VP44 recommendations
#16
Since you have a manual you should be "fine" - you will be able to black out intersections etc, but you will be able to drive around this- with more power than stock.
But you will not be able to really use the new fueling, simply because you will toast the engine.
I would go for twins with fueling like that, because you will have much better EGT management on high power runs.
With the stock turbo you will need to glue one eye on the pyro.
You will have very high backpressure, so you will have to think about studs and o-rings- or kiss your headgasket goodbye (If you try to use the fuel you have with this stuff).
In my opinion even an edge comp ist too much for the stock turbo on the SO with a stock pump. I think a lot of the fueling upgrades just get you to where you are only able to use 1/4 go pedal and anything more is asking for trouble.
Trouble begets damage, damage begets repair bills...
Or: Why do we never have the funds to do it right the first time but then we have an unlimited budget for repairs?
Just my 2c
AlpineRAM
But you will not be able to really use the new fueling, simply because you will toast the engine.
I would go for twins with fueling like that, because you will have much better EGT management on high power runs.
With the stock turbo you will need to glue one eye on the pyro.
You will have very high backpressure, so you will have to think about studs and o-rings- or kiss your headgasket goodbye (If you try to use the fuel you have with this stuff).
In my opinion even an edge comp ist too much for the stock turbo on the SO with a stock pump. I think a lot of the fueling upgrades just get you to where you are only able to use 1/4 go pedal and anything more is asking for trouble.
Trouble begets damage, damage begets repair bills...
Or: Why do we never have the funds to do it right the first time but then we have an unlimited budget for repairs?
Just my 2c
AlpineRAM
#17
Depending on how much fuel the HRVP44 adds down low, you can still get rolling without smoke. But you do need to keep the revs up on shifts. Nothing you can't learn to drive around, just takes some getting used to. I ran Mach 6s for a short period, before dropping back to the 4s. This is all with the KSB1 turbo, so I would say you'll be short of air with the HX35. You'll spool up quick, but you probably won't clean up the top end. I'm still trailing a cloud on the top end with my setup.
#18
sorry I did not mean to open up a bomb on ya.
So with the set up and a stick like i originally said. you will need to re learn to drive it. it will be very easy to make smoke. and not just smoke but dark black smoke. That means hot quick egt's.
I had mach 4's TST PMAX and a phat shaft 62 with studs and a fass on my first bomb wave of life. I lifted a head gasket once. and another time I got so hot I dropped a exhaust valve that kissed a piston that kissed everything.
because of that is the reason on my rebuild I'm running what I have now on my truck.
I'm not a easy going driver. I'm really hard on my truck. and that likely added to it. but I always warmed up the truck and cooled down. it just got hot way to many times collectively.
you need IMO atleast a 62/65/14 Turbo to really use the fuel you are adding and get the driveability back plus keep egt's in check.
even with this set up you could have hi EGT's based on edge setting , elevation and towing weight.
So with the set up and a stick like i originally said. you will need to re learn to drive it. it will be very easy to make smoke. and not just smoke but dark black smoke. That means hot quick egt's.
I had mach 4's TST PMAX and a phat shaft 62 with studs and a fass on my first bomb wave of life. I lifted a head gasket once. and another time I got so hot I dropped a exhaust valve that kissed a piston that kissed everything.
because of that is the reason on my rebuild I'm running what I have now on my truck.
I'm not a easy going driver. I'm really hard on my truck. and that likely added to it. but I always warmed up the truck and cooled down. it just got hot way to many times collectively.
you need IMO atleast a 62/65/14 Turbo to really use the fuel you are adding and get the driveability back plus keep egt's in check.
even with this set up you could have hi EGT's based on edge setting , elevation and towing weight.
#19
OK, so turbo is definitely on the list for next purchase.
with that said, looking for some first hand experiences, if possible, to point me in correct direction.
"62/65/14"...not sure what those mean. I'm sure they refer to housing, turbine etc etc sizes...
i do not do sled pulls nor tow >10K.
