haloman

ya after that head gasket maybe like 20-22* should run good or bump it up more to make it run great.

signature600

In the side of the pan, yep! If you're lucky, you're engine might have the second drain back under the #5 cylinder, then all you'll need to do is knock that plug out and stick a drain in it!

Chris

BTW, drilling that hole is EASY!! I have a simple method to do it. I'll reply later with it, gotta get back to work!!

TxDiesel007

Do tell chris

thanks a bunch tho! i did notice that i have a slight problem with my boost issues right now, Before i get into that do tell how to drill that hole, and pm me with details, and ur talkin bout the frost plug by cylinder number five? ill look for it this weekend..

My issue now is that i can EASILY in third gear hit over 30 psi, 32 to be exact, and in fourth i can do the same thing, and fith even pushes the boost gauge to 40 psi....

Now how do i go about adjustin the gate? it is plugged in at the moment and i have no clue how to bring the boost down, aside from backing off the fuel plate...

Thanks guys! Keep the advice coming...

Rick

TxDiesel007

How much more would it need?

16.5 will not suffice? im thinkin it would be a really wicked setup as is, I want to gain more low end with the plate, and with the L/C DV's, chances are that im goin scheids for these anyways, so i know that they will fuel and hard...

Im skeptical but now i wanna know where my strong points will be, midrange? cause i doubt its low range now, and I know at the top end currently i run out of turbo...

thanks!

Rick

txdodge97

Pb blaster i used it on my stock down pipe when i did my exhaust you can get it at home depot.

signature600

It's not a "frost" plug...those are up higher on the block! Look through the BD Manual you downloaded...on pages 11-13 it shows you where the factory one might be, and also where to put the one in the pan if you need it!

Here's how I put mine in the pan...don't drain the oil yet. Drill a small hole (1/8") in the pan where BD's instructions tell you. Then take progressively larger punches (like a center punch) and drive them into the hole until it's big enough for the tube to slip in. If you don't have a big enough puch, anything round and tapered will work! Then when the put the tube in, angle the part inside the pan downwards a little (so the oil doesn't run out directly onto the spinning crank) and weld it up!

I had a little leak in mine...like 2 quarts a day...so a little JB weld sealed it up!

Any questions??

Chris

On the wastegate, do you have the factory boost elbow in it?? Or is it aftermarket??

TxDiesel007

wastegate is completely factory...

Havent messed with it except to plug it up, and then unplug it and run it regularly again

Rick

wana12v

with laser cuts 16.5 will definately not be enough. mines at 23* and run well, I would go from 22-25* anywhere in that range you dont have to be to exact it not as important as some tell you (ex. your not going to feel a difference between 16 and 16.5) but mid 20's will really wake her up and make her top end scream without a noticable loss of bottom end.

with the sps62 on top, laser cuts, ddp4's, and higher timing I would expect low to mid 600's out of that truck

also dont go with the schied cut dv's I can get the same thing for around $80 plus core. With scheid's you are just paying for the name, cut dv's are really not a complicated thing.

LanceD

can someone provide some links as to where I can download the twins install instructions also?

signature600

www.bd-power.com has them.

Also try Source Automotive!

Just unplug it, and it should be fine in a twinset. You want the top charger to start opening up at about 20psi, which is right at factory levels!

Make sense??
Chris

TxDiesel007

almost Gotcha,

U mean tho, unplug the rubber line from the steel line that runs to the gate tho? or undo the connection to the actuator?

Rick

TxDiesel007

Low to mid 600's and ill be more than happy with the truck...

however, im starting to see that i might get laser cuts tho, and not run them on the truck till i get studded, gasketed, and timed.. I do like that idea,

but how will such high timing work with a truck that tows like mine? or is a 600 horse supposed monster out of the question for now... I was actually lookin at 450-500 with my current setup right now

Thanks guys!

Keep the tips and hints comin

Rick

signature600

I towed at 17* up to about 35-38K lbs...but that was with a single, and boost was in the mid-high 30psi range! With twins, higher boost, higher timing, and heavy loads could do some damage. I would try 20* and see how that is!

Remember, the cooling system will support about 400-450hp when towing.

On the wastegate...you said you had it plugged so it wasn't functional, correct??? Just take your plug out, and make it work as factory again!

Chris

TxDiesel007

Chris

it is hooked up right now, and from what i can see even when its hooked up i can push boost well into the mid to high 30 psi in fifth gear, and in third and fourth it can soar up over 30, that is what concerns me

Plugged up i can hit 42-44 psi,

My loads wont be in the 30-38K like yours, at most give or take 35K gross, and on average 5K-15K.

By the looks of it, i think ur right, 20 degrees oughta work.. ANd ive never had a problem with my cooling system, at the highest ive seen it is at about 2/3 of the way up the meter, about 200 degrees maybe?

How would a valet switch work for towing, even with the higher timing, boost and twins? I do know taht id take the plate out of the question and run on injectors and DV's, but would it really be a practical solution?

My goal is a towable monster that can rock the rollers, and post decent times at the track, Im understanding towing with my setup might be risky now...

Rick

bnold

Ya I just meant exhaust size. Dont think anybody documented an actual increase going from a 4" to a 5" exhaust