I just got done installing 5 new banjo bolts I got from Rod at Wildcat Diesel. The install was very easy, took approx 1 hour to do all five. I cleaned the threads on the new bolts with a wire brush to get the crud off, then hit em with some carb cleaner. I put the one with the shraeder fitting on the vp-44 and the other tapped one went under my fuel filter to hook my new Isspro mechanical fuel pressure gauge to. All of them threaded in very easily (no thread chasing required ;D). I took a test drive before the install with my homemade gauge hooked pre filter and zip tied to my windshield wiper. At idle I had 11 psi, cruising at 75 was 10 psi and wot from 70 to 100+ I had 1.5- 2 psi.
Now the results, taken with my new mechanical FP gauge mounted in A-pillar.........
At idle , I had 12 psi, cruising at 75 I still had 10 psi, BUT at 70 to over 100 I couldnt get it to go below 5 psi.
So, it looks as though they work ;D.
Rods mechanical fuel pressure gauge kit rocks also. The whole install took me about 2 hours (bolts and gauge). So, if any of you are thinking about doing a gauge and new banjo's, I would highly recommend Rods stuff. Everything I needed was sent (except for the teflon pipe paste- Rod... : ;D) and is VERY easy to install ;D ;D.

Scott

 

I have rod's kit as well very nice! As for your pressure at idle you are a little low Im around 15 PSI all stock lift pump but with my set up Im only at like 5 PSI or less at WOT.

 

Yeah- It's probably going out on me :'(. I did my tests with my TST box on 4.

 

I am new to this banjo bolt stuff. I am getting ready to do a Dipricol fuel pressure, pyro & boost guage install. Will these banjo bolts help me out? ???

 

I'm also pretty new to the banjo bolts, how are they installed and are there any special tools? Is it necessary to bleed the lines after putting them in? When i get my FP gauge in i'm sure i'll be itching to get some to help the pressure. Thanks in advance

 

No special tools. An 11/16" wrench and a 10mm socket for the little bolt that holds the fuel line on the input side of the lift pump. On mine, the post filter banjo is below the fuel filter and when you change it, you drain all the fuel out. So, when I was done, I just bumped the starter about three times then kept cranking till it fired up. Took a few seconds to smooth out. They definately help ;D

 

When we did my banjos and back when I changed my fuel filter, I bumped the lift 5 times. Truck started right up, no grumbling, no b.s. Maybe I'm just lucky or I just cursed myself and it'll never start right again. : :<br><br>~Dave

 

What do they do? Should I do the guage istall, fuel filter change &amp; banjo bolts all at once or does it matter?

 

The Banjo bolts are the connector bolts that pass through the ends of the fuel hoses at the Lift Pump, Fuel Filter Canister and the Injection Pump.
The aftermarket ones have larger than stock openings for the fuel to pass through and seem to give a 1 to 1 1/2 psi boost to fuel pressures due to reduced restriction.
If you need to open the system anyway to install gauges, or change the filter, I'd go ahead and replace them at the same time.
On my '99 the Banjo bolt for the Injection Pump was shorter than the others.

 

Thanks all. Looks like I will order the Banjo bolts.

 

I would maybe say to change a bolt then start the truck then change another and do the same less chance of loosing you prime. Also make sure they are tight cause I had one a tough loose and was loosing prime I had to crank my truck forever to get it to start finally figured out that one wasn't tight enough ever since no probs!

 

The main point to remember is do not reuse the sealing washers.
They're fairly inexpensive and you'll need 10 if you change all of the bolts.
THESE BOLTS CAN BE TWISTED IN HALF. This will make you :'( :'( :'( :'(
Save the 400 lb gorrilla for torquing the lug nuts.
I think the spec is around 18 ft lbs.

 

[quote author=Shovelhead link=board=7;threadid=9518;start=0#91418 date=1042462067]<br>The main point to remember is do not reuse the sealing washers.<br>They're fairly inexpensive and you'll need 10 if you change all of the bolts.<br>THESE BOLTS CAN BE TWISTED IN HALF. This will make you :'( :'( :'( :'(<br>Save the 400 lb gorrilla for torquing the lug nuts.<br>I think the spec is around 18 ft lbs.<br>[/quote]<br><br>I'm not 400 lbs dude. <br><br>

 

[quote author=CTD/359 link=board=7;threadid=9518;start=0#91456 date=1042470790]<br>[quote author=Shovelhead link=board=7;threadid=9518;start=0#91418 date=1042462067]<br>The main point to remember is do not reuse the sealing washers.<br>They're fairly inexpensive and you'll need 10 if you change all of the bolts.<br>THESE BOLTS CAN BE TWISTED IN HALF. This will make you :'( :'( :'( :'(<br>Save the 400 lb gorrilla for torquing the lug nuts.<br>I think the spec is around 18 ft lbs.<br>[/quote]<br><br>I'm not 400 lbs dude. <br><br><br>[/quote]<br><br>

 

<br>I'm not 400 lbs dude. <br>[/quote]<br><br>No, but you could lift the 400 pounder with one hand, while torquing the bolts with the other.