Well I just got done doing the washer GSK using 12mm flat washers that were/are .085 thick. My biggest thing to say is WAHOO! pulls MUCH harder throughout the RPM's! I was able to rev (pulling stong) to 3500RPM's but backed out do to not having HD valve springs and also oh yeah... I accidently unplugged a brake vacuum line so I had a very hard to push pedal (but I just fixed that ). I know it's kind of beating a dead horse but I just thought I would post to share my good results and to help encourage anyone thinking about a GSK to try this first, the installation also is not hard at all and pulls NICE. Have a good 'un everyone!

 

No weird idle, sticky pedal, or any other issues? How long did it take?

 

No, my idle is perfectly smooth at about 50RPM's more than it previously was (now it is like 750-775). Pedal is a little more sensitive but not "touchy", and there is no hang up at all revving through the gears when the throttle is released. Haha It took me about 2 hours, and the last hour spent I couldn't get the dang access plug's threads started again. I got so discouraged with it I stopped to eat dinner and watch TV, turns out it I wasn't holding the fuel soleniod linkage out of the way enough so the edge of the plug was catching on the linkage. As soon as I figured it out the access plug went in at a totall of like 45 seconds, and everything else was back together in just a few more minutes. I used PDR's instructions to go by http://piersdiesel.com/TechGSK12V.htm some parts of their instructions are a little wierd but gave me a good idea of everything, and helped it be an easy install. One thing I will say that is a big help is using a zip-tie and holding all those dang things of wire out of the way, it helps SOO much! I really want to add some HD valve springs and see what it will pull/rev to

 

So when installing a GSK (or a washer) do you need to remove the AFC to line up the governor arm? If so, then it would probably make sense to do any planned fuel plate mods at the same time then, right?

 

Yea, the Gov Springs are actually underneath the Plate, so you're going to need to pull the plate anyway...which means you better grind the plate down if you plan on doing it anyways, just saves a lot if time.

 

That is one way of doing the GSK; going in through the AFC housing by removing the plate. You have to use a magnet from my understanding on every piece when using this process. I personally am kinda short when it comes to patience so that was not a good route for me, lol. Going in through the access plug you only have to remove (and set aside) the fuel soleniod, which is pretty quik and painless. The best way to turn the engine over is a barring tool, but since I don't have one I used the alternator nut which worked pretty good. Now I really need to stud/ring the head and advance my timing WAY up there