latemodelracer2

I would like to adjust mine on my truck and need to know where they are on this particular truck? I need more low end so what will get me more low end?

TxDiesel007

Well

the starwheel is under that little hex shaped screw on top of your injector pump, that hex set screw is on top of the AFC housing, The AFC houses a torque plate. But before you do any tweaking of that, the first and foremost investment is a good set of gauges. These are a must anytime that you are adding more fuel to your mix. Read down below, you will learn how to adjust your starwheel, and how to remove or shift a fuel plate.. k?

Fuel plates, More commonly reffered to as fuel plates, they come in different numbers to explain how "aggressive" (for lack of a better term at the moment) that they are 10, 8, 6, 5, 0, and 100, zero being a flatt plate that bombards the pump with fuel, and a 100 being a ten plate curve with no top end defueling, much like the zero.. The one you see there is my banks plate, screwy yes, i know, i dont get it myself. that plate goes in the P7100 injector pump, It goes under what is called the AFC housing, which has a little starwheel on it, the starwheel can be accessed with the removal of the hex dealy using the the right hex head size plug, and u loosen and remove the plug and you will see the starwheel with a screw. You loosen it it for more smoke, and better lower end, and tighten it for the inverse. Use a good screwdriver.... furthermore... You will see four screws there where the starwheel is, two that are flatt, one that is possibly a breakoff screw that can be a real PITA to remove, take a hammer and good screwdriver and bang the tar outta it, it will come off, if that fails, left hand drill bit... Looking down the driver side, the top left hand is the breakaway, and the top right is a regular screw as well, the bottom two are 8mm bolts and you need to get around to one that is in the back of the AFC housing that holds that fuel shutdown solenoid in place...

Which one is right for you.. id say the ten if you are not gonna be that aggressive with it, but the 100 is downright WICKED!! that be the one to go with, the zero is just too much at the low end for me but for dynos and racin, its awesome!.. The zero, PM Northslope AWESOME AWESOME WORK, and ull be helpin out a fellow DTR member, and the zero plate you can grind yourself, well you can do either or, but PM northslope do a search for plate grinding, started by gunracer1.. good instructions..

For better power distribution, try a gsk. A governers spring kit, Reffered to as a GSK is a wonderful investment that widens your normally narrow powerband from the 12 valve engine and allows you to fuel hard to at least 3200 RPMS or so, before it starts to defuel, this is all dependant on your governer arm adjustment and your plate positioning. A Torque, or fuel plate should come next. NO one really follows the plate guide anymore and the most popular plates nowadays are 100 (PM northslope for wicked work! ) and a zero plate. Piers Diesel Research and Hot Rod Diesels have them for the same price.

Best of luck and hope that this helps..

Tx

TxDiesel007

loosening the starwheel will get u a minimal increase, try pushing that stock fuel plate forward as well for an extra 30 or so horses, Other things are getting a BHAF, or more air in the system.

Tx

latemodelracer2

how do i move the fuel plate?

Dave88LX

Hey...what do you mean by a break-away screw? I haven't looked under there yet...

TxDiesel007

Remove the AFC housing, as it is told in the post above, Once you remove the AFC housing you will see the fuel plate held down with two screws, loosen them and adjust the fuel plate to your desired position. full forward, or 90 percent forward should yield you a good 30 or so rwhp....

i cant stress this enough..

GET GAUGES before you do this!!

Thanks

Tx

TxDiesel007

Ok again its in that post i typed out above, If you look down from the drivers side down upon the injector pump you will see that it has a total of four screws/ bolts holdint it down HEre lets suppose since i dunno how to add pics..

Screw (breakaway) Screw (flat head)







8 mm bolt 8 mm bolt


Ok that is the simplest diagram i can think of, the 8 mm bolts hold down the fuel shutdown solenoid and the break away or break off screw is at the top left hand corner of the AFC housing. It looks like a regular screw except it has a dot in the middle. To remove it, get a good strong screwdriver, make sure you are kinda as well, and then using a good screwdriver and a hammer, bang the screwdriver on in, and then work it in a removal (counterclockwise) motion until that sucker comes off.. I will post a pic later on of my Fuel shutdown solenoid removed..

Ok.. also beware, IT IS NOT just those four bolts that you gotta worry about, behind the injector pump there is another 8 mm bolt you must loosen to actually swing the solenoid outta the way to facilitate the removal of the AFC housing. that bolt was recently lost in my truck, but it seems to work well enough without it..

Thanks and best of luck Dave

Tx

latemodelracer2

truck had gauges in it when i bought it so i should be good. Ill try what u say.

latemodelracer2

ok i went out and looked at the truck. The housing itself it what i need to simply loosen the bolts and slide forward correct?

TxDiesel007

Nope

you remove the housing.. The fuel plate is under the AFC housing itself....

and is held down by those two screws, the plate is what you move.

Hope this can help you better understand what i mean...

http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/more_power/i_pump12.jpg that is what it should look like without the top of the AFC housing NO FUEL PLATE

http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/more_power/tst_pump20.jpg this is what it looks like with a plate installed, there you also see the two bolts u need to loosen to put in the fuel plate..

http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/more_power/afc_top16.jpg this is what the AFC housing looks like

Thanks!

Tx

P.O.R.

here is a link on how to change the plate,you could follow through it and just use the steps to suit what you are doing,
http://www.tstproducts.com/pdffiles/INSRUCT98.pdf

also make sure you adjust the gov. arm any time you move the plate,here is a link on how to do it,there is also a cut away picture of the pump showing the plate and gov. arm, http://www.piersdiesel.com/TechLeverAdj.htm

DRM

Here's how I adjusted the star wheel on my 98 12v CTD -

http://www.4x4spot.com/12v_ctd_afc_adjustment.htm

95ram

Thanks for all the pics guys. It helped me to understand a lot more.