who makes the better lift kit?
07-09-2004, 04:17 PM
#32
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You will still need a steering stabilizer if you don't have one already. I don't see a drop pitman arm either, so you'll need one of those. Shocks not included. You'll need longer ones.
I'm not a big fan of using spacers on anything. Spacers place additional leverage on the mounting point that the mounting point was not designed to take. To me, coil spacers are akin to leaf spring blocks on the front. BIG no-no. You will probably never have a problem, but to me, well....it's just personal preference. Dodge had a recall on the 95's? for cracked spring towers. I don't like my rear block either, but after spending $6500 on motor and trans BOMBs in the last 6 months, my new custom leaf pack will have to wait.
If you already have 2" coils on it, go with the 3". The 5" kit will give you 7" of lift. You'll run into all sorts of problems with steering geometry and driveline angles. If you have a 2" spacer in there now, you're simply swapping it for a 5" spacer. You'll still need the drop pitman arm. You'll still need to install the rear block, but I'd install the front first and see if you need the rear block. The control arms look kinda small as well.....but I guess they're no worse than the stockers.
Guess it boils down to this....do you want to do it cheap or do it right? Or twice?
I'm not a big fan of using spacers on anything. Spacers place additional leverage on the mounting point that the mounting point was not designed to take. To me, coil spacers are akin to leaf spring blocks on the front. BIG no-no. You will probably never have a problem, but to me, well....it's just personal preference. Dodge had a recall on the 95's? for cracked spring towers. I don't like my rear block either, but after spending $6500 on motor and trans BOMBs in the last 6 months, my new custom leaf pack will have to wait.
If you already have 2" coils on it, go with the 3". The 5" kit will give you 7" of lift. You'll run into all sorts of problems with steering geometry and driveline angles. If you have a 2" spacer in there now, you're simply swapping it for a 5" spacer. You'll still need the drop pitman arm. You'll still need to install the rear block, but I'd install the front first and see if you need the rear block. The control arms look kinda small as well.....but I guess they're no worse than the stockers.
Guess it boils down to this....do you want to do it cheap or do it right? Or twice?
07-09-2004, 04:36 PM
#33
Order a lift from TuffCountry at www.suspensionconnection.com. They have great deals there and the prices are awsome. I have had my TuffCountry 3" EZ-Ride lift for about a year now and have had no problem at all. There customer service is also excellent and they will answer any questions you have with no problem garanteed! Good Luck!
07-09-2004, 04:38 PM
#34
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Originally posted by HOHN
The only problem with the "hot" setup you describe is that you can't just buy Bilstein 7100/9100 shocks. You have have to have them specially valved and setup for your application. They are NOT for the average guy, and they are NOT cheap. Bilstein basically builds these to order for Baja race teams who spec their own valving. By the time you get your valving set up, you've already spent more than the T-rex/Bilstein kit.
JLH
The only problem with the "hot" setup you describe is that you can't just buy Bilstein 7100/9100 shocks. You have have to have them specially valved and setup for your application. They are NOT for the average guy, and they are NOT cheap. Bilstein basically builds these to order for Baja race teams who spec their own valving. By the time you get your valving set up, you've already spent more than the T-rex/Bilstein kit.
JLH
Bilstien 7100
12" Shock with Remote Reservoir
Part No. AK7112R $179.95
Collasped: 19.61 Extended: 31.34
Valving:
150/50
170/60
180/75
255/70
275/78
360/80
At the right side of the page are several "BUY NOW" buttons.
No web pricing for the race series 9100 because they are custom valved, but the 9100 Rock Crawler shocks are ~$300 each. Quite a bit less than the $3K plus for the T-Rex system.
Do your homework Justin....
07-11-2004, 09:26 PM
#35
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Originally posted by Wilson
So what about the Kelderman system. Cant you use it to lift your truck and wouldnt air bags ride better? We are talking about a bunch of brands here so I thought I would throw Kelderman into the mix and try and get some feedback to see how it compares.
So what about the Kelderman system. Cant you use it to lift your truck and wouldnt air bags ride better? We are talking about a bunch of brands here so I thought I would throw Kelderman into the mix and try and get some feedback to see how it compares.
I just don't trust throwing out the springs and relying on the air bags.
I go well off the beaten path and could see myself puncturing a bag and being in a world of hurt.
If it worked in conjunction with springs, so if you did blow a bag, you'd still be able to drive it,
then I'd look into a system like that.
I would love to have the adjustability.
Lower it to fit in the garage, or the parking garage at work, but still have 6 inches of lift for offroading.
phox
07-12-2004, 10:19 AM
#36
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Jerry, sounds like you need some hydraulics. Come on, I wanna see you hop the front end with that Cummins in it. I bet it'd bounce pretty good.....
Can't you see yourself cruising the streets of downtown Sandy with the left side dumped, doin' the gangsta lean?
Can't you see yourself cruising the streets of downtown Sandy with the left side dumped, doin' the gangsta lean?
07-12-2004, 06:46 PM
#37
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Jamie (Hellotbone) has his Dually lowered and nitro bagged.
Can do the lean, put the frame on the ground, and almost hop (maybe the back end).
Not my cup of tea, trucks need to be tall.
phox
Can do the lean, put the frame on the ground, and almost hop (maybe the back end).
Not my cup of tea, trucks need to be tall.
phox
07-13-2004, 12:41 AM
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Originally posted by phox_mulder
Jamie (Hellotbone) has his Dually lowered and nitro bagged.
Can do the lean, put the frame on the ground, and almost hop (maybe the back end).
Not my cup of tea, trucks need to be tall.
phox
Jamie (Hellotbone) has his Dually lowered and nitro bagged.
Can do the lean, put the frame on the ground, and almost hop (maybe the back end).
Not my cup of tea, trucks need to be tall.
phox
07-13-2004, 01:33 AM
#39
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homework done
Originally posted by Cowhand
Does this shed any light on the subject?
Bilstien 7100
12" Shock with Remote Reservoir
Part No. AK7112R $179.95
Collasped: 19.61 Extended: 31.34
Valving:
150/50
170/60
180/75
255/70
275/78
360/80
At the right side of the page are several "BUY NOW" buttons.
No web pricing for the race series 9100 because they are custom valved, but the 9100 Rock Crawler shocks are ~$300 each. Quite a bit less than the $3K plus for the T-Rex system.
Do your homework Justin....
Does this shed any light on the subject?
Bilstien 7100
12" Shock with Remote Reservoir
Part No. AK7112R $179.95
Collasped: 19.61 Extended: 31.34
Valving:
150/50
170/60
180/75
255/70
275/78
360/80
At the right side of the page are several "BUY NOW" buttons.
No web pricing for the race series 9100 because they are custom valved, but the 9100 Rock Crawler shocks are ~$300 each. Quite a bit less than the $3K plus for the T-Rex system.
Do your homework Justin....
I am quoting the experience of San Felipe Bob, Baja racer extraordinaire (tdr member). He has a custom Baja rig he built that has Bilsteins on it. True, the cost of the shocks is not that high. But Bob said that compared to the costs to get his shocks dialed in and finally working, only to have LESS performance than the T-rex Fox shocks, he wishes he would have just bought the T-rex system.
Those who know Bob know that this is high praise indeed. He's a Baja legend.
If it was just that easy to slap on some Bilsteins and go off happy, don't you think someone would have done it by now? Well, T-rex offers a Bilstein kit for $2000....
If you still think you can beat the $2K price tag of the T-rex on your own with the 7100 or 9100 shocks, AND HAVE IT PERFORM AS WELL, then do it. I'd buy from you in an instant.
See, the T-rex system is basically the shocks. THe mounts are there just to enable the use of the fancy shocks.
So if you can get the Bilsteins to work on your rig and perform as well as the T-rex bilstein setup for less money, then you will have forever earned my respect.
Justin
07-13-2004, 10:44 AM
#40
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Hmmm.....your telling me that if I spend $800 on Bilstiens, it's gonna cost me over $1200 to get them dialed in? and this is based on something you read on TDR regarding 1 guy's experience?
That's kinda like saying "I read a book by Wolfgang Puck. Now I'm a Chef".
I'm not taking anything away from the T-Rex system, on the contrary, it's good stuff. But fab shops are a dime a dozen out here. T-Rex specializes in the Dodge, but they aren't the only game in town. Unless you're driving Baja at high speed, as SFB and KK are doing, valving is not that critical. I can get reasonably close by matching the valving with the spring rate and a few other parameters. If I wanted to do 65 MPH over 2' washboard, I sure as heck wouldn't be doing it in my 3/4 ton extended cab Dodge. I'm looking for an older Explorer or 4Runner to build for that. Something I can take out on a trailer and bring home in a box.
The Dodge is for pulling it out there. The suspension and tires are so I can get there comfortably and not have to park near the road.
We're talking weekend trail rigs here, not race trucks.
That's kinda like saying "I read a book by Wolfgang Puck. Now I'm a Chef".
I'm not taking anything away from the T-Rex system, on the contrary, it's good stuff. But fab shops are a dime a dozen out here. T-Rex specializes in the Dodge, but they aren't the only game in town. Unless you're driving Baja at high speed, as SFB and KK are doing, valving is not that critical. I can get reasonably close by matching the valving with the spring rate and a few other parameters. If I wanted to do 65 MPH over 2' washboard, I sure as heck wouldn't be doing it in my 3/4 ton extended cab Dodge. I'm looking for an older Explorer or 4Runner to build for that. Something I can take out on a trailer and bring home in a box.
The Dodge is for pulling it out there. The suspension and tires are so I can get there comfortably and not have to park near the road.
We're talking weekend trail rigs here, not race trucks.
07-14-2004, 10:06 AM
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Fair enough. Why don't you plunge with the Bilsteins and tell us how it works? Like I said, if you can provide more bang for the buck (even if it is less bang), then go for it! I'd pay you for your R&D and the fact that you saved me money on a T-rex.
I've never read a book by Wolfgang Puck. The entire restaurant world is glad I haven't
(j/k)
I've never read a book by Wolfgang Puck. The entire restaurant world is glad I haven't
(j/k)
07-22-2004, 06:09 PM
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wow 
This suspension subject is almost as emotional as the oil brand issue which we will NOT bring up
I was just wondering if 35 " Toyos will fit on my truck without any suspension mods. And if they wont, what will I have to do to make them fit?
This suspension subject is almost as emotional as the oil brand issue which we will NOT bring up
I was just wondering if 35 " Toyos will fit on my truck without any suspension mods. And if they wont, what will I have to do to make them fit?
07-22-2004, 06:57 PM
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Originally posted by diesel_kid
wow
This suspension subject is almost as emotional as the oil brand issue which we will NOT bring up
I was just wondering if 35 " Toyos will fit on my truck without any suspension mods. And if they wont, what will I have to do to make them fit?
wow
This suspension subject is almost as emotional as the oil brand issue which we will NOT bring up
I was just wondering if 35 " Toyos will fit on my truck without any suspension mods. And if they wont, what will I have to do to make them fit?