Troutstrannysvc

I know I saw a timing chart somewhere on the site but I can not locate it.

I am wondering what is a safe setting for the time with the following mods;
Fuel plate grounded/slid forward, starwheel cranked, K&N CAI, 370Injectors, 191 dv valves, stock turbo.

Any help/input apprecaited!

cstroup

16.5 i believe is what ppl here recommend w/out a performance HG and/or including head studs for extra added insurance. Also not too good to tow with anything higher then that I believe.

heykw

How do you advance the timing? I have search and no one ever come out and says how to play by play.

Troutstrannysvc

http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1994/18-10-94a.htm
Hope that helps

displacedtexan

I don't know how to set it, but like 16.5* and wouldn't want to go higher on the stock HG.

Muddin_dude06

If you get a haynes manual at autozone it will tell you step by step how to do it, the first time you are kind of reading it like "what the heck do they mean?" but once you figure it out and do it once it is way easy. I had my timing slip from when I set it at 18.5* and I reset it to 17.75* today and tommorrow I think I am going to go to 20-21* I need it to pull harder to 4000rpm lol. Small things of advice....

When rotating the engine clockwise to get to the lift you want go way past it and then rotate it back to where you want counterclockwise. It also helps to take off the other DV holder-down-thingys, I had a really bad time setting my buddies timing because when I would go to the lift I wanted it would drop most of it from pressure on the cam in the pump.

Also get a can of electrical parts cleaner that you can spray upside down continueously. Makes cleaning the shaft a million times easier.

Make sure to check the lock washer for the pump shaft, if you need to replace it do so! The worst thing ever is to spend a couple hours advancing the timing to have it slip because the nut didn't keep enough pressure on the gear. FYI a 3/4" grade 8 will fit if you ream out the inside but I would just go nab a 7/8" or correct metric...

Tate

Why is that?

Muddin_dude06

In my experience it works a lot better, I want to think it is just pressure built up in the pump will push the cam in the pump back the way you don't want it to go. Like the other day I retimed my truck from where it had slipped to 14.5* and put it back at 17.5*, when I set my pump at 5.9mm of lift and popped the gear off the first time the lift dropped down to like 4.8mm. The second time I tried I went to like 9mm of lift and then rotated back to 5.9mm and when I popped the gear off it stayed right there.

Either tommorrow or sometime this weekend I am going to set my pump to 6.4-6.5mm of lift, 17.5* runs great on the street and pulls awesome from 1700ish to like 2800 and then it starts to drop off. I hope with about 20*-21* it will pull harder to 3600+

TIMMY22

pretty sure it's the backlash.

Muddin_dude06

I'm sure some of it is, but 2mm of lift nearly I would deffinately say no, there has to be some pressure in there...

Tate

If you've ever tried turning the pump by hand (or more specifically, a wrench), you can definitely feel the pressure inside, its like coming up on the compression stroke on an engine, but its really short.

OrangeCounty12V

Does advancing the timing change drivability. I have 370's, 0 plate, 3k gsk, and i'm still in need of doing my timing. I've heard the timing will make the truck feel lighter on its feet, but then i've also heard the exact opposite, in that you will feel a powerloss. Can someone fill me in on this. Thanks

Big Blue24

Timing will definately wake up your 2500 RPM and up problem. If your truck has stock timing, you will notice substantial gains in upper RPM power if you get it advanced to 17-18*. If running stock headbolts etc, don't go over 16* with your current fueling, and restrictive turbo though!