brake and bearing help needed
#1
brake and bearing help needed
hi all,
we have a problem and need help.we pull a trailer that weighs just over 14000lbs.2 axle.we replaced all brakes and bearings last summer.we changed hubs from the lowboy hubs to a 8 lug hub so we could run run radial tires like on our dodge truck.we were not getting power to the brakes and recently rewired the brakes.we are getting full power,checked with a meter,to the brakes.we do have a ground problem somewhere with the lights.
now this is the problem.the brakes are generating so much heat that the grease in the hubs is turning to a liquid.we have had 2 bearing related failures the last two trips out.i thought the bearings were going bad.but,after the last heat build up after an eight mile pull with 15 or so traffic lights and lots of stop and go city traffic i wasn't sure.i let it cool down and then turned the brake controller all the way down.finished the last part of the trip about 45 miles.the hubs were cold to the touch.the brakes are working as the pads are half worn down in less than a year.
anyone have any ideas as to why we are building up so much heat.i am at a loss.
thanks,
mike
we have a problem and need help.we pull a trailer that weighs just over 14000lbs.2 axle.we replaced all brakes and bearings last summer.we changed hubs from the lowboy hubs to a 8 lug hub so we could run run radial tires like on our dodge truck.we were not getting power to the brakes and recently rewired the brakes.we are getting full power,checked with a meter,to the brakes.we do have a ground problem somewhere with the lights.
now this is the problem.the brakes are generating so much heat that the grease in the hubs is turning to a liquid.we have had 2 bearing related failures the last two trips out.i thought the bearings were going bad.but,after the last heat build up after an eight mile pull with 15 or so traffic lights and lots of stop and go city traffic i wasn't sure.i let it cool down and then turned the brake controller all the way down.finished the last part of the trip about 45 miles.the hubs were cold to the touch.the brakes are working as the pads are half worn down in less than a year.
anyone have any ideas as to why we are building up so much heat.i am at a loss.
thanks,
mike
#2
The only time I have seen someting similar to what your explaining is when the brakes them selves were adjusted to tight and were dragging a little. Not sure which axles your running but see if there is an adjuster below the axle on the backing plate!
Good Luck No Fires
Good Luck No Fires
#3
more info on axels and hubs would help. you mentioned a ground problem with lights. ARE YOU SURE THIS IS NOT RELATED TO BRAKE PROBLEM. do you feel the brakes coming on and off, are your stop lights going off and staying off( bad switch or adjustment can switch brakes on/off rapidly causing overheat but you can't feel it. this would be my frist guess).
Clark
Clark
#4
The best thing to do when having problems with overheating electric trailer brakes is to drop a tap in the power line to the trailer brake actuators and watch the voltage as you drive.
Most often it will be a situation whereby the controller is bleeding just enough current to actuate the wheel solenoids enough that they will drag the brakes. When your problem quit after turning down the controller, that pretty much confirms what I suspect.
To fix the problem may require replacing the controller. But, first check the gravity/inertia adjuster on the controller to be sure the controller shuts off at rest on level ground. Then try it without the trailer, but with the voltmeter attached on a test run typical of where you drive.
If the controller is fairly old, replace it with one of the newer solid state type that sense both the actuation of the brake light switch on your brake pedal, and inertia. Those will not turn on by themselves on hilly ground, and actually require pressing the brake pedal before the controller will kick in. If by chance you have one of those old hydraulic brake line tap actuated type, toss it. They develop a condition over time whereby the actuator will air develop a fluid lock and hold the trailer brakes on ever so slightly on a random basis.
Most often it will be a situation whereby the controller is bleeding just enough current to actuate the wheel solenoids enough that they will drag the brakes. When your problem quit after turning down the controller, that pretty much confirms what I suspect.
To fix the problem may require replacing the controller. But, first check the gravity/inertia adjuster on the controller to be sure the controller shuts off at rest on level ground. Then try it without the trailer, but with the voltmeter attached on a test run typical of where you drive.
If the controller is fairly old, replace it with one of the newer solid state type that sense both the actuation of the brake light switch on your brake pedal, and inertia. Those will not turn on by themselves on hilly ground, and actually require pressing the brake pedal before the controller will kick in. If by chance you have one of those old hydraulic brake line tap actuated type, toss it. They develop a condition over time whereby the actuator will air develop a fluid lock and hold the trailer brakes on ever so slightly on a random basis.
#5
hi all,
thanks for the replys.the axles are dexter 7000lb torsion.we can feel the brakes coming on and off.it just won't stop the trailer.it will slow it down a little,but the truck brakes are actually stopping the trailer.the controller is tekonsia sentinnial (sp) inertia controller.it is about 6 years old.we did think there was a ground problem with the brakes,which is why we had them rewired.we run the controller on full power to try to get some brake out of it.i will try to hook up a meter and see what happens.i also may switch the controller from one dodge to the other.i have a new prodigy in it.
thanks again,
mike
thanks for the replys.the axles are dexter 7000lb torsion.we can feel the brakes coming on and off.it just won't stop the trailer.it will slow it down a little,but the truck brakes are actually stopping the trailer.the controller is tekonsia sentinnial (sp) inertia controller.it is about 6 years old.we did think there was a ground problem with the brakes,which is why we had them rewired.we run the controller on full power to try to get some brake out of it.i will try to hook up a meter and see what happens.i also may switch the controller from one dodge to the other.i have a new prodigy in it.
thanks again,
mike
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