What should i expect from twin turbo kit when it is installed
08-15-2005, 07:13 PM
#31
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Originally posted by Jeff K
Since you are in NC, why don't you get a hold of Olee Poole. He can do the head for you and help you set up your twins. He also has F1 Mach injectors.
Here's the info...
powerbypoole.com
He is in Salisbury, NC
*I am not affliliated with Powerbypoole in any way.
Since you are in NC, why don't you get a hold of Olee Poole. He can do the head for you and help you set up your twins. He also has F1 Mach injectors.
Here's the info...
powerbypoole.com
He is in Salisbury, NC
*I am not affliliated with Powerbypoole in any way.
08-15-2005, 07:16 PM
#32
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i do thank everyone for posting......i have learned stuff i didnt know from this post and the more input yall give me the more questions i have seem to et answered..........
08-15-2005, 07:29 PM
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Originally posted by Jetpilot
AK Ram,
Your setup should be above 350 HP...... I would expect with the twins, TST, and injectors to be around 400-450 minimum. Have you dynoed your setup? Not trying to flame just curious because the guys I know who have similiar setups are all well above 400 with a single turbo.
Doug
AK Ram,
Your setup should be above 350 HP...... I would expect with the twins, TST, and injectors to be around 400-450 minimum. Have you dynoed your setup? Not trying to flame just curious because the guys I know who have similiar setups are all well above 400 with a single turbo.
Doug
08-15-2005, 09:42 PM
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ak ram.........what do you have your BD's set at?......ill be heading down to SC to pick them up tomarrow...........and plan on installing them tomorrow night as soon as i pull in the driveway......i plan to keep the boost lower then 50-55psi untill i get around to oringing the head and i want to get a remote start system installed aswell so i can start reheating the truck because normally the thing is dead cold when i go to try and jump on the interstate in the morning........and i know i tend to punch it a little to hard with it cold still.......
08-15-2005, 10:02 PM
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I run them at 63lbs. If I get a little crazy with the fuel I can push 67lbs where the wastegate is currently set. That is outside their maximum efficiency range as drive pressure overtakes boost when you reach 60lbs. Stay at 60lbs or less and they are perfect. If you add an external wastegate (don't know if you are) you can run them on up with no drive pressure worries at all.
08-16-2005, 07:48 AM
#37
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Originally posted by storx
....oringing of the head with install.....and i asked to have it done seperate and they wanted 1,300.00 i heard of places charged FAR LESSSSSS
....oringing of the head with install.....and i asked to have it done seperate and they wanted 1,300.00 i heard of places charged FAR LESSSSSS
It's a 10-15 hr job...even for a pro!
Don't cut corners here...the quality of the workmanship is all important.
WHen firerings first came out...they got a bad wrap cause they were no holding up. Turns out these were mostly, do-it-yourselfers! The one's Haisley does... seem to last very well.
RJ
08-16-2005, 09:22 AM
#38
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Originally posted by storx
63 PSI and your pushing 350hp?..............
63 PSI and your pushing 350hp?..............
Ok, that was a little confusing. Let me try this again.I rarely drive the truck around with everything set for max power all the time. At the power level that I drive the truck for every day commuting, which is around 350hp, I generally see high 40s in boost.
Press a button in the cab and I'm in kill mode, over 500hp, and I will generally run at 63lbs of boost.
08-16-2005, 03:30 PM
#39
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Originally posted by AK RAM
Ok, that was a little confusing. Let me try this again.
I rarely drive the truck around with everything set for max power all the time. At the power level that I drive the truck for every day commuting, which is around 350hp, I generally see high 40s in boost.
Press a button in the cab and I'm in kill mode, over 500hp, and I will generally run at 63lbs of boost.
Ok, that was a little confusing. Let me try this again.I rarely drive the truck around with everything set for max power all the time. At the power level that I drive the truck for every day commuting, which is around 350hp, I generally see high 40s in boost.
Press a button in the cab and I'm in kill mode, over 500hp, and I will generally run at 63lbs of boost.
electronic boost controler?......
08-16-2005, 03:55 PM
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ok here is my list of things i have and plan on getting........
Twins "In tomorrow"
ATS Manifold "In tomorrow"
FASS system "have"
EGT/FP/Tran gauges "have"
275 injectors "have" ***thinking of upgrading***
Edge Drag Comp "have"
Straight Pipes "have"
O-Rings "finding a good place to get done"
studs "not sure if i need if i oring the head"
anything else..........the more power i have on the truck the easyer the job is when i use it for my side work.......in other words i have less problems with traffic and going through the hills would seem much easyer with a full load.....when i get the twins i plan on upgrading to a 7 car trailer from a 5 car.........
Twins "In tomorrow"
ATS Manifold "In tomorrow"
FASS system "have"
EGT/FP/Tran gauges "have"
275 injectors "have" ***thinking of upgrading***
Edge Drag Comp "have"
Straight Pipes "have"
O-Rings "finding a good place to get done"
studs "not sure if i need if i oring the head"
anything else..........the more power i have on the truck the easyer the job is when i use it for my side work.......in other words i have less problems with traffic and going through the hills would seem much easyer with a full load.....when i get the twins i plan on upgrading to a 7 car trailer from a 5 car.........
08-16-2005, 04:05 PM
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i just called power by poole and asked them about O-ringing the head again........he said this..........
1,400.00 for the labor and machine work
400.00 for the Studs
250.00 for the "20" gaskets for the head
so thats....um.....carry the 4...........um yeah........2,050.00 plus taxes.........are u serious!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
i need to find somewhere that is a little more reasonable..........and what are the "20" gaskets that i will need?.........ill do the labor of install and removal of the head myself if thats the price for labor now adays......
1,400.00 for the labor and machine work
400.00 for the Studs
250.00 for the "20" gaskets for the head
so thats....um.....carry the 4...........um yeah........2,050.00 plus taxes.........are u serious!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
i need to find somewhere that is a little more reasonable..........and what are the "20" gaskets that i will need?.........ill do the labor of install and removal of the head myself if thats the price for labor now adays......
08-16-2005, 08:04 PM
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ak i have the edge drag comp with the new mapping from a fresh flash......how you go about setting it up with your box?.......adjust the wastegate or something?........but i could spike 40 psi on the stock turbo before it died after i reflashed the edge bios.....
08-16-2005, 08:12 PM
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The labor involved for R&R the head is a ton.... Doing it correct is another key issue here. I would not try and cut corners as you want reliabilty not just the cheapest.
If you R&R the head and take it to get decked and O-ringed that would save you around $800-$900, providing you have all the necessary tools. The .0020 over marine gasket is one from cummins, it is a 12v gasket that has been modified to fit a 24v. This is the best gasket available for our setup. This will also give you a little more valve relief so that maybe you wont have valve to piston contact with the increase boost from the twins.
Doug
If you R&R the head and take it to get decked and O-ringed that would save you around $800-$900, providing you have all the necessary tools. The .0020 over marine gasket is one from cummins, it is a 12v gasket that has been modified to fit a 24v. This is the best gasket available for our setup. This will also give you a little more valve relief so that maybe you wont have valve to piston contact with the increase boost from the twins.
Doug