Heres my thoughts
you just bought a real expensive truck, to just trade it wouldnt be finacially wise. The truck itself is the same, The diffrences 2, wheels and i believe the brakes may be diffrent, im not even sure on that one. What i would recommend is upgrading the truck and getting it reregistered at a higher weight, Upgrade brakes, Tires, and so on and then there ya go. No problems it will do it saftly and legally.

 

Do it but with right tires.

 

The comments about the 2500 not having sufficent suspension, frame, brakes, axle, etc. are off the mark because there are no significant differences between the 2500 and 3500 in these areas. However, the four rear tires on a 3500 do amount to a pretty significant difference if you are over the capacity of the two on a SRW! If you are going to cut it close you need to get everything weighed to be sure. You will obvioulsy be over the GVWR but the critical factor will be the tire loading and you need to be sure that you are at least well within this rating if nothing else.

 

The first thing I did when I picked up this 5er was went home loaded it up and went to the scales.

Total gross - 20780 (truck/5er)
Total truck - 10260
rear truck - 5660
front truck - 4600

I am only 780#s over factory specs for total.
My tires are rated at 3195# per tire.

It is obvious a lot of engineering went into this 2006 model by Forest River to balance out the pin weight. Pin weight of this on is only 100#s (unloaded) more that my 2004 Sprinter.

 

I pull a 35' gn flatbed 24000 gvwr for a living in a hotshot business. It is my small opinion that you would not feel comfortable driving that rig. I would suggest you find a friend are someone with that same setup and see about a test drive.

 

Just to add to the confussion, I have a 2001 QD 4x4 - my owners manual says that for a 2500 and 3500 4x4 QD the max combined weight is 20,000 lbs with a 5-speed regardless of the RA ratio. The Autos are even less. So if my rig is weighing in at 7200 lbs then I should be able to haul 12,800 lbs and still have alot of cushion on the tires - no need to push the safety factors. Point is this - dually don't matter - same gross. Also of note, if it is a 3500 manual tranny, the users manual says use an exhaust brake for all loads over 10,000 lbs. Your brakes system on your outfit is more important then just being able to move it. If your outfit is pushing you, then you need to adjust those trailor brakes so they are doing more of the work. They just might not be working either - funny how those wires seem to get damaged under there - hate them field mice. Any one using one of these exhaust brakes?

 

Point is this - dually don't matter - same gross.

The max combined weight has little to do with tire ratings. Tire ratings come into play when determining maximum pin weight, and that is usually the limiting factor when towing a 5th wheel. For max. combined weight, 'dually don't matter', but for gross vehicle weight (which determines max. pin weight) dually does matter.

 

I don't think really any part of the truck is dangerously strained unless you fully load it down, but the whole issue of stability is rather shaky with that much weight on a SRW. IIRC the rule of thumb is if over 12k then go with a dually.

 

Check this out. It is a scary story.

http://www.glamisdunes.com/invision...showtopic=24262

 

For some reason the link is not working, sorry.

 

I think you copied it as text from a site like this one that shortens it, instead try to right click over it and copy link location.

 

the biggest disadvantage to this dually thing is that you cannot go thru car washes--drive thru banks--and you have to break two paths in snow with the duallys. i had one and don't think i would ever buy another unless i was going to be hotshotting everyday.
2500-3500 i thought was not really muck more than a couple extra rear leaf springs? i have used the firestone airbags and love em. back to your normal ride when your not towing by just letting the air out of them

 

2500-3500 i thought was not really muck more than a couple extra rear leaf springs

The difference between the 2500 and 3500 SRW is indeed only extra rear leaf springs, but the difference between a 2500 and 3500 DRW is a lot of extra capacity because of the two additional tires... so one has to be clear exactly what you are talking about when you say '3500'. Dodge's single rear wheel '3500' marketing gimmick has been responsible for a lot of confusion. A 3500 SRW is really what used to be called the 2500 Camper Special, meaning a 2500 with heavier springs, and a 3500 used to mean DRW. Dodge started calling the 2500 Camper Special package a 3500 SRW and lot of confusion has followed. So, the issue is not so much 2500/3500 these days, but SRW vs. DRW. Whether you need the latter or not depends on the numbers, as always.

 

there is no doubt that the truck can pull it, but like everyone else says its stopping i've grossed over 54k last year after the hurricanes with my last ctd(95 3500 4x4 5spd) way overloaded but you can move it

 

I 've heard of some guy pulling 43000 with a 2500 for 3500 miles he,he. Kudos to ridofpowerstoke for that pull. I say it depends on you, I would't trust some people to pull pop-up camper with a 3500 drw. If your used to pulling trailers I say do it. I pull that almost everyday for work and then some...