I have the manual for the install found herehttp://www.glacierdieselpower.com/im...rf-Install.pdf

But have some questions on steps 8, 9 and 10. It says to cut the metal line from the tank, not a biggie and replace the rest forword with the supplied new rubber 3/8" line. Why would I want to reuse the stock metal line from the tank? I've read over and over this line tends to leak at the top of the tank, did I read that correct? Wouldn't I be better off putting in all new line from the tank forward?
Is this step of reusing the metal line just done to make the install easier. If I do use all new line from the tank do I need to lift the bed or drop the fuel tank to gain access?

Thanks everyone. Just trying to get all my ducks in a row to make this go as easy as possible.

 

When I installed my walbro, I cut the line. The reason for this I believe, is because you will need a new pickup unit otherwise, I believe they are called draw straw kits, they have a bigger pickup tube. You can't just drop a rubber hose into the fuel tank or it will float around in there, and if the hose end get above the fuel, you'll just be drawing air. I didn't get a look at the top of my tank to see what is involved in changing the pickup tube out, but the tank will need to be dropped, or the bed removed to get access. Hope this helped some.

 

Thanks that did help. I thought the metal line was just a fitting on the top of the fuel tank.

Next question though. I can't link a picture but it's on page 4 and 7 of the install instructions I posted above.

The bypass T and bypass valve are after the fp but before the VP. With this setup how are you limiting pressure to the VP? Does the bypass T reduce the flow? I thought the bypass valve did that. If that's the case you are limiting the return pressure into the filler neck but putting full flow to the VP???

Thanks again.

 

MY experience is that the pickups tend to rust out on the pickup tube on top of the tank, not the fuel line (that runs along the frame). I'll have to get under there tonight and see how the two lines are connected, but cutting the metal fuel line all the way back there wouldn't be much help I dont think, and you'll still have the metal pickup that comes through the top of the tank, that will be the culprit for leaks.

The T leads the fp outlet into 2 outlets. The main one going to the VP, and the second going to the bypass. What happens is pressure builds up in both lines, at the "burst" pressure for the bypass, the bypass valve opens, letting all the extra fuel past and back into the return line to the tank, relieving the pressure (down to the bypass burst pressure) in both lines. My fuel gauge is located well after the bypass (between the fuel filter and VP and I am at 12.5 psi idle ( I modified my bypass for that pressure stock walbro setup was over 15, just a personal preference).

 

Exactly

Chris

 

As always good information.

Thanks again. Sometimes I just over analyze things I even called Glacier and couldn't figure why the regulator wasn't past the T fitting but then the pump would be pumping 100% capacity all the time. Maybe I still got that wrong but 2 answers with the same results are good enough for me.

So greasemonki, was the install about 2-3 hours like the instructions say. I might have to do this after work in the dark. Trying to get camping for the first time of the season next weekend.

TIA.

Bill.

 

When I installed my Walbro I removed the wheel and the fender liner and was able to set on a stool and disconnect the fuel line at the tank. I sealed the end of the line and just left it on. The fastners on the fender liner just pull out the center pin and they will come out and use them over. Hope thi helps.

 

Lenn your not too far away, have any plans or want to try your luck with a 2nd Walbro

I would really like to replace the lines all the way back to the tank if possible and your reply sounds possible and or easier than I was thinking. Did you by chance buy the kit from Glacier Diesel? Only reason I ask is the kit only comes with 20' of fuel line. I know I could go out and buy more but if that's enough and I don't run out in the middle of the job that would be better to know. Also on the tank. The hard lines, did they just unscrew? New hose and clamps or did you have to get fittings to adapt a threaded end into the 3/8's" hose.

Thanks

After thinking that again if I were to replace the return line I know I need more line.

 

I'm not sure about trying a second one it took me longer than 2 hours. The gas line has clips on the tank that holds the line on. You have to be careful not break off the part coming out of the tank it is plastic. I just clamped the hose ont to the tank. It is easer to put the return tee on with the fender liner off. I got my kit from wideopendiesel.com http://www.wideopendiesel.com/page4.html Try this link and read their instructions. If I can give you any advice let me know. It works great. I put on my BHAF filter today.