I just need to run the truck efficiently with the fuel mods that are in process.
blacking out an intersection is not what i want to do (i'm not 19 years old looking for attention) but if it is a by product of the turbo/fuel, i'll live with it.
just looking for a single turbo. i don't think a twin turbo is in my budget. someone mentioned using my stock turbo as the small one. if that is a "good" idea, then i'd like to hear the solutions for the second, larger turbo.
with all things considered, i don't want a monstrous single turbo that takes longer than desired spool up and only good at top RPMs. Does that exist?
i appreciate all the information.
thank you
with that said, looking for some first hand experiences, if possible, to point me in correct direction.
"62/65/14"...not sure what those mean. I'm sure they refer to housing, turbine etc etc sizes...
i do not do sled pulls nor tow >10K.
I just need to run the truck efficiently with the fuel mods that are in process.
blacking out an intersection is not what i want to do (i'm not 19 years old looking for attention) but if it is a by product of the turbo/fuel, i'll live with it.
just looking for a single turbo. i don't think a twin turbo is in my budget. someone mentioned using my stock turbo as the small one. if that is a "good" idea, then i'd like to hear the solutions for the second, larger turbo.
with all things considered, i don't want a monstrous single turbo that takes longer than desired spool up and only good at top RPMs. Does that exist?
i appreciate all the information.
thank you
#20
Hi JJ!
In my opinion you seem to want stock or quicker spool to have more fun at every intersection without blacking out the block. And you want enough air for all the fuel you have with decent backpressure and good EGT control.
But you would err towards spool and sacrifice a bit of sustained top end power- that's how I understand your post.
I am going against the popular grain of tuning here- but in my personal experience the HX 35 is a good top turbo, and will not choke out your engine if you do modify it.
The problem is that the HX35 has an abysmally small wastegate, and does only relieve pressure from the rear 3 cylinders. This is OK for stock fueling, but limits the extra fuel severely. What I usually do is that I drill the divider with the same diameter as the stock wastegate hole, and then ream the wastegate hole to 43% more diameter- effectively doubling the area for the rear cylinder venting, and therefore reducing backpressure on all 6 cylinders. I do also increase the flange thickness of the wastegate housing so that the flapper can move further. (By cutting the shape from a piece of mild steel about 8mm thick)
All this can be done with standard shop tools without any problems.
There was a very nice product called Megamouth that was the bees knee for that application because it removed the restriction from the exhaust gas flow of the open wastegate.
Modifying the stock wastegate or adding a divorced wastegate is the key to success in twins with the HX35 in my opinion and experience.
With a stock turbo without these mods you simply will not get all the exhaust gas through the turbo, and therefore suffer from high backpressure and also not enough energy to drive your primary.
I have run up to an HX55 under the HX35 with those mods and got it to spool nicely (for such a big turbo)
This gave me enough air to really clean up a decently running P-Pumped 24V up to 3.5k rpm in OD converter locked.
(Sorry no dyno runs with this truck, it was a daily driver until it was run off the road..)
Any single turbo that tries to give you good boost at low rpms and spool quickly will have a big downfall higher up and a big single will give you laaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaag.
The "mild" twinning I suggested works from a low factor of compound compressing and just makes the small top turbo get out of the way of the exhaust gas under high load, where the big one is spooled. Naturally you will not have the power and the air of "proper" twins, but rather a big single with better low end manners.
Another way to get where you want would be a VG turbo. If I recall it correctly there was/is a company called fleece that has developed a standalone controller for Holset VGT chargers. I never had one to test and never had any business with them. But I would like to build a set of VG twins nevertheless, but I would love to do this with my own arduino controller. (In what spare time????)
HTH
AlpineRAM
In my opinion you seem to want stock or quicker spool to have more fun at every intersection without blacking out the block. And you want enough air for all the fuel you have with decent backpressure and good EGT control.
But you would err towards spool and sacrifice a bit of sustained top end power- that's how I understand your post.
I am going against the popular grain of tuning here- but in my personal experience the HX 35 is a good top turbo, and will not choke out your engine if you do modify it.
