Txwelder

I am happy with my #100 plate. I get alot more fuel on the bottom end and can make a nice cloud of smoke if I desire. The top end is awesome, as soon as it shifts into 4th and locks it is hard to keep that truck from running away from me. Very responsive over 1800 RPM. In the bottom end and off the line it still seems like a slug. Pulled up next to a Duramax and the guy smoked me off the line but had no problem catching him. What to do to get more power in the bottom end? Thanks.

gunracer1

get a good converter, that is the main thing holding you back right now. you will think you have picked up 100hp with a decent converter.

cumminsdriver635

Well, a good converter would be best but if your converter doesent slip any in lockup right now, then you will be fine with a 3k GSK. My governor spring kit made a HUGE difference in the driveability of the truck, and will REALLY help until you hit lockup in 4th. It will make a big difference. It helps make a lot better use of the stock converters stall speed since it will actually still fuel hard all the way up to 3k and actually still be trying to pull past the converters stall which makes it make a lot better use of the power. Buy one for the $125 and you wont be dissapointed.

Eric

CTD NUT

Gunracer1 is right about the converter.....the #100 plate is very aggressive down low and WILL effect the stall speed of the stock converter and cause excessive slip. There will be no substitute for a strong converter with a low stall speed......but there is a difference between a CTD witha lazy bottom end and a slippery converter. How does it feel? Is it really strong on the bottom end but the power isn't getting to the ground? Or does it feel lazy and does not have a lot of converter slip? How about that AFC spring? Slacken it off all the way and see how the bottom end feels......if the spring is too tight, you may be losing the low boost enrichment you need to bring the bottom end lag to a minimum. One other thing to check is the governor arm......make sure it contacts the cam plate correctly and does not slip underneath the plate.

gunracer1

he is getting the fuel, just not putting the power to the ground. the 3k kit will make it feel better but a converter is the best fix. you will find after the 3k kit that your converter will start stalling higher and higher. last truck we put a #100 plate in did this in 1k miles. stalled at 2600 or so at first, was almost at 3k 1 k later.

Txwelder

I do know how a slipping 700R4 behind a L98 TPI Corvette engine in a 4X4 Chevy feels, and this tranny feels nothing like that. The fuel plate is in the stock position and not ground any shorter than it was stock so I cant see why the governor arm would go underneath the plate if it didnt do it before. Im not exactly sure how to tell when the converter stalls either. I understand the concept but not spooled up on the works of it. Im not unhappy with the truck, just wasnt what I thought I was going to get out of the bottom end with the plate installed. How is the AFC spring adjusted, from the back of the housing? If so how many turs in what direction? Thanks for the help.

Kevin

HOHN

If you can, do BOTH the converter and GSK. I'd say converter first. Think Suncoast.

But what do I know, I'm a 24V stick shift guy!

Rockyhud

Kevin, I'd agree with Hohn - converter and 3KGSK.

BTW what are your EGTs now with the 100 plate. I ground my stock plate into a 10 plate and have been enjoying it a lot. So far the highest EGTs I've been able to get is 1300 and that was foot to the floor in 4th and letting it run hard up to about 3400-3500 while entering an interstate which I think took about 5-7 seconds to get from about 35 up to about 80 before letting off and shifting to 5th. EGTs wouldn't go any higher which I'm glad of that. My plate is set in the middle, right where the stock profile plate was before. Just curious how hot your's runs.

Steve

cumminsdriver635

It all depends on what hes talking about. Are you talking about not having much get up in 1st-3rd gears before the converter locks up, or are you talking about before the turbo spools in 1st gear? If the truck just doesent feel that fast before the converter locks, then you need the governor spring kit. But if you're talking about turbo lag only in 1st gear when mashing it from a stop, then the gsk wont help that issue. The converter cant "slip" before it locks up because it's essentially slipping ALL the time before the converter locks up in 4th gear. I think a GSK will fix what he is talking about. A converter is not NEEDED until it starts slipping when its locked up. As long as its not doing that then i dont think thats your problem.

Eric

gwhammy

A tighter convertor will help on takeoff as long as it is not to tight. A little timing will help get it spooling faster too but with a stock convertor all the extra hp. will go up in heat after a certain level.Good luck, sounds like you're hooked!

Txwelder

Well it is like cumminsdriver635 was talking about, it seems sluggish until the converter locks in 4th gear. My wife has alloted me $1k to spend after the house is sold. I dont know if I could get a good converter and a 3kGSK for that price. I had intended on getting the 3kGSK, injectors and delivery valves and working from there. But if there is a better route then I am open to suggestions. My truck at WOT in 4th locked doesnt get hotter than 1050-1100 degrees with 30 psi peak boost unloaded flat ground. Havnt towed with the current setup as of yet, but next month will be the tell all.

SHARPMACHINE

Hope I'm not repeating someone, but how many rpm's will your truck pull hard up to? My truck would pull hard to 1900rpm stock, so the 3gsk really helped alot. Some trucks pull hard up to 2800+/-, macking a gsk much less necc..

If your truck pulls hard up to 2500+ rpm than it is tranny upgrades you need. Call georands and tell him what your looking to do with your truck and maybe he can help. $1000 will be a little low for serious tranny upgrades though.


just my .002

gunracer1

you can get a decent convert, 3k gsk and 370s for a grand if ya shop it right.

cumminsdriver635

-Goerend single disc: $650
-3k GSK:$125
-370's: $300

You arent far off if thats how you want to go, but this is what i would reccomend with 1k dollars.

Goerend single disk: $650
3k GSK: $125
Built Valve Body:$300

I have a transgo i bought for $50 on ebay, and it made a world of difference. So if you dont want to spend $300 on a valve body, at least get a decent shift kit. Go ahead, and get the 3k GSK, and converter, and valve body/shift kit, and you will feel like you have a whole new truck.

Eric

Txwelder

At about 2250-2600 it starts to get to the end of the line. Seems like you could press the throttle harder but nothing really happens. I just switched from 33/12.50/16.5's back to a stock wheel and 265/75/16's so in the top end it seems to run out faster than with the 33's. The tires arent much smaller but I can tell a difference. So if I skip the injector and just get the converter and 3kGSK then I will have a little to play with afterwards. Decisions, Decisions, not sure what to do but I guess eventually I will buy it all just want the good stuff now! Thanks for the input and if anyone has anymore info then please chime in.

Kevin