James Lucas

Jim,<br> Piers is doing a Twin and I wonder if it is exactly what you are planning. PDR HX40 16 and a PDR HTB3 I don't know the wastegate design they plan but they say there is a six week waiting list for it.<br> <br> I guess what I am trying to avoid if at all possible is a few of the limitations and down sides that you guys have been able to briliantly learn about. I would like to be in the next wave. Learn from your R&amp;D so to speak. <br> <br> I am not a mechanic or an engineer so I need to depend on the professionals and learn as I go. With that said, I have to be able to buy my stuff and have it put on. Some things I do well doing myself.<br><br> Why does the HT3b also have to be modified? Everyone is saying that the large turbo is being fed so a quicker spool isn't necessary. You can surmise that I don't get much but I am in the learning curve. Your statement about the larger turbo needing mods is a first and your views on that would be appreciated. Your views are not wasted as I am soaking everything up! But man what a jungle!!!

Jim Fulmer

PDR HT3B, Better stability, longer lasting, faster spool up....same thing he does to alll of the turbo's. Yes it will be a PDR Twin set up, it's the only thing on my motor that is not PDR. The setup is this years top of the line, mine was last years and it works but at high HP/high boost it shows it's limit's with air temps and drive pressure.<br><br>Jim

James Lucas

???<br><br>Ok The other day I'm told the B1B will spool almost as fast as the OEM turbo. Then this morning I am told by someone else it is slow but fast for a &quot;big&quot; turbo. It will not spool any faster than my HX40.<br><br> This evening I am told it would be a great combination for a twin set up but pricey. (High dollar turbo's) (I was told this morning that setup would not spool any faster than the HX40 16 I have right now)<br><br> HX 35 12 external wastgate and HT3B gonna work better to clear up smoke and not have high EGT's?<br><br> I like the price of the OEM and HT3b setup but have received so many warnings. ???<br><br> James<br> <br>

kingofdodge7131

Wish i knew how something about turbos and what not, I know how they work but the twin thing confuses me haha

James Lucas

Life used to be so simple :'( :'( :'(

kingofdodge7131

haha no kidding. I mean Until the link up there i didnt even know what a twin setup looked like, Never sure if the one fed the other or if you y the exaust to run both of them, still a lil lost.

Jim Fulmer

About a year ago I was just starting to understand Twins so don't feel bad.<br><br>A B-1 as the top turbo has been used for a while as the top turbo with good luck by HVAC (Nowell Thomas) but it is high priced, I liked the hx-35 idea cause I had it but now I need to move up to a 40 for the air flow.....same thing Nowell does with the B-1. <br><br>Jim

John_P

JCL123:<br><br>I have run the B-1 (Regular Housing), the B-1 (Kwikspool<br>Housing) and Piers HX-40/16 on my 96' Dodge 12 valve<br>automatic. On this truck, the Piers HX-40 spools alot<br>faster than either of the B-1 models. While towing my<br>enclosed cargo racing trailer the lag with either of the<br>B-1's was terrible. Now, I realize this was a &quot;single&quot;<br>charger and they were on a 12 valve truck, not a 24<br>valve. But,......my son also tried the B-1 on his 2001<br>24 valve and felt that he lost alot of bottom end too.<br>The B-1 is a tough turbo and they may work good in<br>a &quot;twin&quot; system, (i.e. Nowell) but as was already<br>pointed out they are expensive.<br><br>--------<br>John_P

Roger rodbolt

I respect John P., his work and know that he has a great truck, however I have a slightly different view of the B1 particularly on the 24V. A standard B1 is faster (down low)then a standard HX40 and close to the Piers '40 with a 16 housing. The standard B1 tows slightly better then a HX40-16 and can run 50lbs of reasonably cool boost and live a long life. There are much faster B1's then the standard B1 if you need them. The HX40 should only run 40lbs to live and has similar drive pressures and temps at albeit 10lbs less boost then a standard B1. <br><br>A friend on mine purchased John P's used B1 and replaced a Piers HX40 on his HO truck. He said the B1 spooled much stronger in the midrange, about the same down low and gained peak horsepower. He's very happy with the B1 and won 2nd place at Muncie sled pull this year. He was concerned that he was losing HP because it had the small KS housing. I know that it was supposed to be a Kwikspool but it does not, it has a standard housing. This would make a difference on a 12valve engine. <br><br>My take is that on a 12V engine you need the Kwikspool housing and maybe the small wheels if you have not ported the engine. A 12V doesn't flow as much air.<br> The people that have B1 lag on a 24V engine usually have small boost leaks which is a killer on the low end or they have an auto tranny with a tight convertor (another killer for turbos). The HX40 is a good turbo, within it's limits. The Piers HX40 is a great turbo, I like it and recommend it if 40lbs boost is enough for your setup and you are not hard on turbos. There are several different B1 configurations and they are definately a step up in durability, performance and yes they (initially) cost a bit more. Several folks are pushing 60+lbs boost with the B1 and it stays together. If you use drugs, you will overspeed most single turbos and the bearing life is reduced, even with a tough B1. I familar with a number of trucks (here) that are currently running various B1's with my assistance so I have a little experience. I have no experience with twins, HTH's Larry

StakeMan

Lots of great info in this thread.<br><br><br>As you can see, every truck and turbo combination is different.

James Lucas

Well, the homework is coming around full circle...<br><br> I found this http://www.turbodieselregister.com/f...p;pagenumber=1 <br><br>

TxDieselKid

HERE IS A BETTER READ

southernsmoker

So is everyone supporting the weight of the HT3B with just the hot pipe being clamped to the small charger? Does the clamp and standard exhaust pipe elbow support that much weight?<br>If a '97 has no oil return bung, how are you guys tapping into the pan with out getting shavings in the pan and how high up are you welding it on the pan (oil level)? Is the HT3B still high enough to tap a Y on the factory drain and still have sufficient drainage? I really need to know the answers to these questions as I am tearing down my truck in the morning. Thanks in advance. SS

James Lucas

Well I read both of those threads and the weight question was asked and not answered...<br><br>And the where to tap the oil question I didn't see addressed for your application.<br><br>Shavings in the oil pan??? That would not be so good!<br><br>I did see something about someone saying a freezeplug could be accessed????? Did I read that right?<br><br>Good luck! I plan on paying someone for mine I just want to make the right descision on the set up and that is why I started this post.

James Lucas

[quote author=TxDieselKid link=board=7;threadid=16452;start=15#155591 date=1057107943]<br>HERE IS A BETTER READ <br>[/quote]<br><br>Thanks Andrew That Kept Me Busy For AWHILE