The problem is that the HX35 has an abysmally small wastegate, and does only relieve pressure from the rear 3 cylinders. This is OK for stock fueling, but limits the extra fuel severely. What I usually do is that I drill the divider with the same diameter as the stock wastegate hole, and then ream the wastegate hole to 43% more diameter- effectively doubling the area for the rear cylinder venting, and therefore reducing backpressure on all 6 cylinders. I do also increase the flange thickness of the wastegate housing so that the flapper can move further. (By cutting the shape from a piece of mild steel about 8mm thick)
All this can be done with standard shop tools without any problems.
There was a very nice product called Megamouth that was the bees knee for that application because it removed the restriction from the exhaust gas flow of the open wastegate.
Modifying the stock wastegate or adding a divorced wastegate is the key to success in twins with the HX35 in my opinion and experience.
With a stock turbo without these mods you simply will not get all the exhaust gas through the turbo, and therefore suffer from high backpressure and also not enough energy to drive your primary.
I have run up to an HX55 under the HX35 with those mods and got it to spool nicely (for such a big turbo)
This gave me enough air to really clean up a decently running P-Pumped 24V up to 3.5k rpm in OD converter locked.
(Sorry no dyno runs with this truck, it was a daily driver until it was run off the road..)
Any single turbo that tries to give you good boost at low rpms and spool quickly will have a big downfall higher up and a big single will give you laaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaag.
The "mild" twinning I suggested works from a low factor of compound compressing and just makes the small top turbo get out of the way of the exhaust gas under high load, where the big one is spooled. Naturally you will not have the power and the air of "proper" twins, but rather a big single with better low end manners.
Another way to get where you want would be a VG turbo. If I recall it correctly there was/is a company called fleece that has developed a standalone controller for Holset VGT chargers. I never had one to test and never had any business with them. But I would like to build a set of VG twins nevertheless, but I would love to do this with my own arduino controller. (In what spare time????)
HTH
AlpineRAM
Last edited by AlpineRAM; 12-07-2014 at 04:52 PM. Reason: Adding VG turbo
#21
bluechip diesel top notch customer service and one outstanding warranty 2 yrs unlimited miles. The man will go out of his way for calling after-hours. With this type of service I'd pay anything.
#22
when you get the pump and injectors. You will just need to drive and see what you have and how the truck is running. play with the edge and see.
when it comes time for looking at a air upgrade there are many options out there. see what you got first and post up.
yes i was referring to the turbo with those numbers. many Turbo brand names make turbos with those sizes, different things like extended tips blah blah etc.
I hope I didn't come across to you and seem like your truck is going to be a flat out hot egt scalded ape. it wont it will still be very Daily driven.
when it comes time for looking at a air upgrade there are many options out there. see what you got first and post up.
yes i was referring to the turbo with those numbers. many Turbo brand names make turbos with those sizes, different things like extended tips blah blah etc.
I hope I didn't come across to you and seem like your truck is going to be a flat out hot egt scalded ape. it wont it will still be very Daily driven.
#23
Alpineram...
thanks for all that detailed information. my lifestyle can not afford to peform those activities now. if i did this 15 years ago, i had the time, resources and enthusiasm to do it....no longer is the case.
but great info nonetheless.
Dieselwrks...
thanks for the feedback. there are so many brands that promise the world in performance.
i just saw the Aurora 4000 and Killer B.
still poking internet feeds for information.
thank you gents.
thanks for all that detailed information. my lifestyle can not afford to peform those activities now. if i did this 15 years ago, i had the time, resources and enthusiasm to do it....no longer is the case.
but great info nonetheless.
Dieselwrks...
thanks for the feedback. there are so many brands that promise the world in performance.
i just saw the Aurora 4000 and Killer B.
still poking internet feeds for information.
thank you gents.
#24
Pleasure JJ !
What I need to say is that you will likely be very content with what you get with the pump and injectors- and that it will still be very driveable. It's just that you will not be able to use WOT for any sustained period.
My personal goal is to build stuff that has a kind of linear response to the go pedal and all of the pedal is really usable in the Austrian alps.
