capt.Ron

I know I'm wearin you guys out but I got another couple of questions.
My EGT gauge has a red and black wire set as well as the white and black for the backlighting.
Where should I go with the Red wire in order to have power on/off with the ignition?
Also how did you guys tie into the dimmer switch for your lighting?
Oh yea how do I push the thermocouple/tube through and under the dash? It's pretty fat and has a large nut on it that I can't remove.
I can't find an opening big enough to get it past the pillar/dash area.

wannadiesel

The power window fuse works well for power. I don't know about the dimmer on the 2nd gens.

Why not disconnect the sender wire from the gauge and feed that end in from under the hood? Seemed like the easier way to go to me.

marks2500

as far as the dimmer wire, it is the brown/tan wire on the back of the light switch
Mark

capt.Ron

The sender wire for the Trans gauge doesn't disconnect. According to Autometer its a plastic coated copper tube and is permanently attached. It's a really messed up design!
I'll know to ask next time I buy gauges and I won't buy those.
BTW I finally got that stinkin thing through.
So how do I go about tieing into the power window fuse and the dimmer wire?
Please don't tell me to is those little connectors that pinch through the insulation.
I don't care for those things.

wgingg

i think i read that the number 5 in the fuse panel runs through the dimmer. havent verified that though

wannadiesel

Sorry, I thought you were still talking about the pyrometer. I can't help you there, I've never crawled around under the dash of a 2nd gen.

I agree with you that scotchlocks suck. I try to solder splices when possible, but when working under the dash it's not usually practical. If I can't solder, I cut the wire I'm going to tap, and use a butt connector to put it back together. The new wire and old wire get twisted together and crimped in the side towards the battery, then the load side of the old wire gets crimped in the other side. This ensures that the butt connector only has to carry the load that was originally on the wire, not both loads.

d0dg301

I tapped into my parking lights, so when my parking lights and dash lights are on so are my gauges. I did use the spap connectors and so far no problems. I used a test light and did some probin before I found which wires I would use.
As far as getting the wire through the fire wall, I ran a piece of 10 gauge solid wire from the dash side first and fed it through the dash and out through the fire wall, then taped the wires from the pyrometer to it and just pulled it back up through the dash into the a pillar. Worked sweet.
Just take your time so as not to have any wires sitting on anything sharp.