hey guys be easy on me because i am completely cummins illiterate. i have my dmax for sale due to an attempt at doing away with a truck payment. so with that i'd like to make my 98 12valve into a sledpuller/ partime driver. i've been pulling most of my life but i have no idea what parts to go with to make it a competitive truck. i know i have the 100hp fuel plate cuz it dynoed 270rwhp and i've turned that what i call star key to give me full fuel. I've been looking at 140hp injectors and the bd super b single turbo. where would i be hp range with these items? give me your knowledge guys.

 

140 hp injectors and 191dv's should be enough fuel for 600hp. I would get the head o-ringed, port/polished, and studs. Get at least a 4k gsk, maybe a 5k depending on how deep you want to get into pulling. 60lb valve springs are a must. the super b single might get you to 600hp but im not sure.

 

not to sound 100% stupid but what are 191dv's and what's a 4k gsk? how far do i get the timing advanced? to do this type of work shouldn't cost me more than 5-6 g's should it?

 

A super b single is too small of a turbo for 600rwhp, I think it's only a 57mm inducer. I don't know 12v's but just thought I'd leave that for ya.

 

DV's = Delivery valves. They are in the injector pump underneath each fuel line. They meter the amount of fuel that is delivered to each injector. Sizes range from 160, 181, 191, full cuts, laser cuts, etc. 191's deliver a good amount of fuel, but you'll get even more from full/laser cut DV's

4K GSK = 4,000 RPM Governor Spring Kit. This set of springs will allow the motor to rev up to 4k....3k, 5k, and custom options are available.

Timing.... My guess would be somewhere between 16-18 degrees....this will depend a lot on how high of rpm you're gonna run.


5-6 g's Should be doable if you do all the work yourself, but it won't cover all the other parts you're gonna break

 

wheres a good place to get all this stuff?

 

Where are you from bogger?

 

Everyone will have their own opinion on where to buy, but mine is to buy from the sponsors of this site.

Check the banners up top.

You can also find some good deals in the classified section on here. People are always going bigger (or smaller) and have stuff for sale.

 

Lincoln, Maine

 

Yes the super is only 57mm inducer. 57/65/14 I believe. I dont know much about 12v but Id say a 62/71/14 to go with all that fuel gettin ya to 600+. Or maybe 64/71/14.

You 12v guys have it easy. Tune the pump, add more air, BOOM your at 500hp already I swear!

 

I don't know anyone up there. Jeff Garmon in GA is one of the top 12 valve guys in the country. Scheid Diesel in Indiana are at the top of the heap too.

The biggest things with the 12 valve is to get the pump tuned. We did all the work on my buddies race truck and it's in the 700-800hp range. The pump was a stock 180 pump that we modified to the best of our ability. The truck is setup for drag racing and runs 10.6s so there is some serious power to be made with a 12 valve.

If you search the internet long enough you can find the information you need to build a really nice 12 valve, you just got to filter out all the nonsense to figure out what will work best for you.

 

guys seriously thanks a lot. but in your opinions who makes not neccessarily the best but decent injectors and turbo's? also i don't know what is meant when there's 57/65/14 or any of those numbers. obviously i know the 57 is the mm of the turbo but what are the others?

 

i assume the 24valves are harder and more expensive to get to 500rwhp?

 

my fault, i was looking at a super b something that was a 64/71 which might be enough air for 600hp. the 62/71/14 isnt enough air. Bogger, the first number is the size of the inducer in mm, the second number is the size of the exducer in mm, and the last number is the size of the exhaust housing in cm^2. the bigger the turbine, the more air it will flow but the laggier it will be. you want to be a little bigger on the exhaust wheel so you dont have turbo surging. the bigger the exhaust housings will lower egt's on the top end but will also be laggier on spoolup smaller will be hotter on the top end and faster on spoolup. hope this helps your turbo questions. a 2.6 class turbo will give you the option to drive on the street but still give you a chance to be competitive in pulling.
24valves seem to hit a hard pleateau(sp) around the 500-600 range with stock injection pumps. Our injection pump is all mechanical so its just changing springs, valves, fuel plate profiles, timing, ect.

 

with the 140hp injectors i've seen them say to have atleast a 66mm charger. is that a must or could a person get away with a smaller one?