HOHN

I'd guess a 150hp stick runs hotter than a 110hp one-- probably quite a bit.

You'd probably need a Sledpuller66 to cool the M4s. Towing with big sticks can be done, but you MUST respect the PYRO!!

Looks like you've spent some money getting your existing combo dialed in-- any reason you want to change a good combo? I can't see how you wouldn't have enough power to tow your combo

More Power

I have plenty of power for towing and have tryed many turbos on the market. Iam happy with what i got but can always use more power when not towing. Thanks for the reply.

HOHN

OH!!!

Well, as long as your desire for a larger stick is based on The Disease we all share, and not logic

And an update: the truck's computer is getting used to the sticks, or something. Maybe it's just ME getting more used to them. The truck is getting more driveable as time passes.

I can't get over the FUEL ECONOMY! I'm a logical kinda guy, and I can't see how going from a 75hp stick to a 150hp one can INCREASE mileage, but it's happening to me!

The driving experience is a lot like the sensation of constantly holding back. Almost like it's all you can do to keep the truck from taking off of its own willpower.

The truck wants to MOVE now, and resents me holding it back!

Justin

Moose10

Hohn, can you tell me more exactly what you did to your turbo? It's still the HX-35 right? Still the stock clutch? What are you egt's like with the new sticks?
Thanks !!!

HOHN

I did a lot of carving to my turbo and exhaust manifold. Yes, it's the stock HX35.

I first opened up the head flanges so that there was a very slight "step" as the exhaust passed from head to manifold. This helps to reduce reversion. It's basically a port match, "plus".

Inside the manifold, I just did some minor stuff intended to help reduce the twisting and turning the flow has to make. It probably had no measureable effect.

The bulk of the grinding was at the flange where the manifold and turbo meet, and on the turbine housing. You'll notice (if you take it apart) that there's a "hump" in the corner of the flange area on both the manifold and the housing. This reduces the cross-sectional area and flow potential.

I just scribed the shape of the gasket on the two surfaces and opened it up to match. Then I deep-ported the manifold and housing to blend in the changes I made to the flange area.

Then, I drilled a hole between the two scrolls in the turbine housing and enlarged it to about 5/8". This allows the wastegate to vent all 6 cylinders, not just the back 3. Again, I blended it with the surrounding area to smooth it over some.

Finally, I hogged out the wastegate passage as large as I could and still have it be sealed by the flapper. This will make the gate more effective at limiting boost, and increases the overall flow of the housing.

BE CAREFUL, though-- if you enlarge the hole enough to where the flapper won't seal anymore, then you will have a laggy, crappy turbo.

Overall results were positive-- the engine no longer felt "tight" on the boost, peak boost was unchanged, and spoolup was decreased almost imperceptibly.

I'd do it again.

jlh