Well look at my sig.. I think its official i have lots of questions
10-28-2006, 12:10 PM
#31
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Chris
it is hooked up right now, and from what i can see even when its hooked up i can push boost well into the mid to high 30 psi in fifth gear, and in third and fourth it can soar up over 30, that is what concerns me
Plugged up i can hit 42-44 psi,
My loads wont be in the 30-38K like yours, at most give or take 35K gross, and on average 5K-15K.
By the looks of it, i think ur right, 20 degrees oughta work.. ANd ive never had a problem with my cooling system, at the highest ive seen it is at about 2/3 of the way up the meter, about 200 degrees maybe?
How would a valet switch work for towing, even with the higher timing, boost and twins? I do know taht id take the plate out of the question and run on injectors and DV's, but would it really be a practical solution?
My goal is a towable monster that can rock the rollers, and post decent times at the track, Im understanding towing with my setup might be risky now...
Rick
it is hooked up right now, and from what i can see even when its hooked up i can push boost well into the mid to high 30 psi in fifth gear, and in third and fourth it can soar up over 30, that is what concerns me
Plugged up i can hit 42-44 psi,
My loads wont be in the 30-38K like yours, at most give or take 35K gross, and on average 5K-15K.
By the looks of it, i think ur right, 20 degrees oughta work.. ANd ive never had a problem with my cooling system, at the highest ive seen it is at about 2/3 of the way up the meter, about 200 degrees maybe?
How would a valet switch work for towing, even with the higher timing, boost and twins? I do know taht id take the plate out of the question and run on injectors and DV's, but would it really be a practical solution?
My goal is a towable monster that can rock the rollers, and post decent times at the track, Im understanding towing with my setup might be risky now...
Rick
GET A VALET SWITCH!!!!! You'll thank me later.
Really, I couldn't be without my valet...at 402hp, I dropped to 328 with the valet. At 362hp, it went back to 254...which further tells me there was a lot more left at the 402hp number, but I was out of usable air, but that's another thread
The only problem with a valet is it takes the "punch" out of the power band...if you've ever driven a stock 24v, it drives like that. The power is there, but it takes RPM to get it! With the laser cuts, and 370's, you'll still have plenty of power, say 375+hp or so! From my experience, that's enough to pull almost anything!
Always remember that when you're towing, you really have to accept some trade-offs in all out power for driveability when you're loaded heavy. The stock charger really spoils you for spoolup and cruising, but a bigger charger is better on the hillclimbing usually...Twins give you the best of both worlds, but with 3.55's and a heavy load, they still don't pull in top gear @ 60mph like the stocker. The stocker is right in it's sweet spot at that range, and evrything else is just a touch too laggy to match it perfectly!
Am I confusing you yet??
Chris
10-28-2006, 12:14 PM
#32
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Personally, I loved the 5" straight with Twins sound...right at 21-2200 it would make a little racket, but no where NEAR as bad as a 4" straight with a B1
If you have 4", reduce it, if you wanna go 5", go for it...4" won't hurt you under normal everyday driving conditions, and actually, might spool a bit better! The 5" is for when you wanna use all 550+ ponies!
IMHO,
Chris
10-28-2006, 01:43 PM
#33
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Yes but you are extremely over fueled for that stocker...is it the Banks housing and actuator??
GET A VALET SWITCH!!!!! You'll thank me later.
Really, I couldn't be without my valet...at 402hp, I dropped to 328 with the valet. At 362hp, it went back to 254...which further tells me there was a lot more left at the 402hp number, but I was out of usable air, but that's another thread
The only problem with a valet is it takes the "punch" out of the power band...if you've ever driven a stock 24v, it drives like that. The power is there, but it takes RPM to get it! With the laser cuts, and 370's, you'll still have plenty of power, say 375+hp or so! From my experience, that's enough to pull almost anything!
Always remember that when you're towing, you really have to accept some trade-offs in all out power for driveability when you're loaded heavy. The stock charger really spoils you for spoolup and cruising, but a bigger charger is better on the hillclimbing usually...Twins give you the best of both worlds, but with 3.55's and a heavy load, they still don't pull in top gear @ 60mph like the stocker. The stocker is right in it's sweet spot at that range, and evrything else is just a touch too laggy to match it perfectly!
Am I confusing you yet??
Chris
GET A VALET SWITCH!!!!! You'll thank me later.
Really, I couldn't be without my valet...at 402hp, I dropped to 328 with the valet. At 362hp, it went back to 254...which further tells me there was a lot more left at the 402hp number, but I was out of usable air, but that's another thread
The only problem with a valet is it takes the "punch" out of the power band...if you've ever driven a stock 24v, it drives like that. The power is there, but it takes RPM to get it! With the laser cuts, and 370's, you'll still have plenty of power, say 375+hp or so! From my experience, that's enough to pull almost anything!
Always remember that when you're towing, you really have to accept some trade-offs in all out power for driveability when you're loaded heavy. The stock charger really spoils you for spoolup and cruising, but a bigger charger is better on the hillclimbing usually...Twins give you the best of both worlds, but with 3.55's and a heavy load, they still don't pull in top gear @ 60mph like the stocker. The stocker is right in it's sweet spot at that range, and evrything else is just a touch too laggy to match it perfectly!
Am I confusing you yet??
Chris
yes im confused now, but ill accept the trade offs... right now im at about 400 rwhp, im just super hot, so i do expect as a minimum once i get the head glued on to see about 450 cool horses with twins installed, give or take 500 with the laser cuts and plate, and possibly more with some timing...