Therefore my judgement is very hard on all the packages that are offered, and I know that people can live very happily with tunings that would not satisfy me.
This is because the usage and the expectations are different, but in my opinion it is rather safe to recommend towards a tune that is as reliable, as economical and as idiot-proof as the stock tune.
Anything else will be a tradeoff between factors and you will have to choose for yourself what kind of tradeoff you want.
Since I do not have any personal experience with any turbo you mentioned I will not comment on them. But what I can suggest is that you try to find another "DTRonian" with something like the setup you want to run and ask for a ride and maybe a drive with a truck like you would like to build- and then see if it fits you.
HTH
Markus
What I need to say is that you will likely be very content with what you get with the pump and injectors- and that it will still be very driveable. It's just that you will not be able to use WOT for any sustained period.
My personal goal is to build stuff that has a kind of linear response to the go pedal and all of the pedal is really usable in the Austrian alps.
Therefore my judgement is very hard on all the packages that are offered, and I know that people can live very happily with tunings that would not satisfy me.
This is because the usage and the expectations are different, but in my opinion it is rather safe to recommend towards a tune that is as reliable, as economical and as idiot-proof as the stock tune.
Anything else will be a tradeoff between factors and you will have to choose for yourself what kind of tradeoff you want.
Since I do not have any personal experience with any turbo you mentioned I will not comment on them. But what I can suggest is that you try to find another "DTRonian" with something like the setup you want to run and ask for a ride and maybe a drive with a truck like you would like to build- and then see if it fits you.
HTH
Markus
#26
BAD news.
I had injectors and new HR VP44 put in today. the tech is driving it out of his driveway, ~100 yards, to the street. motor starts blowing oil out of front of truck.
Time for head studs.
Can't believe this! Terrible. i now have to throw in a lot more $ than originally anticipated.
I had injectors and new HR VP44 put in today. the tech is driving it out of his driveway, ~100 yards, to the street. motor starts blowing oil out of front of truck.
Time for head studs.
Can't believe this! Terrible. i now have to throw in a lot more $ than originally anticipated.
#27
BAD news.
I had injectors and new HR VP44 put in today. the tech is driving it out of his driveway, ~100 yards, to the street. motor starts blowing oil out of front of truck.
Time for head studs.
Can't believe this! Terrible. i now have to throw in a lot more $ than originally anticipated.
I had injectors and new HR VP44 put in today. the tech is driving it out of his driveway, ~100 yards, to the street. motor starts blowing oil out of front of truck.
Time for head studs.
Can't believe this! Terrible. i now have to throw in a lot more $ than originally anticipated.
I would make him show me where the leak is................
#28
BAD news.
I had injectors and new HR VP44 put in today. the tech is driving it out of his driveway, ~100 yards, to the street. motor starts blowing oil out of front of truck.
Time for head studs.
Can't believe this! Terrible. i now have to throw in a lot more $ than originally anticipated.
I had injectors and new HR VP44 put in today. the tech is driving it out of his driveway, ~100 yards, to the street. motor starts blowing oil out of front of truck.
Time for head studs.
Can't believe this! Terrible. i now have to throw in a lot more $ than originally anticipated.
A head gasket blowing out and leaking oil not antifreeze....
100 yards... so not even warm yet.. .
I would say go there take a look and take many pictures..
Just my 2c
#29
Blue chip does have great customer service, but you had better pray that when your VP-44 fails, it does so within the 1 year warranty because Blue chip will not budge on their warranty even if it's a few days outside of the year warranty. I paid $1900 for a blue chip, and couldn't even get 14K miles on the pump before it took a dump on me.....as many on here have said, some people can put 100K miles on them, some can't. VP-44's are a crapshoot really, hopefully this one will last you a long time.
#30
I just bought and installed a new bluechip with new computer. Took me a year to decide which. I think the main reason I went with bluechip(besides reputation) is Doug. Dude knows his stuff and spent lots of time with me on the phone (several times) helping me decide. He never tried to upsell me in any way. I figured if he'd spend that much time talking to some shmuck he didn't even know, he would be great after the sale too.
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