GlennRMK

Ok, want to hook up my fuel pressure gauge to my VP44 test port.

Went to NAPA today and ordered a right angle fitting to adapt the to the back of the gauge. Going to use oil pressure tubing kit. Got needle valve.

Now, I am trying to figure out what is needed to hook up to the VP44 test port.

Its the same size fitting as the back of my fuel pressure gauge. But, how does fuel flow out of the test port?

I searched a bit, and found some people saying its a Schrader valve? And someone else an R12 AC hose works.

So, I'm assuming, its like the A/C type hoses were you push it on or in this case, thread it on and it pushes the valve open so fuel flows out?

Is Schrader valve what I ask for from NAPA? This is 1/4", correct?

I should not lose any fuel or have to bleed the lines or anything, if I hook it up this way, correct?

Should I use a greese gun hose after the needle valve to take away some of the vibration/pulsing?

I don't want to tap the bottom of the fuel filter. Seems like a PIA. Plus, then you would spill a bunch of fuel and have to bleed the lines, correct. I don't get how you even get a drill in there.

Also, I would rather know right at the VP, rather then wondering if the fuel filter is just dirty and needs to be changed or the VP44 or lift pump is bad.

I got the 1/8 NPT tap for the pyrometer.

Going to get 3/4" to 1/8" NPT adapter for boost gauge.

We will see how smooth this install goes.

CapnRam

I did the same install...the fitting on the VP is a Schrader valve, like on a bike, you have to get a tool and take the guts out of it, then the fitting your looking for is a -4AN fitting, that is also the same as your fuel gauge, I went down to a local speed shop and had one built out of steel braided line, both ends and 5" of line was around 50.00...so for your fittin you need a
-4AN fitting on both ends, i used a 90* at the VP then I put a 45* at the gauge, it was on the bottom of the 3 gauges, if your doin this set up, just use a straight -4an off the gauge if your install on the bottom of the pillar, there is room and the fitting is cheaper. Hope this helps...


Capn

phox_mulder

Pretty sure the AC fitting pushes in the valve to let the fuel flow,
much like it pushes the valve on a can of freon.

That fitting on the VP is what is referred to as the Schraeder Valve.
So what you'd ask for is a fitting that screws onto the Schraeder.


phox

GlennRMK

My roommate works @ NAPA, and he said that he can not find a fitting that would screw into it. And that I would need to remove that fitting and put something else in the pump.

But that is pain in the butt, because fuel is going to poor out, its going to have to be bled, etc.

**** fuel pressure gauge. What a pain.

CTD NUT

For the record, the fitting is a -4 SAE which has a 45* flare, where as the -4 AN (JIC) has a 37* flare......however, you CAN screw the 37* AN or JIC hydraulic fitting onto the 45* SAE banjo bolt on the pump without fear of a leak.....I have done it on a few trucks and they work fine - the pressure is far too low to be an issue......if you go to a hydraulic supplier, they can provide you with either the JIC or the SAE fitting....or as CapnRam mentioned, go to a speed shop and get the AN fitting - it is the exactly the same as the JIC.

You just use a valve core remover to unscrew the valve in the banjo bolt.....this really isn't a big deal......and don't worry about a bit of fuel leaking out.....if your LP is fine, it will prime the system instantly and there will be no need for bleeding any air out of the system.

AAmeeting

genos garage sell a hose that goes from that to a sender. 18.00 works great no problems at all. I have an electric autometer z series gauge.
http://198.104.149.53/CoastalData/sh...D=1749&CATID=1

rebal

piers has the whole set up and every thing you need to do it. if you get stuck give them a call

GlennRMK

well, figured it out, I think

Using a hose from a fuel injection test kit

Has the little dimple on the end to push in the valve. Has1/8" NPT on the other side.

Should work, I think