Got the stage 2 snow kit hooked up. Pretty nice kit. Don't have an LED on it yet but I do have a lighted switch to let me know when it's turned on. Don't have it fine tuned yet either but I've got it coming on full bore at 20psi, I think.

The reason I say I think is because I never really noticed a drop in EGT's at WOT. I had the smarty on 3 and the TST turned off and without the spray I was hitting about 1150-1200 and I was hitting the same with the spray. I didn't even know that it was coming on and actually working until I pulled the line off going to the head and it had fluid in it.

My buddy and I also noticed a stutter or something on a couple of runs when it was spraying I guess. Felt almost like the injection pump shuddering. Could it be the system just getting the air out of the lines?

Definately gonna have to tune this system a lot more. I'm running a .375 and a .625 nozzle in the intake. And yes, I know the headgasket is at risk. As soon as my tax return comes back I'm locking the head down. I've got enough self control to keep it turned off unless I absolutely need it which I really don't.

I guess what I'm asking is does this all sound normal or what? I'm only running windshield washer fluid in it right now. I need to drain the tank and refill it with some better stuff though. Probably just gonna go and put water in it and leave it be.

 

Sounds like it's just before bogging. Reset the start-point to 15psig and the full-on to 30psig.

In a pinch, you can add two bottles of the Heet brand de-icer (or equivalent, methanol not Isopropal) per gallon of the basic -30*F stuff to be close to a 50/50 blend.

Drive safely.

 

That is a blatant lie.

 

Sounds like you are putting too much through it too easy when it shudders. Raise the psi on the first stage a few and try that. Washer fluid is just fine for testing.

 

BigBlue:

I agree with what "wildmanben" is telling you on the water. I think you are possibly putting too much in there too.

I have run both the Snow System and now Scheid's Water Injection System with the Scheid nozzles going directly into the head, versus the Snow nozzles being in my air horn.

One suggestion I would offer you on the Snow System (if you haven't done it already) is to take the nozzle(s) out of the air horn or wherever you have them installed. Pull them and the hoses to a point just above the lip of your hood to where you can tape the nozzle to the windshield. Then close the hood and go for a ride. When you get to the "preset" boost pressure, say 20lbs., the water will come on and you can MAKE SURE that the nozzles are operating properly. You will then be able to see the if the water is spraying good, how long it stays on and if in fact it shuts off when it's supposed to.
My early "trials" with my Snow System revealed that my system was not shutting off when it should and I had the similar "shudder or stutter" you describe on mine also. IMO,....it is alot easier to make "adjustments" like this than when the nozzles are installed under the hood, as you can see what's going on better. Once you have the tuning done outside, then it is easy to re-install the nozzles under the hood and go from there.

Also, I recommend you run some kind of water system lubricant with your water! You can buy a product at NAPA called "Number 13" which is good.
This product will keep your pump and internals in the Cummins Engine from forming rust. I ran without it prior to having the Scheid System and I had rust build-up starting in the intake section of my cylinder head.

Sorry this was so long. Hope this has helped you some Big Blue.
Good luck!

---------
John_P

 

You could also simply connect a regulated air supply to your boost sensor and watching your gauge, set accordingly (have the air plumbed so it feeds your W/M control, boost gauge, and wastegate at once. Check it all using the one standard).

 

That's what I was planning on doing later. I was gonna hook my buddy's air compressor up and set it to 20psi and have the system start coming on then and then go from there. Ya gotta love the fact that there are no pointers or indicators on the ***** to tell you where the dang thing is set at.

 

Full bore at 20 psi is to early...especially for washer fluid. Better to ramp it up from 20 (start) to 30 psi (full on).
You will, in time, realize egt's rise more slowly.
To evaluate if nozzles are working (EGT control), back off to 3/4 throttle (for a sec or two) around 1,000* and then roll into WOT again. On mine the egt's will stay at 1000* for a long time after doing this.
For some reason the Snow's system seems to need to 'catch up' before doing it's thing really well. Anything less than WOT and it reduces EGT's at all power levels?? This makes it especially nice for heavy towing.

RJ

 

RJ the only reason I've got it coming on full bore at 20 is because I have no idea where the max setting is set at so I turned it all the way down and just put the starting point at I think around 20. I'm gonna use my buddy's air compressor today when I get home from class to fine tune this thing.

 

DOn't quite follow what you did...but sounds like you get what myself & others are saying!

RJ

 

On the snow controllers if you turn the full psi screw all the way down to 0 and turn the min psi screw up then instead of coming on gradually it sprays at full psi once it hits the min psi point. That's how mine's setup right now cause I have absolutely no idea where the max screw is set at.

 

Sounds like you could be quenching right off the bat... The way you have it set up is no different than a hobbs style system... Work the tuning out

 

Did not know that!

RJ