Are you on the fence about Helix?
03-22-2007, 09:58 PM
#1
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Are you on the fence about Helix?
I recently installed a F1 Helix 2 cam in my truck and wanted to post up my experience and results.
I did the swap in my garage at home with mostly basic hand tools and a cam install kit I bought a Home Depot. The install is pretty straight forward but a lot of work, it took me 4 full days including some small other jobs ( vacuum pump kit, Larry B starter contacts, new fuel lines etc ) on my list and a 5 hour fishing expedition trying to get a tappet out of the oil pan
I think I could cut it down to 2 days now after learning some small tricks.
After a few hundred miles of tuning and playing I can honestly say this has been one of the sweetest mods I've done, it's a weird feeling driving a CDT that doesnt lay down after 2500rpm. I locked out the OD and locked up the converter and hammered it, power came on strong around 17-1800rpm and at 3800rpm (I ran out of stones lol) it was still pulling like it started. I don't mean revving I mean it was pulling hard. For everyday traffic is seems snappier and the engine also sounds different however I really cant describe it. If you goal is the most HP per $ than a cam change isn't for you but if you want to truly improve drivability I say this is one of the better mods money can buy. For what my opinion is worth I give it a Two Thumbs Up
I did the swap in my garage at home with mostly basic hand tools and a cam install kit I bought a Home Depot. The install is pretty straight forward but a lot of work, it took me 4 full days including some small other jobs ( vacuum pump kit, Larry B starter contacts, new fuel lines etc ) on my list and a 5 hour fishing expedition trying to get a tappet out of the oil pan
I think I could cut it down to 2 days now after learning some small tricks.
After a few hundred miles of tuning and playing I can honestly say this has been one of the sweetest mods I've done, it's a weird feeling driving a CDT that doesnt lay down after 2500rpm. I locked out the OD and locked up the converter and hammered it, power came on strong around 17-1800rpm and at 3800rpm (I ran out of stones lol) it was still pulling like it started. I don't mean revving I mean it was pulling hard. For everyday traffic is seems snappier and the engine also sounds different however I really cant describe it. If you goal is the most HP per $ than a cam change isn't for you but if you want to truly improve drivability I say this is one of the better mods money can buy. For what my opinion is worth I give it a Two Thumbs Up
03-22-2007, 11:40 PM
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You bought a cam install kit from Home Depot??? Thats crazy... lol. Thats awesome man, I have a PDR cam sitting here waiting to go in. BUT I figure to avoid the most overall downtime I should wait until I pull my head to put on a new one and do the cam install then. What were some of the little tricks that you learned that could maybe help us first timers? Did you get the press on gear or bolt on? And not to sound dumb but what is the purpose and procedure for the wooden dowel rods? 
Did you get the press on gear or bolt on? And not to sound dumb but what is the purpose and procedure for the wooden dowel rods?
03-23-2007, 01:52 AM
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Great to hear
My truck has a helix 2 in it but I havent got to try it out yet. Waiting for the head to get here. The cam install was really easy. It can easily be done in 10 hours.
Muddin Dude: Depends on how long it will be before you pull your head. If its something you plan on doing soon, Id just wait and do them both at the same time. The cam isnt really much easier to put in with the head off, but its a lot easier to work on the head with the whole front of the truck off. The purpose for the wooden dowel rods is to hold the tappets up when u pull the cam out. The tappets rest on the cam lobes. If you pull the cam out, the tappets will fall into the oil pan. Youve either got to fish them out or pull the oil pan, which can be a lot more head ache. Just go to walmart, lowes, etc. and buy 12 1/2 inch wooden dowel rods. Taper one end of each rod, then drive the tapered end into the tappet. Make sure the rods will hold up the tappet securely, then pull up on the rod and place a small clamp or rubber band around the wooden rod to hold it up while you pull the cam and install the new one. You will have to use the gear off of your stock cam, so some sort of press is required in order to press the gear off of the old cam, and press it on to the new one. It sounds kind of complicated and can be intimidating, but its really not that bad. Just a matter of taking your time and turning some wrenches.
