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Double rig ready to roll

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Old 08-22-2012 | 04:37 PM
  #31  
Busboy's Avatar
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From: On the Farm, Manitoba
Thanks all for the input, I was just curious as to what weights you were tagging on. My 5ver is 36ft just under 14000lbs GVWR and has a 12 inch I beam frame so it would be possible to build a hitch strong enough to handle the tandem dump trailer as the trailer is rated at 7000lb GVWR but would only be at around 5000lbs and would put me right at the legal length limit of 66ft, my concern would be the tag trailer hitch bouncing and taking pin weight off the 5ver then the whole rig becomes unstable. Guess I could run with full tanks in the 5ver but those things and the fact that one province I would have to pass through doesn't allow towing double so it would be night runs then you have the deer and moose factor.
Old 08-22-2012 | 05:02 PM
  #32  
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From: Isanti, MN
Originally Posted by Busboy
Thanks all for the input, I was just curious as to what weights you were tagging on. My 5ver is 36ft just under 14000lbs GVWR and has a 12 inch I beam frame so it would be possible to build a hitch strong enough to handle the tandem dump trailer as the trailer is rated at 7000lb GVWR but would only be at around 5000lbs and would put me right at the legal length limit of 66ft, my concern would be the tag trailer hitch bouncing and taking pin weight off the 5ver then the whole rig becomes unstable. Guess I could run with full tanks in the 5ver but those things and the fact that one province I would have to pass through doesn't allow towing double so it would be night runs then you have the deer and moose factor.
I highly doubt that pulling a work trailer as the second in a recreation double is legal anywhere. Leave a trail of crumbs so we can find you when they put you in the dungeon and throw away the key.
Old 08-22-2012 | 06:25 PM
  #33  
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From: On the Farm, Manitoba
Originally Posted by j_martin
I highly doubt that pulling a work trailer as the second in a recreation double is legal anywhere. Leave a trail of crumbs so we can find you when they put you in the dungeon and throw away the key.
being I am retired for almost 10 years I don't have any "work" trailers, all my trailers are for personal recreational use only, I just have different hobbies than most people.
Old 08-22-2012 | 11:18 PM
  #34  
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From: Nebraska
I wanted to put surge brakes on the boat trailer but won't work with the friction sway control. Had to choose one so I chose to keep it all going straight and put the sway control on. Pulling 5000 behind would be a definite braking issue.
Old 08-23-2012 | 04:34 AM
  #35  
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From: Isanti, MN
Originally Posted by dodgebob03
I wanted to put surge brakes on the boat trailer but won't work with the friction sway control. Had to choose one so I chose to keep it all going straight and put the sway control on. Pulling 5000 behind would be a definite braking issue.
I put electric brakes on the boat trailer, and use an emitter follower transistor amplifier to drive them from the fiver brake circuit. (I have a 2 axle controller) The brakes are slightly oversize, so the 2 volt drop through the amplifier is about right to synchronize the braking.

When I can afford to put a decent brake controller in the truck (MaxBrake) I'll wire the second trailer through a resistor to the brake circuit in the fiver.

Ain't no way I'd put surge brakes on a second trailer.
Old 08-23-2012 | 02:39 PM
  #36  
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From: On the Farm, Manitoba
Originally Posted by j_martin
Ain't no way I'd put surge brakes on a second trailer.
I have to agree with you on that, I'm not a fan of surge brakes at the best of times. I came across a chart that listed what brakes a trailer needs and the surge brake was only good to 3500lbs.

Pulling 5000 behind would be a definite braking issue.
The tandem dump has brakes on both axles and my 2011 3500 has an integrated factory brake controller capable of 4 axles, since the dealer replaced the controller it's working well.

Even still I'm not convinced I want to do it.
Old 08-24-2012 | 01:27 AM
  #37  
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From: Nebraska
Originally Posted by j_martin
I put electric brakes on the boat trailer, and use an emitter follower transistor amplifier to drive them from the fiver brake circuit. (I have a 2 axle controller) The brakes are slightly oversize, so the 2 volt drop through the amplifier is about right to synchronize the braking.

When I can afford to put a decent brake controller in the truck (MaxBrake) I'll wire the second trailer through a resistor to the brake circuit in the fiver.

Ain't no way I'd put surge brakes on a second trailer.
Do you have problems with water in the trailer brakes? No rust?
Old 08-24-2012 | 09:21 AM
  #38  
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From: On the Farm, Manitoba
Originally Posted by dodgebob03
Do you have problems with water in the trailer brakes? No rust?
I helped my brother in law change a damaged axle on his tandem boat trailer it had disc brakes on it, a good idea I think if you are going to be putting the axle in and out of the water.
Old 08-24-2012 | 11:53 AM
  #39  
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From: Isanti, MN
Originally Posted by Busboy
I helped my brother in law change a damaged axle on his tandem boat trailer it had disc brakes on it, a good idea I think if you are going to be putting the axle in and out of the water.
I asked about that when I bought them.
1. I won't be dunking em in salt water, so it's really not much worse than driving in the rain.
2. A little rust won't hurt the brake parts. Water won't unless they never dry out. First stop after retrieving a boat will dry them out. Electrics are waterproof.
3. All my wiring and splicing is waterproof.
4. I have to disconnect the brakes anyway when I drop the boat, or the trailer is jumping and sliding when moving about the landing and parking lot empty.

Same with lights. Waterproof TrukLite lights wired properly. I leave them on so I can find the boat trailer underwater at night.

I appreciate your concern.
Old 08-25-2012 | 01:54 AM
  #40  
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From: Nebraska
Thanks for the info. I'll check out electric brakes. I know some of the disc sets are stainless. A little pricey though but I would really like brakes on it.
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