Can you let me know how you got the info on the schools and books? am interested in doing the same thing. actually any info on it would be great.

 

Stock injection time is measured in milliseconds. At 2400 rpm it is typically 1.25 milliseconds for 25 crank degrees of injection duration

 

I am looking at putting a van aaken box on.
But don't want to change any durations???? I heard somewhere that you can have a failure sometimes....
The last thing I need or want is more horsepower, but I wouldn't mind better fuel economy. That's why I am looking at the van aaken. Is that the same thing that is referred to as a wire???

 

Don,
This is actually a 6 cylinder pump.. but must be a lower HP application... I don't remember the size of the plungers.. (The 6 lobes on the cam ring..) I think its used up to about 250-275hp.. but on a 6.8L engine.
Bryan

 

Cool! yes, are correct. The 2 piston pump will work on 4 or 6. I assumed it was for the pee wee.

 

there is a bosch warehouse about 47 miles from my house and i took a trip out to the warehouse and that is were i filled out the paperwork to get school info in the mail. They send you a pamplet in the mail with a list of schools and the prices of each. there are schools all over so you will have to look in your local area for info. I am blessed with the fact of the warehouse being so close because i can get parts faster and cheaper... due to being local......

 

So which parts typically fail in the VP44 pump? I heard that lately there is more electronic failures than actual mechanical failures.

 

Reports are saying that the electronic computer is failing due to repeated heat and cooling cycles, and not like the early version with mechanical problems, however UPS had a modified elctronics much like the blue chip vp that is proving to be very reliable

 

You will hear the term "Fed-Ex Pump" used when discussing replacement VPs.
From what I've been told, it's the standard mechanical components coupled with better, stronger, and vibration isolated electronic components for better survivability.

 

It is true that I have a 95 dodge, along with a 4020 JDdiesel , Lincoln 250D welder, DT466 international, Diesel 4x4 backhoe, 3 vw diesels. However I am going to buy a couple of Dodge diesel at the end of the summer. Or perhaps a Ford and a Dodge, anyway I have been told to how to spend my money before on transmission ect, I like the guys attitude, and the FACT that he is serving in the armed services, I am willing the give him a chance.
I thank you guys for giving me advice, but I wont to give the guy a chance, if he makes a mistake I can live with it. Life is all about choices. Perhaps he will have a shop of his own some day or at least try. Jimk

 

has anyone tried to run a pipe or hose to the vp-44 electronics package kinda like a ram air intake to keep it cool? or better yet, scince i don't use the air conditioner...

 

Ther ahve been extensive threads written about using fue coolers prior to the vp, using heat shrink on the electronic body of the vp, guys like you said running air ram to blow air on the vp..... but no one has the exact solid proof as to which one works or why.Like shovelhead said vibration also plays a huge roll, this is whya lot of lft pumps fail also, the famous cummins shake we all love also kills many bolt on items

 

I was going to stay away from this post, but I must chime in on the electroncics aspect only.

Vibration is the big culprit with most solid state elctronics. And there is not a cheap fix. There is a process called "reflo", I know a retired professor that developed it. Apparrently, when space vehicles come back from orbit, they shake nearly to pieces, and many electronic parts temporarily fail...They have always had to make their electronics bulletproof. He explained to me what reflo was, and how they did it, but I didn't pay attention. I can only remember it is expensive to do and that is the reason he only services space and aerospace. But he says there are a lot of knock offs that try to duplicate him also.

In my studio, the only parts that fail are due to heat or misuse, because there is no vibration to speak of. When things are made right, and the instructions are followed (with respect to space for cooling, etc.,) things do not fail. You can nearly always trace a failure to someone turning something on before plugging something else in,..someone placing things too close together without the proper clearance for cooling,..someone using something for other than the intended purpose,..someone trying to get "more" out of something that they are supposed to.

The only one out of the above that jives...is the vibration thing. Nothing else makes sense...However, I have never seen one in person so definitely will say it's just a guess. I know there was a particular laptop (presario 2700) that they made where there was a problem with the power jack on many of them. (this is not a repairable part...they just replace the complete motherboard for way too much money). I took mine apart when it happened and saw that whoever was running the soldering assembly line in china for that particular thing had forgotton to have them solderall four of the pins on the power jack...one was left in the hole with no solder....so no matter what, sooner or later, nearly every one is going to fail that came off that assembly line.) I resoldered mine for free. And a half hour time.

I am still so ticked off at compaq I have not purchaced anotyher one of their laptops.

Anyway, stuff like that can happen with ANY electronic thing. Thats' why I'd like to see the electronics of a VP44. People do awfully stupid stuff sometime when they are in their little tiny micro world of soldering one tiny pin to the next...not knowing if it's going on a truck, or a fisher price toy.

By the way, I don't EVER remember an electronic failure that you couldn't "smell" the failed part if you looked hard enough. They always smell like burned electronics..... Something gets pushed to hard and there is a short or an arc and kaboom.

 

well i have an idea... on big huge servers in the military we run die-electric silicone which we would literally stick like 2 - 3 inchs of it globbed over the entire circuit board so the fans that cool the system dont voberate something loose or wear othe connections out.....this solved our problem