Well I know this has been done before and I'm considering it.

I have a 99 dodge 3500 auto 24 valve.
I need to start driving longer distances FL-NC on a monthly basis10-15 times a year and I fear that I can be stranded with the VP44 style pump.

I'm considering converting the electrical VP44 pump and lift pump to an older style fully mechanical system.

Why do you guys think? Its it cost effective. Will it be great? Will it still idle and drive smooth and fast like now? Is it too complicated? Will this be the most bullet proof system for these 24 valve engine.

All else can be prevented by maitenance like water pumps alternator batt oil filters PS pumps, but with no fuel pump your dead on the road!

Any information on this? THnaks in advance!

 

Sure it can be done, but to have it done right I believe is around $11K if you don't do it yourself.

If you're looking for reliability out of a VP$$ truck some here will say you are SOL while others will say to simply get a FASS or the like and then you will not have to worry.

You could replace quite a few VP$$'s for $11K. It's been my experience from lurking here for so long that if a VP has an adequate amount of fuel and the revised circuit board it can last quite a while.

 

it's not $11k... it's not as bad as everyone thinks

but if it were me, I'd just build a 12v w/ a 24v block/crank.

 

Yeah I don't know maybe I should just do the FASS and see how long the VP 44 last. IF it leaves me stranded on the road it's a pain inthe butt to get fixed. Maybe I should jsut buy one and have it as a spare then. That way its ready for a mechanic to put in if needed. There has to be diesel mechanics accessible throughout my travel!

Where is the best place to get the FASS and what is the best price?


Thaks all for helping me decide what I originally was going to do. I didn't want to buy a new one becasue I love this truck,it's clean and strong, and best of all it's PAID FOR!!!

 

Crazy as it sounds.

My boat has a 24 valve diamond series Cummins with a MANUAL fuel pump system. I wonder why on boats but not on our trucks?

It was possible on marine but not on trucks???? Now it's confusing after I think about it!


Oh it's 330 HP, quiet smooth and rarely smokes! It's a real nice motor. I wish this can be in my Dodge. It was 21K new in 2002 or 3. Its not a QSB either!

 

Ahh, you better make a call to one of the shops that has done a 24V P-Pump conversion like PDW or Scheids. If you take the time to actually read my original post you will see that I stated to have someone else do it right would cost $11K. I have heard of guys having them done for less than $5K, but the end result is a poorly driveable truck with a less than professional looking installation.

 

all you need is the timing case, pump, and lines... I guess if you left dirty rags under the hood it would look less than professional...

what makes them so undrivable? as long as the injectors are set up for it, it's just like tuning a 12v

 

Silverram upgrade your lift pump and lines make sure you have a fuel pressure gauge carry a spare lift pump and a VP-44 along with the tools needed to change them even if you can not do it yourself. Then run with it!
This would be your best and most cost effective solution.
If you can wrench a little and can read a sevice manual you can repair it yourself at a parking lot or rest area and continue on.

 

If he buys a spare VP44 he will never get his big deposit back. they can be had pretty easily. But i second the spare LP and FP gauge.
the FASS is a very nice system but too expensive IMHO. Look at the Vulcan LP relocation and big line kit or the Glacier system with the Walbro pump. All very nice, i have put on all but the FASS, in my chapter members trucks and they all like all of them.

 

Yes i agree on the glaicer system with the walbro pump i think that would be a good choice.
As far as the VP-44 if you look around you can pick up a cheap broken one to turn in for the core.
I think he can cover everything for less than $1800 very easy with a little shopping around and far less than the $5-11k to p-pump it.
He will retain driveability as well as good mileage and the truck will still be serviceable by any decent shop or individual in other words not a one off custom style set up.
If he breaks down without carrying the a spare VP44 then depending on what day of the week and where he is it could take as much as 3-4 days or more to get a pump and be going again.Also a tow bill, motel, etc.
I am just setting him up for the maximum reliability like he asked for anything less would of course be his choice.

 

Hey thanks for all the good ideas. I think I will pickup a new VP44 and keep my used running VP44 as a spare.

Now I just need to decide,
Do I get the FASS or walboro or the holley blue. I know the FASS is proven and pricey but I want performance and reliabiltiy!

What is the most common LP that gives reliabilty and performance???

 

I'm looking at this pump:
http://www.wickeddiesels.com/eliminator.htm

It looks very reliable
If I don't do this I will be going with a new cam and a mechanical pump.

 

A lot of guys who go the cheaper route tend not to buy the new correctly bent injector lines, don't consult the right folks about injectors and have a really hard time getting the APPS to play nice with the P7100. Until the HPCR engines arrived a P pumped 24V was a viable alternative albeit costly, but now there is really no justification to the cost of doing it right or the headaches with not doing it right.

 

well, like I said, I'd just swap a 12v engine in it and sell the 24v engine to re-coup the cost

 

Marine (and industrial) applications fall under different emissions requirements that do automotive. That is the prime reason for that.