Replacing power steering pump, I have a few questions
#1
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Replacing power steering pump, I have a few questions
Well my power steering is pretty much shot. Once warm, steering at slow speeds is darn near impossible from a super stiff wheel, or as I like to call it, "armstrong steering" . I went down to the local NAPA and they had pumps with or without a reservoir. I looked at it tonight and it looks like I could swap my reservoir off of my old pump onto the new one that comes without it. Its $130 for the reservoirless pump which isn't too bad IMO. Can I do the swap or is there more to it?
Thanks,
NoSparkplugs
Thanks,
NoSparkplugs
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Try this before you replace it. Start the truck and run it for about a minute. Then drain the reservoir by removing the return line at the steering box. Replace the line at the box and then remove the other end and install an inline filter. If nobody local sells the power steering filter you can get by with an inline one for an automatic transmission. This will collect the debris/fileings that are fouling up the pump causing it to bypass and in turn causing the hard steering. Get the filter that looks like an inline gasoline filter, not the tiny one that slips inside the hose. You will need that filter anyhow even if you replace the pump. My truck had the pump replaced just before I bought it. It went bad 10,000 miles later. I replaced the pump and didn't install the filter. It started acting just as like yours is acting. I added the filter and was lucky enough to save it before any major damage was done. Pump with reservoir came from www.rockauto.com for around $85US & the PS filter is available from them. It's the higher priced one of course. Oh, and I refilled the system with synthetic ATF.
#3
Originally Posted by Trebor
Try this before you replace it. Start the truck and run it for about a minute. Then drain the reservoir by removing the return line at the steering box. Replace the line at the box and then remove the other end and install an inline filter. If nobody local sells the power steering filter you can get by with an inline one for an automatic transmission. This will collect the debris/fileings that are fouling up the pump causing it to bypass and in turn causing the hard steering. Get the filter that looks like an inline gasoline filter, not the tiny one that slips inside the hose. You will need that filter anyhow even if you replace the pump. My truck had the pump replaced just before I bought it. It went bad 10,000 miles later. I replaced the pump and didn't install the filter. It started acting just as like yours is acting. I added the filter and was lucky enough to save it before any major damage was done. Pump with reservoir came from www.rockauto.com for around $85US & the PS filter is available from them. It's the higher priced one of course. Oh, and I refilled the system with synthetic ATF.
I will 2nt that one!!!! what i did when my'n became harder to stear at a idle is suck the fluid out of the reservoir and refilled it,drove it for a week and did it again! worked like a charm.........the filter idea is a way good idea tho!
trebof! do you have a link to the proper filter to install in the pump?
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Well I bought the pump anyways. When I brought the truck home the steering went hard all of a sudden and I checked the reservoir and it was bone dry . So I think the damage has already been done. But I will do the filter idea on the new pump to keep it happy and smooth . So just splice a small auto tranny filter on the return line and I'm good to go?
Thanks
Thanks
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Yes, here is the link:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/cata...a=FR701-20FLT2
Hope that works. It is a Cardone Part number 20FLT2 probably available at other places. I'm sure that number can be crossed. It's a magnetic inline filter. The pump has an internal magnet but can only hold so much, then the particles start to circulate and cause problems.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/cata...a=FR701-20FLT2
Hope that works. It is a Cardone Part number 20FLT2 probably available at other places. I'm sure that number can be crossed. It's a magnetic inline filter. The pump has an internal magnet but can only hold so much, then the particles start to circulate and cause problems.
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Originally Posted by NoSparkplugs
So just splice a small auto tranny filter on the return line and I'm good to go?
Thanks
Thanks
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Well I picked up the pump today and its the wrong one. I thought I'd be able to swap the old reservoir onto the new one but this one is completely different. The only other one NAPA has is the one with the reservoir so I guess I'll go exchange/pay the difference for it tomorrow.
Also I looked into a in-line auto tranny filter and they have it... for $57! . I'm going to look around since that seems pretty steep.
Also I looked into a in-line auto tranny filter and they have it... for $57! . I'm going to look around since that seems pretty steep.
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Ok so I got the right pump but there is one slight problem. The old pump has this gear type thing on the shaft that is driven by the assembly in front of the pump (I'm not exactly sure what its called haha). Anyways my new NAPA pump doesnt have this little gear on the end of it and it looks like the old one has this thing pressed on? I guess I'll have to find a puller of some sort to get it off and transfer it onto the new pump.
