NJTman

I'm installing a power distribution block in my 92, due to the stories of you guys with your headlights going out on you.

With Jim Lane's awesome sticky.... adding relays to your headlights... I figured I'd go one step further, and add a distribution center to run a few different things off of, such as my plow controller, a nice set of fog lights and a few other misc items, I'd like to get off of my battery cable ends.

So today... I installed my distribution block. Went with a "Blue Seas Systems fuse block with a 6 ato circuit setup. I like having a universal ground, that this block has, as again to not clog up the batter cable ends with miscellaneous wires. The block requires either 4 or 6 gauge wire leading to it, so I opted for the 4 gauge, since it's a little heavier. I mounted the one end to the block, and the other to one of the extra bolt locations where the truck's original Negative lead bolts to. There were 2 open locations, so I just randomly picked one of them. I cleaned the surface prior to install, and removed the trucks negative cable and cleaned it as well.... while I was there.

The power distribution block requires a fuse to "protect" the block, but I haven't found one as of yet. A 4 gauge, 12 v 125A (replaceable fuse) fuse-holder is just not really common to find in a local parts store. If you guys have any leads on something, I'd appreciate a link... Temporarily, it's just getting wired to the battery, and I'm sure it will be fine.


Today, I got the block in and up and running. Tomorrow, weather permitting, I'm going to rewire my headlights with Jim's relay setup, and rewire my plow lights to work independent from a separate switch in the cab. This ensures that I'm not taxing the system, or my headlight switch.


What blocks have you installed, and what have you used them for ?

Thanks

T.

slatemd

Looks nice there Sparky!

j_martin

Here's where I get my truck wiring stuff.

Del City

Fuses and holders (up to 500 amps)

I plan to do the same thing to my D350. Looking for a junkyard aux fuse box though. The auto ones probably won't stand up to the salt under the hood in this state, and the marine ones are expensive.

delsilver

Blue Seas designs for the Marine Industry. Go to any marine parts supplier and they will probably have something on the shelf or will be able to order it for you. go to http://bluesea.com/category/81 should take you direct to circuit protection. If not go to www.bluesea.com then click on circuit protection and you will see fuses and fuse blocks as well as circuit breakers if you want to go that way. you can get up to a 750 amp fuse and block or a circuit breakerup to 200 amps.
Once you have decided on what you want if your local sources don't have it there several online stores you can order from
Hope this helps
Del

NJTman

Thanks Guys...



What a great addition to the truck, as it makes all the wires that are small gauge and used for accessories, or as in my case my headlight relays, so much easier to install and keep neat. I hated having those wires leading off of the battery terminal and now I'm able to remove them.


Here's a shot of my new headlight relays that I just installed today, as per Jim Lane's Sticky recommendation. This is a MUST DO UPRGRADE, even if you don't put a distribution block it, it's still worth doing the HL relays.


T.

carrnutt

Try Audio shops They use those for installing Amps.

Looks good T.

KRB

NJTman, where'd you get your relays? I remember Jim lamenting about all the cheap knock offs.

BTW - I installed a Painless Box when I first got the truck. It had 6 connections. I should have doubled that...

NJTman

They're 30 amp Hella units from Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/HELLA-00351008...4645888&sr=1-2

I bought 2 extra to keep in the truck @ all times.... just in case I need them. Since they're standard issue with Hella's lighting packages, I thought they'd be ok to use.

Nice thing is that it doesn't have the 5th tab in the middle, therefore not clogging up the space below the relay. Works perfect, just as it should. Hope it lasts as long as a bosch unit.


Why ? How many electrical extra's do you have ? Seems to me I'm going to have a difficult time just filling the 6 I have in the Blue seas unit.



T.

NJTman

Thanks. I'll do that.(audio shop).


I need to relocate the relays, and fine tune their placement. Too close for comfort, as I'd like to spread them out just a bit. (relays)



T.

slatemd

"as I'd like to spread them out just a bit. (relays)"

He he he he.

KRB

Spot light, CB, Trans cooler fan, trailer brakes.

One is a key on only.

I still want to add some power ports to the cab. Just like to have a few extra open for future stuff.

KRB

Did you get the pig tails too or make your own?

NJTman

I made my own, although I found the pigtails afterwords.

http://www.amazon.com/12-VDC-5-PIN-R.../ref=de_a_smtd

Problem with the pigtails is that they do not specify what gauge wire you're using, and I wanted maximum voltage to the relays, by using 12 gauge wire. You don't need the 12 g wire for the trigger, so I cant imagine that they'd come correct for my application.

so I bought these instead (thanks to Jim lane)

http://www.amazon.com/Non-Insulated-...733213&sr=1-16

and these:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i00_details

But don't buy the "ECONOMY" versions. One dude did, and they melted on him.....although, I wonder what "HE" did wrong

j_martin

I bought some cheapos off'n eBay and what looked like 14G power leads from the insulation diameter turned out to be 17G.

Here's the real deal.

Tyco and AMP combined to form TE connectivity. Here's the proper parts at Newark Electronics

5 Pin mini-ISO relay sockets for 30 - 40 amp relays.
http://www.newark.com/te-connectivit...57?Ntt=17M3157
Note: Almost any cheapo off'n eBay will also work. You can remove and insert connectors with a paper clip.

Connectors for 14G to 18G wire
http://www.newark.com/te-connectivit...09?Ntt=33B9009
Note: These particular ones are bare brass. All other connectors in this post are tin plated.

Connectors for 12G to 16G wire
http://www.newark.com/te-connectivit...48?Ntt=01P1448

Connectors for 10G - 12G wire.
http://www.newark.com/te-connectivit...07?Ntt=07C9007
Note: Not UL listed, not listed in spec sheet for the VF4 andVF7 sockets, but same series and they fit and work well.

4 pin maxi-ISO relay sockets for 70 amp relays
http://www.newark.com/te-connectivit...59?Ntt=17M3159
Note: They're listed wrong, and are crimp sockets, not pcb, which is probably why this site doesn't have much traffic in them. Look for the TE number at other sites, ie allied, digikey, etc.

.375 connector for 4 pin maxi-iso sockets and 6G to 10G wire.
http://www.newark.com/te-connectivit...88?Ntt=07H2888

.375 connector for 4 pin maxi-ISO sockets and 10G - 12G wire.
http://www.newark.com/te-connectivit...0?Ntt=280756-4

TE VCF4 socket data sheet.
http://relays.te.com/datasheets/C_VCF4.pdf

TE VCF4 and VCF7 data sheet
http://relays.te.com/datasheets/C_VCF4_7.pdf

http://relays.te.com/datasheets/C_VCF4.pdf

The coil terminals on the 70 amp sockets are the same as the terminals for the 30 amp sockets. (0.250)

Paladin 1306 crimper will crimp them all except the 6 gauge ones.

Hope it helps
John

u2slow

I like Blue Sea stuff.... used a bunch of it on my inverter install in my E350.

They have some nice circuit breakers: