Hi i have used the search method to no avail. anyways i see people mention a p pump conversion, and i am not quite sure how and what parts to use but if I am correct it seems to eliminate the VP44 which is a good enough reason to do one in itself.

My thing is if my Injection pump goes I hate throwing a part on that will probably take a dump sooner than later and would rather convert to something else if this the way to go.

 

Basically you need new injection lines for the conversion along with pump gear, timing case and cover, some linkage and of course a P7100. You'll also need an adapter for your cam sensor to mount up.

 

Didn't look too hard did you?
Here's all you need to know about doing it.
http://www.competitiondiesel.com/for...play.php?f=192
Read the Sticky at the top first.

 

Bingo.

Basically it lets you fuel futher/longer than VP and turn some real RPMs. Mine will be P-Pumped one day. I just dont have $2000-3000 to do it right now....

 

There isn't too many P-Pumped trucks on this site I don't believe.

Some say the drivabilty decreases, but it just depends on who does your pump work and how much HP your pushing. If you want over 650hp and you race or sled pull your truck or want 4k-5k rpms, then P pump is the way to go.

 

The people that say the driveability decrease are the ones who haven't done it and are going by a few guys experience from years ago. It drives better than my VP truck did, very similar to my 12v.

 

nice I think I am gonna look for a wrecked 12v hopefully with some mods.
as I said above I dont like having a weak link like the vp44. I often wondered if the fuel system out of the gen 3 trucks would work also. just something to make it even more reliable. thanks to all who answered even the sarcastic ones

 

The fuel system out of a 3rd gen won't work. It's a common rail system and the injectors unlike ours are fired via computer.
Find a 12v donor truck of someone parting out one. You'll need the pump, brackets, TV cable, pump gear, front cover, custome fuel lines, etc..................
Good luck! We've done one down here to TJ's sled puller.

 

ummm, if you're going to find a wrecked 12valve, why not just swap the engine into the newer truck....

 

i think it would be easier to just swap the fuel system, plus I kinda like the 24 valve. and it already in there.

here is the deal. I used to build german race cars from the 80 and 90's all were fun in there own ways, but over time most ended upp costing me 10's of thousands of dollars.

I feel this cummins motor is the best designed and built motor i have ever had, (i havehad 2 porsches a BMW 2 audis and 20+ older vws) and although i need my truck to work, clowning and going fast is still in my blood. so I figure why not build the truck as all of of as most likely feel.

i already have a decently modded truck as it sits, and have a twin setup sitting on a bench in my garage, as well as a 100 shot of n2o partially installed just waiting for a hobbs switch.

i plan on going to the extreme of making my truck undriveable and then backing it off a little bit. o that the most power is available when I feel like seriously screwing off .

if that makes sense. so I may just sell of the Adrenaline and start my search for a 12v complete setup.

 

Plus you can turn around and sell all the remaining pieces to help cover the costs of your conversion.

 

You'll need to stud and oring the head with the N2o & twins. Or have you already done that?
I don't see a fuel system in your sig, gonna need that too. I recommend the Airdog 150.

 

the 24v head flows better than the 12v and taking a whole engine out is more work imo.

 

Safe to say you haven't pulled the cam on one of these engines yet? You could have the engine out by the time you get the cam out.

From a financial stand point, it makes much more sense to swap in a 12v and sell a running 24v complete. Being in an 01, it will be a bit easier to make the electronics play nice than in a 98-00 truck. Buy a 12v, rob the parts, and now you are selling a long block engine and misc. 24v parts that don't fail often (VP and APPS being the exception).

That being said, the p-pump conversion is still relatively uncommon, and thats the major reason I did it.

 

My P-Pump'd 01 has amazing drivability, better than my VP ever had after modifications...

By selling off extra parts, VP performance goodies My conversion cost less than $0.00.... Although I did purchase a Miller timing kit so I could change my own timing and that put me into the black about $250... Not too shabby..

Conversion can be done in a weekend easy, it took me two to clean stuff up, paint, go slow, first time whatever... Dont regret my conversion one bit...

Oh and yes I still drive the truck every day and tow often, truck is around 600HP and smoke is very controllable (Valet switch makes things easy)