#9
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I bought a new pump from advanced auto (never had to put it on yet) but it came with a bolt and nut to pull the gear off and put it on. All it is is a full threaded grade 8 square head bolt. Instructions came with it. Did you have to pull the vaccum pump off too?
#10
Originally Posted by DISLSMOKE
I bought a new pump from advanced auto (never had to put it on yet) but it came with a bolt and nut to pull the gear off and put it on. All it is is a full threaded grade 8 square head bolt. Instructions came with it. Did you have to pull the vaccum pump off too?
Ya agree! take your old pump back to napa and repeat, "it for a diesel" and.......maybe what in line for some one ho has been there for a will and can look thing up better in the book! THAT GAVE YOU THE WRONG ONE AGAIN!
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If the vacuum pump is the original one your pump should look like this:
http://www.rockauto.com/ref/Cardone/...tml?208000.jpg
This is a Cardone #208000
The newer version that came on the intercooled trucks was a 208001
http://www.rockauto.com/ref/Cardone/...tml?208001.jpg
Note the difference on the shafts.
It would be a great idea to take your old pump to the NAPA store to compare and leave for the core exchange.
http://www.rockauto.com/ref/Cardone/...tml?208000.jpg
This is a Cardone #208000
The newer version that came on the intercooled trucks was a 208001
http://www.rockauto.com/ref/Cardone/...tml?208001.jpg
Note the difference on the shafts.
It would be a great idea to take your old pump to the NAPA store to compare and leave for the core exchange.
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Well I'm getting more and more frustrated with this thing . My new pump looks like the first one in Trebors post and my old one looks like the second one in his post.
I told them WITH a reservoir WITH intercooler and they still give me the wrong pump . The guys at Napa never said anything about a core but I'm taking the new pump, and my original back and pointing out the keyed shaft and getting them to get me the RIGHT one. God I hate getting parts for my truck, seems like the world is hung up on gassers and the diesels get the short end of the stick.
I told them WITH a reservoir WITH intercooler and they still give me the wrong pump . The guys at Napa never said anything about a core but I'm taking the new pump, and my original back and pointing out the keyed shaft and getting them to get me the RIGHT one. God I hate getting parts for my truck, seems like the world is hung up on gassers and the diesels get the short end of the stick.
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After you finally get the correct pump remember 2 things:
1. Lube the shaft with Dextron or light wt motor oil.
2. Do not force the pump into the vacuum pump body. Slide it in with a very slight amount of side jiggling. Do not force it if it does not seat. The drive end may not be lined up properly. NEVER draw it up using the bolts especially if the gap is greater than the drive tabs at the end of the shaft.
1. Lube the shaft with Dextron or light wt motor oil.
2. Do not force the pump into the vacuum pump body. Slide it in with a very slight amount of side jiggling. Do not force it if it does not seat. The drive end may not be lined up properly. NEVER draw it up using the bolts especially if the gap is greater than the drive tabs at the end of the shaft.
#14
Originally Posted by Trebor
After you finally get the correct pump remember 2 things:
1. Lube the shaft with Dextron or light wt motor oil.
2. Do not force the pump into the vacuum pump body. Slide it in with a very slight amount of side jiggling. Do not force it if it does not seat. The drive end may not be lined up properly. NEVER draw it up using the bolts especially if the gap is greater than the drive tabs at the end of the shaft.
1. Lube the shaft with Dextron or light wt motor oil.
2. Do not force the pump into the vacuum pump body. Slide it in with a very slight amount of side jiggling. Do not force it if it does not seat. The drive end may not be lined up properly. NEVER draw it up using the bolts especially if the gap is greater than the drive tabs at the end of the shaft.
To add to the previse statement if you cant get them to line up and the pump is not flush with the vac. pump, do this!
HOLD the manule fuel shut off lever (so that the truck can't start) and then hold the pump firmly will you have a buddy bump the started till the pump falls in!
Do not force it with the bolts! you will brake the vac. pump and ......you realy don't want to explain to your napa store what a vac.pump is......let olone what it would caust$$$$$$$
#15
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Originally Posted by Trebor
It would be a great idea to take your old pump to the NAPA store to compare and leave for the core exchange.
Hijack off - now back to your original thread.