prodigy displays voltage.<br><br>Chris

 

The Jordan 2020 has a built in Ammeter. I does display the amout of Amps that is being sent to the trailer. The harder you break the more it sends. Some info on it Jordan 2020. <br><br>Kyle

 

<br><br>That's cool. I have seen few devices that have an ammeter in them except for my multimeter, of course.<br>Since I hadn't seen it before I just had to verify there was no confusion.<br><br>Thanks,<br>Chris