My truck has a helix 2 in it but I havent got to try it out yet. Waiting for the head to get here. The cam install was really easy. It can easily be done in 10 hours. Muddin Dude: Depends on how long it will be before you pull your head. If its something you plan on doing soon, Id just wait and do them both at the same time. The cam isnt really much easier to put in with the head off, but its a lot easier to work on the head with the whole front of the truck off. The purpose for the wooden dowel rods is to hold the tappets up when u pull the cam out. The tappets rest on the cam lobes. If you pull the cam out, the tappets will fall into the oil pan. Youve either got to fish them out or pull the oil pan, which can be a lot more head ache. Just go to walmart, lowes, etc. and buy 12 1/2 inch wooden dowel rods. Taper one end of each rod, then drive the tapered end into the tappet. Make sure the rods will hold up the tappet securely, then pull up on the rod and place a small clamp or rubber band around the wooden rod to hold it up while you pull the cam and install the new one. You will have to use the gear off of your stock cam, so some sort of press is required in order to press the gear off of the old cam, and press it on to the new one. It sounds kind of complicated and can be intimidating, but its really not that bad. Just a matter of taking your time and turning some wrenches.
03-23-2007, 02:01 AM
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Thats excactly how TiminVa did my cam- wooden dowels and rubber bands. The head never came off =P He used a cam lube on each lobe as it was put in. Break it was starting it up and bringing it up to 1800 rpms right away and holding it there for 15-20 minutes.
03-23-2007, 07:53 AM
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Ok thats what I thought they were for but then I saw pictures and my service manual shows a piece of copper tubing being used to pull the tappets out, so you can (I assume) just drop them back in. What angle do you cut the dowel rods at, and all you do is drive them down into the tappet with a hammer and they will wedge together? On the "cam break-in" is this required on all cams being installed period or just new ones? The cam I have is used so would it need a break in?
03-23-2007, 10:40 AM
#6
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I have been on the fence for 6 months. Really just waiting to get accustomed (a bit bored) with my BD twins. Hasn't happened yet but....?
I really want Mach 6's but would not do them without the H-2 cam...because of our summer heat and my hauling heavy for work.
You've convinced me what I would expect to be there with the H-2...is there!
RJ
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03-23-2007, 09:48 PM
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Muddin_dude06
Since I have a P-pumped truck I went with the bolt on gear
Its a little hard to see but
The wood dowels are 1/2" diameter and 12-14" ( under the cowl need to bee shorter ) long, they push into the top of the tappet where the push-rod would go. I just tapered the ends with a disc sander a little. To change the tappets you will need the dowels and a piece of 2" pvc plastic tube (built in vacuum pipe ) that is 36" long and cut in half to act as a tray, a good magnetic pick-up tool and a small piece of dowel or rubber plug that is attached to a string to pull the tappets back in with. Don said it wasn't totally necessary to change the tappets if they looked OK (which mine did)but I couldn't put the used ones back in after taking them out?
RowJ
With your set up I can pretty much guarantee you would be happy with a H2 cam, my twins with the stock 35 were good but now there great for throttle response. The upstairs charge is unreal, it just wont lay down.
NoSeeUm
Oh yeah, I was daunted since I never had one out before but I have built many gas engines in the past. I just went at it slow and it really isnt to technical.
Since I have a P-pumped truck I went with the bolt on gear
Its a little hard to see but
The wood dowels are 1/2" diameter and 12-14" ( under the cowl need to bee shorter ) long, they push into the top of the tappet where the push-rod would go. I just tapered the ends with a disc sander a little. To change the tappets you will need the dowels and a piece of 2" pvc plastic tube (built in vacuum pipe ) that is 36" long and cut in half to act as a tray, a good magnetic pick-up tool and a small piece of dowel or rubber plug that is attached to a string to pull the tappets back in with. Don said it wasn't totally necessary to change the tappets if they looked OK (which mine did)but I couldn't put the used ones back in after taking them out?
