Using Electric cooling fans
#18
Last I heard, a stock fan, when fully locked, takes 20HP, and moves 10,000CFM. (PM DTR Member infidel)
I have 3 fans on my truck, but, of course, the truck isn't running yet.
I have 3 16" fans, each moving 1,300CFM through a typical 4 core radiator. I WILL be towing heavy (45' Goosenck @ 6,500Lbs empty), and WILL be racing.
What I wanted was a "snappier" engine, faster cool down, and colder A/C. I guess I'm about to find out how the truck tows with them.
I'll be moving 3,900CFM. Two behind the radiator, and one in front of the A/C condensor.
I'm also running a 180* t-stat, BUT, once the T-stat is open, it depends on how much cooling capacity your truck has. I'm running a lower temp t-stat because of some benefits I have heard rumoured. (better MPG, better response, quieter motor, but on Auto's, hotter tranny temps)
If it's a 160* or 200* t-stat,, if you are overloading (becuase you are producing to much heat, or not removing enough heat) you will overheat.
Merrick
I have 3 fans on my truck, but, of course, the truck isn't running yet.
I have 3 16" fans, each moving 1,300CFM through a typical 4 core radiator. I WILL be towing heavy (45' Goosenck @ 6,500Lbs empty), and WILL be racing.
What I wanted was a "snappier" engine, faster cool down, and colder A/C. I guess I'm about to find out how the truck tows with them.
I'll be moving 3,900CFM. Two behind the radiator, and one in front of the A/C condensor.
I'm also running a 180* t-stat, BUT, once the T-stat is open, it depends on how much cooling capacity your truck has. I'm running a lower temp t-stat because of some benefits I have heard rumoured. (better MPG, better response, quieter motor, but on Auto's, hotter tranny temps)
If it's a 160* or 200* t-stat,, if you are overloading (becuase you are producing to much heat, or not removing enough heat) you will overheat.
Merrick
#19
I was banned per my own request for speaking the name Pelosi
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,908
Likes: 0
From: Bristol Michigan
None of the fan maunfacturers recommend REPLACING your stock fan in a heavier duty diesel application. They suggest only SUPPLEMENTING your stock fan. Even if they could pull enuff air, you wouldn't know it if one gave out until your gauges start to shoot up. Then, you might get stopped in time to take action.
#21
MCummins, you brought up a VERY important point about a fan being in front of the A/C condensor. If (whoever) changes out the stock setup for electric then you have to make sure to wire the fans so that they come on with the A/C or you will be looking at a very expensive A/C repair bill.
#23
I was banned per my own request for speaking the name Pelosi
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,908
Likes: 0
From: Bristol Michigan
Originally posted by jaconst
what about electric draw with so many electric fans and the grid heater and evrything??
what about electric draw with so many electric fans and the grid heater and evrything??
#24
we discuss on the camaro forums occassionally.
in a gas car, if the fans are electronically controlled by a thermostat, then the thermo MUST be set above the temp at which the engine operates at driving speed. (that's where the lower thermostat temp comes into play, the road/air cooling plus the temp at which coolant is allowed to circulate )
IOW, the fan can't run while the car is moving, or "fan wash" will create a wall of non-moving air in front of the radiator (if the car is moving ~45mph, and the fan is pulling at ~45mph, the fan is acutally pushing air backwards, with no flow through the radiator). I've heard it called "Stall out" by some guys, dunno what that refers too.
that's the purpose of the clutch, to let the fan freewheel when road (airflow) speed is higher than fan speed. that's why high load towing = high rpm (fan speed) and low road speed (less air flow) makes our huge fans desirable, because they can prolly flow faster than air slow towing speeds?
i would think in one of our rigs, you need 4 inputs: Thermo control ( for when truck is driving empty) Manual control ( when towing below ~45 ), and AC input, and a timer for when you shut the truck off.
the thermo control is $19 at Advance, put one in kids camaro last week.
got an extra one if anyone wants pics, just a temp bulb put somewhere, and a box that shorts out when get right temp (adjustable by set screw). Put a relay on it, and control whatever.
and 4 fans off an IROC or LT1 should work, long & wide, 2 in front, 2 behind.
i hate running my AC, loud as crap.
in a gas car, if the fans are electronically controlled by a thermostat, then the thermo MUST be set above the temp at which the engine operates at driving speed. (that's where the lower thermostat temp comes into play, the road/air cooling plus the temp at which coolant is allowed to circulate )
IOW, the fan can't run while the car is moving, or "fan wash" will create a wall of non-moving air in front of the radiator (if the car is moving ~45mph, and the fan is pulling at ~45mph, the fan is acutally pushing air backwards, with no flow through the radiator). I've heard it called "Stall out" by some guys, dunno what that refers too.
that's the purpose of the clutch, to let the fan freewheel when road (airflow) speed is higher than fan speed. that's why high load towing = high rpm (fan speed) and low road speed (less air flow) makes our huge fans desirable, because they can prolly flow faster than air slow towing speeds?
i would think in one of our rigs, you need 4 inputs: Thermo control ( for when truck is driving empty) Manual control ( when towing below ~45 ), and AC input, and a timer for when you shut the truck off.
the thermo control is $19 at Advance, put one in kids camaro last week.
got an extra one if anyone wants pics, just a temp bulb put somewhere, and a box that shorts out when get right temp (adjustable by set screw). Put a relay on it, and control whatever.
and 4 fans off an IROC or LT1 should work, long & wide, 2 in front, 2 behind.
i hate running my AC, loud as crap.
#25
Marine and Big Blue, I understand the Horton uses an electromagnetic clutch and costs a bunch of money. Just seems to make more sense than messing with a bunch of electric fans since it will give the results people seem to be looking for. I know the big rigs use a setup like this.
On another note, has anyone looked into the third generation fans? I know the pcm controls the fluid coupling in the fan clutch, if it fits it wouldn't be that hard to make it backwards compatible.
On another note, has anyone looked into the third generation fans? I know the pcm controls the fluid coupling in the fan clutch, if it fits it wouldn't be that hard to make it backwards compatible.
#26
Originally posted by Steve Roseman
Marine and Big Blue, I understand the Horton uses an electromagnetic clutch and costs a bunch of money. Just seems to make more sense than messing with a bunch of electric fans since it will give the results people seem to be looking for. I know the big rigs use a setup like this.
Marine and Big Blue, I understand the Horton uses an electromagnetic clutch and costs a bunch of money. Just seems to make more sense than messing with a bunch of electric fans since it will give the results people seem to be looking for. I know the big rigs use a setup like this.
Mike
#29
If you use a thermostat on the fans, the grid heater and fans will never be on at the same time.
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