Why are people using boost elbows instead of manual boost controllers??
#16
Yeah, i also think a manual boost controller would be better than a boost elbow. Just a lot more adjustability to be had. I wouldnt mind to try one out, but im still debating on putting my 12cm housing on or keeping the n/w 16 on. If i knew the 12 wouldnt hurt my EGT's i would definatley put it back on, and play with the wastegate.
Eric
Eric
#17
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 6,564
Likes: 6
From: Cummins Technical Center, IN
I'm considered the MBC because I'll soon have enough fuel to where I can possibly grenade my stock charger with the wg blocked. And let's face it, you'll probably have higher EGT with the stock charger at 42psi than at 35 or so.
Think of all the shady ways we try to regulate boost: .22 shells, bleed orifices, turnbuckles, even air compressor regulators (which won't work very well at all-- don't ask me why I know).
We spend more on BAD ways to do this that what it would cost to do it right, don't we?
Heck, a NICE manual boost controller is $56 from these guys:
http://www.boostcontroller.com/index.php?category=13
They have others that work as well or better.
The other thing about MBCs that appeals to me is their usefulness later if you want to run twins.
Think how much better you could dial in an external WG if you had an MBC in there! No more being limited by whatever springs are available for your external WG of choice. It doesn't matter with an MBC.
Moreover, there's no limit to the boost control you can get from an MBC. Say you want to setup twins with the top charger running at 45psi! (i know, but follow me here).
You have an external gate with a 22psi spring. Your particular MBC can only add 18psi of resistance. Thus, you can only get 40psi out of the top charger. The solution?
ADD ANOTHER MBC! You could plumb 3 or 4 of these jokers in series and theoretically take your top charger to 70psi if you wanted-- all with PERFECT boost control and precision.
1 MBC should be plenty for most people, but I just wanted to illustrate how useful these little fellas could be.
jh
Think of all the shady ways we try to regulate boost: .22 shells, bleed orifices, turnbuckles, even air compressor regulators (which won't work very well at all-- don't ask me why I know).
We spend more on BAD ways to do this that what it would cost to do it right, don't we?
Heck, a NICE manual boost controller is $56 from these guys:
http://www.boostcontroller.com/index.php?category=13
They have others that work as well or better.
The other thing about MBCs that appeals to me is their usefulness later if you want to run twins.
Think how much better you could dial in an external WG if you had an MBC in there! No more being limited by whatever springs are available for your external WG of choice. It doesn't matter with an MBC.
Moreover, there's no limit to the boost control you can get from an MBC. Say you want to setup twins with the top charger running at 45psi! (i know, but follow me here).
You have an external gate with a 22psi spring. Your particular MBC can only add 18psi of resistance. Thus, you can only get 40psi out of the top charger. The solution?
ADD ANOTHER MBC! You could plumb 3 or 4 of these jokers in series and theoretically take your top charger to 70psi if you wanted-- all with PERFECT boost control and precision.
1 MBC should be plenty for most people, but I just wanted to illustrate how useful these little fellas could be.
jh
#18
and, with the turbomaster style you're actually regulating the exhaust pressure, not the boost. not necessarily a bad thing, but you can get different max boost from the same drive pressure (i think).
#20
How does a MBC work? I was under the assumption that it was a ball and spring and you adjust the spring tension to adjust when it opens to allow pressure to the wastegate. Is that right?
#22
I was searching on Ebay, and they can be had anywhere from $100 to $10 on there. Even the $10 ones look decent. I would say you could get a decent one for cheap on there. Just a heads up. I may look into building my own if i go back to the 12cm housing though. If not, i may buy one of the decent looking ones off of ebay.
Eric
Eric
#24
I think even if they werent strong enough, you could modify it by putting in a stiffer spring. Surley it would be better than a boost elbow. I saw one ebay auction i think where it was talking about mounting the boost controller in the cab so you could adjust it on the fly. I think that would be AWESOME! I wouldnt mind to tinker with that idea some if i got a boost controller, and was bored one day. Would be sweet to be able to adjust it from the cab. Just run the lines in the cab from the AFC, then to the wastegate. Just mount it wherever you want. Maybe under the dash, where only the **** to adjust it can be seen, and reached by just reaching down and turning it. I dont know. Just thinking out loud
Eric
Eric
#27
I also thought about this.
Eric
Originally Posted by BigBlue
What about just drilling and tapping the stock elbow and installing a bolt that restricts the air? Crude, yes. Effective, possibly. Might try it out this weekend.
#28
I got a comp/ez and rv 275s ,please elaborate on how opening the gate any will benifit me , I have the edge elbow in now I just dont,t understand how lowering my peak boost which is around 32 now will help me any. Never tapped the wire yet , don't got the nads .
#29
Caper,
At the moment, with your current mods, you will NOT benefit from an adjustable wastegate if peak boost is only 32 psi.....when your fueling mods are able to push your HX35 over 35 psi, use an adjustable wastegate.
At the moment, with your current mods, you will NOT benefit from an adjustable wastegate if peak boost is only 32 psi.....when your fueling mods are able to push your HX35 over 35 psi, use an adjustable wastegate.
#30
I'm running a $35 MBC off EBay. It works great, it always goes right up to where I set it and stops there. No spiking. I ran a Turbo Master for a while, and it worked well at lower fueling levels. Once I got a lot of fuel, I couldn't get it to control boost and had to go back to the stock actuator. I believe this is because the Turbo Master only opens a the 'gate a crack. As soon as it opens, pressure on the flapper is insufficient to open it further.