RowJ
With your set up I can pretty much guarantee you would be happy with a H2 cam, my twins with the stock 35 were good but now there great for throttle response. The upstairs charge is unreal, it just wont lay down.
NoSeeUm
Oh yeah, I was daunted since I never had one out before but I have built many gas engines in the past. I just went at it slow and it really isnt to technical.
03-23-2007, 10:25 PM
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03-24-2007, 01:10 PM
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the cam is obviously more work than slapping a bigger turbo on the truck but it is the route i want to go, (when i get to that point!). rather than upping turbo size to force more air through the pathetic lift these trucks have, increase the lift and keep the turbo smaller for better spooling but with top-end performance. write-ups like these are great!!
if i remember correctly, i read about a truck awhile back on this website w/ 450ish HP (???) that had the H2 and an HX-35 and minimal EGT concern....thats what i want!
if i remember correctly, i read about a truck awhile back on this website w/ 450ish HP (???) that had the H2 and an HX-35 and minimal EGT concern....thats what i want!
03-24-2007, 11:03 PM
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My Helix 2 experience.
Before I go any further, I have not contacted the retail outlet where I purchased this cam nor have I contacted the mfg since the original install and then another retailer recommended valve adjustment. There may be a problem I am not aware of, if so I apologize for any negative feedback. Perhaps it is associated with another component, but I ran it with all the same components (other than the cam) for a long time and have not noticed the difference with the cam that I expected. I am 50% happy with this cam. I know I am in the minority on this site but I have to post my experience. I have had 8 Dodges and have spent lots of money on upgrades and have done everything from building a twin turbo kit on a truck with a 2001 built diesel dynamics cam to overhauling trans, both auto and manual. Just saying I have messed with these trucks a lot. I put a helix 2 with bolt on gear in my 2001, it is a 2500 4x4 q-cab w/ 6speed and 4.10 gears, the engine has 57k miles on it. I tow a lot (over 20k often). I have tried to build this truck to do just that, with minimal success. I now have Edge Juice, Industrial Injection 90HP injectors, HTB2 62-14, ATS exhaust manifold (both turbo and manifold are ceramic coated), 4" single exhaust with one magnaflow muffler. Helix 2 cam, mechanical 12valve lift pump and stock vp44.
The cam made a noticeable difference in power and response from 1500-2000rpms but that is not why I bought it. The engine makes power more linear and with less turbo spike and less engine "growl" (less perceived load), it seems as if the engine is under less strain than before and I am sure that is a good thing. Smoke is reduced a little but I can still paint it black. But, I wanted to lower cruising egts at 65mph. I put the cam in because my towing egt's are not manageable. I cannot accelerate to 65mph on flat ground without hitting 1200 unless I really milk it and drive like there is an egg underfoot, with a 32' dual tandem and a 16k tractor behind. The cam allows me to accelerate about 10% faster if I still back out at 1200, but I still cannot cruise at 65 below 1200 deg. Any wind and/or any incline slows me to 5th and 55mph with the cam, just the same as before the cam. I have tons of power and could run 75+, but egts would be stupid. I normally run with the box off when towing. I have a short FL80, and will begin towing with it because I am sick of spending money on this truck. I do not recommend buying this cam to lower egt's, my cam will not do that. Empty (no trailer), before the cam I could hit 1250 only on level 3 and above, with the cam it will hit 1250 in level 3 about 10mph later than before, at the same outside air temp. So the cam did not make enough difference in egts to warrant its purchase for me. By the way it took about 6hrs to install and then I spent another hour later checking and resetting the valves just to make sure I did not have a problem there, as I had #4 and #6 a little loose on the exhaust side. If I missed something here I would like to know about it, other than that, my next cam will only cost half of what I paid for the Helix, and will come from somewhere else. I may be expecting too much from a cam, but if I buy another, my next one will not be a helix.
