Valve springs....
#3
i thought it was possible, as long as you remember which piston is at TDC... http://www.cumminsracing.com/images/...ting%20005.jpg. looks like the valves can sit on the crown in the TDC position.
just my observations, but i'll let someone who's done this chime in...
just my observations, but i'll let someone who's done this chime in...
#4
go to post #26:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ht=valve+float
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ht=valve+float
#5
MMkay-- next question:
How can I know when different cylinders are at TDC? Just crank the engine with the valve cover off and wait until it LOOKs like the valves are closed?
There has to be a better way. Is TDC #1 marked on damper? I dunno if there are any timing marks at all on the damper (I thought they were all on the gears inside) and I don't want to pull the gear cover just to do this.
Justin
How can I know when different cylinders are at TDC? Just crank the engine with the valve cover off and wait until it LOOKs like the valves are closed?
There has to be a better way. Is TDC #1 marked on damper? I dunno if there are any timing marks at all on the damper (I thought they were all on the gears inside) and I don't want to pull the gear cover just to do this.
Justin
#6
heres what they say about finding TDC for valve lash... https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...n&onlynewfaq=1
#7
Cool! Thanks. I'm not sure how ambitious I am with tackling a lot of this stuff.
The barring tool would be useful for lot of things. I can imagine turning over a 5.9 by hand can be pretty tough-- that's a lot of compression!
The barring tool would be useful for lot of things. I can imagine turning over a 5.9 by hand can be pretty tough-- that's a lot of compression!
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#8
yeah, ive tried the alternator option and it was worthless...the serpentine belt just slipped! big surprise!!
i think the barring tool might be worth the money...
#9
I just set my valves last night. you can easily turn the engine over with a 22mm socket with 1/2" ratchet on the alternator nut. it will ONLY turn the engine over backwards though.
and the running mate pistons 1/6 2/5 3/4 like was said before you can do the valve springs on each pair when they;re at TDC. for the old 24valver start with the inj pump gear drive set to TDC, just like you're going to set the valves. then you mark out 120 degree marks around the damper marking off the inj gear TDC. bingo you have 2/5 and 3/4 TDC. I'd use the factory valve spring tool if at all possible, it looks slick. 4 at a time.
and the running mate pistons 1/6 2/5 3/4 like was said before you can do the valve springs on each pair when they;re at TDC. for the old 24valver start with the inj pump gear drive set to TDC, just like you're going to set the valves. then you mark out 120 degree marks around the damper marking off the inj gear TDC. bingo you have 2/5 and 3/4 TDC. I'd use the factory valve spring tool if at all possible, it looks slick. 4 at a time.
#11
When I do stuff like that I usually pull the injectors and do not have nayx compression issues while turning it over and a short piece of wire makes it extremely easy to check that the piston you want to work on is at TDC. If you try it with the companion method you can still be some degrees off (doesn't matter for valve lash with a stock cam) and this can let the valves drop just far enough to get you into troubles installing the springs.
I must suggest that while ou are at it to install a new set of valve shaft seals.
HTH
AlpineRAM
I must suggest that while ou are at it to install a new set of valve shaft seals.
HTH
AlpineRAM