Valet swtich for twins
#1
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Valet switch for twins
With the new dyno numbers in
I think its time for a valet switch for towing, I know how a switch works and i know what the concept of it is, problem is should i just get one from PDR? or is it suggested that I just use a valve from the wastegate line to the top of the AFC
What do u guys think?
Thanks guys!
Rick
I think its time for a valet switch for towing, I know how a switch works and i know what the concept of it is, problem is should i just get one from PDR? or is it suggested that I just use a valve from the wastegate line to the top of the AFC
What do u guys think?
Thanks guys!
Rick
#3
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just use a solenoid valve that blocks the boost signal to the AFC. Drill a veeery small hole in the air fitting out of the solenoid valve to bleed pressure off once the valve is closed.
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I used a manual on off air switch off a of big truck. On the supply side I tied the boost gauge on to it so only one extra line is running into the truck. They have a bleed for the off side.
#5
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I think I still have my old one laying around. I had it on for about 2 weeks. I didn't use it because I run small injectors and get my hp from the pump. On the Valet I only made 140 hp. I was afraid that either the wife of i was going to get run over pulling out onto the main road. If you want to see what valet is like on your truck, pull the boost line off your afc and put a bolt into the line. Then drive it around. If you are running large injectors it's not bad, or if you grind a plate profile into the afc arm it will allow you to have a bit of fueling.
#6
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but this one idea keeps pondering in my head,
Couldnt one use an air regulator, that will only let through some amount of air, then depending on how you set the regulator (in the cab ), the afc foot will move forward only a little, or full, or none, or however you want it!
say if you set it it 10 psi, and you have a stiff spring, i dont think it'll move forward completly!
What do you guys think?
cuz I have the same problem on my free bombed 98, in valet mode, it has about less power then stock, cuz i have the afc moved back, for low end smoke!
#7
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I have cut some on the foot of the afc and run 370 injectors. In valet it runs around 40 lbs of boost which is just right for trailer pulling. I thought about the pressure regulator but sure do like the instant on with the toggle switch. I got everything slid all the way forward and the spring pretty loose, the right foot has all the control. In valet it pulls pretty hard but lays down in the mid to upper end.
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#8
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I think we are talking about putting a pressure regulator in the line, and then putting the solenoid valve in line to bypass the regulator, that way you can have your cake and eat it too. You would see partial boost with it in valet, and with the valet off, you would see full boost. your afc would open partially, giving you maybe 200 horsepower, and full horsepower would give you full afc travel. that was a really good idea. I think we need to make a thread on this mod alone. It would be called ultimate valet. how about the real ultimate valet of a I/P regulator controlled from the cab, and you could turn it up and down with a variable resistor mounted on your dash. we could really shut the 24 valve guys up about in cab tuneability with that. it would be cheaper than a box too. I just looked it up in mcmaster carr, and it is 270 dollars for a 3-120 psi regulator. the variable resistor is no more than 10 bucks.
#9
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I don't use the valet unless I'm pulling a trailer or loaning the truck to someone. I have tried it before but catch myself shutting it off every time. It's kinda like a drug. I do get some of what you are talking about with the cut foot and the way the spring is adjusted loose.
#10
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but i want the incab conveniance, as well, so I think PDR might be the way to go..
PS Ph4tty, thanks!
Silvano, what do u mean for your setup?
Rick
#11
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but i never turn it off, cuz tranny doesnt even shift right at WOT with it!
While running with it off, when i turn it on then i hear a PSSSSSt and the smoke is there! and the power.
Now ive been thinking about buying a small pressure regulator like smoke_pedal said and use it instead of the air valve, so i get variable afc stop. turn it from in the cab, (like a fuel box, that'd be sweet!)
#13
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the pressure regulator I was talking about is called an i/p regulator. it takes a voltage signal and the higher the voltage, the higher the pressure.
most small regulators will go from 0-50 psi in one turn. you could use a **** with a pointer, and put a back on it, and mount the regulator behind the dash. put like a green yellow and red circle behind it to show safe temps for towing, safe temps for hot rodding, and insane fueling.
most small regulators will go from 0-50 psi in one turn. you could use a **** with a pointer, and put a back on it, and mount the regulator behind the dash. put like a green yellow and red circle behind it to show safe temps for towing, safe temps for hot rodding, and insane fueling.
#14
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the pressure regulator I was talking about is called an i/p regulator. it takes a voltage signal and the higher the voltage, the higher the pressure.
most small regulators will go from 0-50 psi in one turn. you could use a **** with a pointer, and put a back on it, and mount the regulator behind the dash. put like a green yellow and red circle behind it to show safe temps for towing, safe temps for hot rodding, and insane fueling.
most small regulators will go from 0-50 psi in one turn. you could use a **** with a pointer, and put a back on it, and mount the regulator behind the dash. put like a green yellow and red circle behind it to show safe temps for towing, safe temps for hot rodding, and insane fueling.
also i think the 2nd would be cheaper, and was what i was refering to.
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