The cam made a noticeable difference in power and response from 1500-2000rpms but that is not why I bought it. The engine makes power more linear and with less turbo spike and less engine "growl" (less perceived load), it seems as if the engine is under less strain than before and I am sure that is a good thing. Smoke is reduced a little but I can still paint it black. But, I wanted to lower cruising egts at 65mph. I put the cam in because my towing egt's are not manageable. I cannot accelerate to 65mph on flat ground without hitting 1200 unless I really milk it and drive like there is an egg underfoot, with a 32' dual tandem and a 16k tractor behind. The cam allows me to accelerate about 10% faster if I still back out at 1200, but I still cannot cruise at 65 below 1200 deg. Any wind and/or any incline slows me to 5th and 55mph with the cam, just the same as before the cam. I have tons of power and could run 75+, but egts would be stupid. I normally run with the box off when towing. I have a short FL80, and will begin towing with it because I am sick of spending money on this truck. I do not recommend buying this cam to lower egt's, my cam will not do that. Empty (no trailer), before the cam I could hit 1250 only on level 3 and above, with the cam it will hit 1250 in level 3 about 10mph later than before, at the same outside air temp. So the cam did not make enough difference in egts to warrant its purchase for me. By the way it took about 6hrs to install and then I spent another hour later checking and resetting the valves just to make sure I did not have a problem there, as I had #4 and #6 a little loose on the exhaust side. If I missed something here I would like to know about it, other than that, my next cam will only cost half of what I paid for the Helix, and will come from somewhere else. I may be expecting too much from a cam, but if I buy another, my next one will not be a helix.
03-25-2007, 01:22 AM
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The reason why i purchased the helix 2 cam is not mainly for egt reduction. The lower the egts are the better, but im not expecting anything more than maybe 200* at the very most. Mainly what Im looking for is power above 2800 rpm. After about 2700 rpm my truck pretty much just falls on its face. Yes it will rev to 3800-4000 no problem in gear but all its doing is making more heat, and more noise. The meat of the power band in my truck is from the time the turbo spools (around 1700) to 2700. After the 27-2800rpm range im much better off to go ahead and let it shift, bringing the engine back down where it likes to be. The helix 2 is supposed to be good up to 3800-4000 rpm range. If the helix 2 can help my truck to keep on pulling up past the 2800rpm range, i will be more than satisfied.
03-25-2007, 09:13 AM
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westexhunt
Sorry to hear you didn't get the EGT reduction you were looking for but the H2 really doesn't sound like the cam for you. I would have guessed the H1 to be a better piece for your application? I'm with Teddy Bear on this one EGTs had little to do with the reason I picked this cam (all be it a nice spin off for what I did get ) I picked this one for the usable RPM range I was going to get and spool-up. This cam flat out hits the turbos earlier and keeps them going into the twilight zone. There are cams built for your application that don't have the duration specs that the H2 does, but have added lift for more air. I would suggest you talk to Don and see what he recommends as you have a lot of good stuff there and you should be able to get it to work together. Like I said talk to Don or Doug they are both good guys and I'm sure they will help you sort it out.
Sorry to hear you didn't get the EGT reduction you were looking for but the H2 really doesn't sound like the cam for you. I would have guessed the H1 to be a better piece for your application? I'm with Teddy Bear on this one EGTs had little to do with the reason I picked this cam (all be it a nice spin off for what I did get ) I picked this one for the usable RPM range I was going to get and spool-up. This cam flat out hits the turbos earlier and keeps them going into the twilight zone. There are cams built for your application that don't have the duration specs that the H2 does, but have added lift for more air. I would suggest you talk to Don and see what he recommends as you have a lot of good stuff there and you should be able to get it to work together. Like I said talk to Don or Doug they are both good guys and I'm sure they will help you sort it out.