Once i get the other turbo then ill worry bout water meth and 600 rwhp, till then, i just wanna tow with this thing,and rock the rollers as well...
Thanks Chris!
Rick
10-28-2006, 02:05 PM
#34
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Well the banks housing and actuator is why you're seeing high 30's for boost...it is set to like 32-34psi, so it wouldn't take much to get past that with your setup!
When you take it off to install the twins, see if the divider in the exhaust side is drilled so it wastes all 6 cylinders...if it's not, drill it! That will help! Also, I'm not sure it you'll like the Banks actuator on there with the twins, the big charger will spool a little slower, which won't help towing temps Try and find a stock one to bolt on when you do the install...or you can always try one out later! If you can't find one and want to try one, I'll bet I could round one up from all my junk 35's I've got laying around
What else are you confused on, we'll see if I can clarify!
Chris
When you take it off to install the twins, see if the divider in the exhaust side is drilled so it wastes all 6 cylinders...if it's not, drill it! That will help! Also, I'm not sure it you'll like the Banks actuator on there with the twins, the big charger will spool a little slower, which won't help towing temps
Try and find a stock one to bolt on when you do the install...or you can always try one out later! If you can't find one and want to try one, I'll bet I could round one up from all my junk 35's I've got laying aroundWhat else are you confused on, we'll see if I can clarify!
Chris
10-28-2006, 03:18 PM
#36
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Thanks Chris and Dusty
Chris, i have no idea what ur talkin about to drill, the manifold? or the wastegate... Ive heard or read about some people messin with the manifold to get it to gate all six cylinders, but id have to see a pic to get it
Imbecomingaseverepaininthebutt
Rick
Chris, i have no idea what ur talkin about to drill, the manifold? or the wastegate... Ive heard or read about some people messin with the manifold to get it to gate all six cylinders, but id have to see a pic to get it
Imbecomingaseverepaininthebutt
Rick
10-28-2006, 03:23 PM
#37
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do a search on crossdrilling the exhaust housing, simply put, you just pull the cast piece on the exhaust housing, that the exhaust elbow connects to (via the V-style clamp), it's held in place with I think 5, 1/2" bolts & then unhook the wastegate & then you drill a hole down through the divider where the flap is that the wastegate's arm hooks to,that way you wastegate all 6 cylinders rather than the 3 w/out the divider drilled, if you do a search there are some good pics & such, it's pretty simple after you see it!!! good luck, Dusty
10-28-2006, 05:16 PM
#38
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Thanks dusty..
new question... Right behind the right passenger motor mount, where the turbo mounting bracket goes, is taht a drain plug that is already there? Is that where the little nipple and oil drain from the bottom turbo go to?
Thanks guys!
Rick
new question... Right behind the right passenger motor mount, where the turbo mounting bracket goes, is taht a drain plug that is already there? Is that where the little nipple and oil drain from the bottom turbo go to?
Thanks guys!
Rick
10-28-2006, 05:49 PM
#39
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that should be it!! I was thinkin that most of the 12-v's had the extra drain port already on them, not sure where I remember hearing it, but for some reason I was thinkin they did??? but that sounds like what you've seen, Dusty
10-28-2006, 06:57 PM
#40
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when I got my truck it was reduced to 4" Rip Rook exhaust... I went 5" straight w/ a 6" tip, and it sounded way better!!!!!!!!!!!! not loud enough for my taste, but the dual turbines sounded AWESOME out the pipe! 
you'll be fine w/ 5" straight
you'll be fine w/ 5" straight
10-28-2006, 08:32 PM
#41
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I spent a while lookin for mine, and the closest thing i found that COULD BE a plug, is behind the motor mount (pretty close to where the second turbo would mount) that looks to go down into the crank case.. My truck is gonna have to be tapped and drilled for a drain, not liking the idea, but what can i do about it... Im sure it will be well worth it in the end...
I know that the 98 did, But i think its the frost plug that they are reffering to..
I did a search on rips twins, Bnold started that thread, and there is a guy with a 97 (mullady76?) who had issues with rips twins in that he didnt have the plug...
ON EDIT!!
wastegate works, just had to stay in it a little longer so that it would open, im seeing in third gear a max of 24-25 psi and egt gauge climbing severly, will try fourth and fifth tomorrow....
Rick
10-28-2006, 08:47 PM
#42
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Rick
10-28-2006, 10:24 PM
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so I guess it's all the 98'-up trucks that do have it then right?????? what you've found sounds like the port to me, should be to the left & down just a bit from the bottom rear most bolt in the motor mount, if that's where it's at sounds like you've been blessed with the 2nd oil port,you outta be able to pull that plug out & put the drain there, here ya go check out the 2nd post here- https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...wins+oil+drain good luck, Dusty
10-29-2006, 09:41 AM
#45
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so I guess it's all the 98'-up trucks that do have it then right?????? what you've found sounds like the port to me, should be to the left & down just a bit from the bottom rear most bolt in the motor mount, if that's where it's at sounds like you've been blessed with the 2nd oil port,you outta be able to pull that plug out & put the drain there, here ya go check out the 2nd post here- https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...wins+oil+drain good luck, Dusty
But im certain that i dont have it..... thanks dusty! Drilling and tapping seems to be my only option, no biggie, chris has the right idea on this.. Im off to find some PB blaster and start hitting all these bolts with it..
Rick